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Had a question I don't understand. It doesn't look like the R# numbers for each resistor match from your trace to the PCB numbering. is there a reason for that?

Not that I know of. I originally posted this over on the PedalPcb forum. I think I was comparing it to the first half of the Paragon board that PedalPCB sells so I lined it up with his to note any differences. I only used the first half of the circuit but the two sides did trace identically in mine. The most notable thing for me was that the high gain mod is just changing a resistor out. So when I get my next one (which I definitely will because Mike makes a great pedal at a great price) I'll likely get the standard and update the resistor myself if I feel like I need it.

Edit: Here's a link to the OG PedalPcb thread. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/prince-of-tone-pauper-question.3278/

Personal Update: Looks like the caps in the signal path may have drifted so far out of spec that they're filtering out the signal entirely.

A buddy of mine brought me a vintage phase 90 (6 single opamp version). I passes signal just fine but the phase signal gives me nothing. I've checked all of the ICs and they each are getting powered properly (9V on pin 7 and 0V on pin 4). I pulled out the audio probe and I noticed that the signal gets attenuated after the first capacitor and then comes out of the input buffer incredibly weak. From their I think the simple filtering in the rest of the audio path kills the signal off. Any phaser folks had experience with this?
I'm getting the appropriate 5.1V off of the Vref so I don't think that's an issue. I've been using the Electrosmash phase 90 analysis page to help me sort through the signal path.

I actually tried out a 680pF in parallel with a 100pF in my pedalPCB Pauper (Prince of Tone) and it sounded really close. Adds a nice midrange emphasis and cuts down on noise but it wasn't the most in depth test (looper into the pedal while putting the cap in and out of circuit repeatedly).

I hadn't thought to check before now but C12 is a cap between lugs 2 and 3 of the drive pot. I don't know if the optional refers to the cap or the resistor that's right there (it's R5 on the board).

Yes it does. High gain side is the same chip (I believe) just with a big H painted over it for some reason.

Here's a gut shot. My phone can't get close up shots so I don't have good ones of the diodes.

Hey everyone, my name finally came up on the KoT waitlist and I got mine in the other week. Naturally I pulled it apart to see what the famed high gain mod actually was. Turns out the drive pot is the same value as the standard but the resistor in the feedback loop changes values.

I'm attaching the schematic I came up with from tracing mine. Certain resistors in each side where carbon comp as well so I've noted that in the schematic with CC.

Hope some folks find this informative. This community has been super helpful to me so I wanted to pass this info along.

Edit: Updated the schematic to include the serial number, IC value, and fixed the clipping diodes sections.

TrueTone 1Spot CS-12 https://amzn.to/2XFB7xe.

It has options for 12V, 18v and a 9V AC. All outputs can handle up to 500ma, even the ones labeled as 100mA, provided you stay under 2.1A overall. Customer support were the ones that explained that to me when I asked about a multiple high current pedal setup. I like mine so much that I bought a CS7 for a smaller board that I have yet to build.

Note: The link provided is an amazon affiliate link in case that's something you care about.

That's crushing to hear. Praying for you guys.

Here's a pic of my little guy Lando. He's 8 months and has a minor heart condition but he loves being around people more than anything so it doesn't slow him down.

In this gain configuration the gain knob adjusts the gain of two stages simultaneously. The first is a non-inverting and the second is an inverting configuration (a lot like the marshall bluesbreaker). The gain pot acts as a voltage divider rather than a variable resistor. So as you increase the gain of one you decrease the gain of the other. I need to update this in the blog post so thanks for pointing it out.

All that to say you'll need to swap out the entire pot with a switch rather than just a single lug.

I'm pulling this info from Aion's analysis of the bluesbreaker (which this shares topology with). https://aionelectronics.com/project/cerulean-bluesbreaker-overdrive/

What's the point of the soft on/off other than being cool? Does it eliminate popping?

That always confuses me a bit. Rather than small-medium-big, DDMMYY, or big-medium-small YYMMDD, you guys go medium-small-big MMDDYY.

Date formatting is super confusing when you're trying to book hotels in another country for an early date in the month.

It's even worse in programming where we use number of milliseconds since Jan 1, 1970. Then we convert that to a readable date and send it somewhere else which has to convert it to its own time zone (which would have been easier if it was still in ms). I've spent a significant amount of my career just changing the formatting of dates.

This is really cool. Do you have a drilling template that goes along with this top mount scheme?

I'd love to see a multi gain stage od (like a reduced gain version of the Friedman pedals) with a unique tone stack (3 band gyrator or baxandall). A cab sim would also be sweet as an add on for pedals like that.

Is the nut slotted poorly or does the neck get oddly thicker after the first fret?