Messages

Hi Kevin,

testing has more or less various results, all in a closer range around 15V, ~14.97 to 15.04V (positive pad) and -14.98.to ~ -15.04V (negative pad), varying in different tests.

Limit LED doesn't light off if comp switch turned off. It is always on - indipendend from toggle switch position.

Have exchanged both CA3080AE and put in the ones from the other pedal, which has an equal effect

Bypass LED is still always on too

Thank you,

U4U

Hi, I always use 2N5089 instead for distortion or overdrice pedals, if 2N5088 are used, but I wouldn't on a delay! 

..works now, had some issues with the switchcraft jacks! Great device, but not half as good as my Hardwire Supernatural, of course, but very different sounding!

Hi, just build a second one, but had some issues with this one. Channel switching works, but both channels produce ugliest distored flat sound! Soldering was done very clean, no visible short circuit...

Issues
1. Bypass works, but LED is always on
2. Limit LED is always on
3. Flat distored sound on both channels

ICs:
IC4 - IC9, IC12: RC4558P
IC1: LF356N
IC2, IC13: LM741CN
IC10-IC11: CA3080AE

Semiconductors as described and most of the parts were ordered from Mouser, but replaced some 10% Wima caps mentioned in the parts sheet with 5% Wima caps. The  distored sound seems to be an issue depending on the switchcraft jacks, which obviously do not work properly. They seem to offer some space and the plugs seem to be shaky this way which results in flat and distored sound.


Maybe someone runs into equal issues or has an idea what happens here. I have used a plain enclosure for the first build and a black enclosure sold by aion for this build.

Thanks a lot

U4U

Hi there, thanx a lot, I will step into this deeper on weekend, it sounds strange in some ways too, the more I play around with it the more I didn't like the overall sound! Regards U4U   

Thx, wiring is standard using aion Micro 3PDT Bypass, soldering is very well done. I'm using only film caps, 100nf are Wima, 470pf Roederstein, rest of the caps was made by Kemet, I use Xicon resistors, CX1 and RX1 are not soldered to the board

U4U 

Hi there, have build the Creamy Dreamer with a four pot configuration and 8x 1N914 diodes stack. The tone control acts a bit strange. Full output only with full left or full right setting, in the middle it degrades volume to nearly no output. Maybe someone has an idea what happens here?!

Thx

U4U

Hi, just put it together this weekend, used the Opto-Tron for the switch, only bypass works, got a pulsating or throbbing noise much like a heartbeat running the effect, no effect. I'm using a white H11F1 for the Opto-Tron. Same noise running it with or without the 78L05. The BTDR-H3 seems to be the newer version. It's size is different  from the BTDR-H2 I have. Changed the H11F1 into a black one and tried another white one, same issue, changed the TL072, same issue, changed the 78L05 to one made by Motorola, same issue!  Any ideas? Thank you for help! U4U

Thx 4 reply, got it, as I had written and posted an idea comes to my mind. There's an issue with the ground pad for the LED. Now it works. Thx again, U4U

Hi there, put the thing together, but the LED doesn't work. Changed resistor for LED, put a new LED in, same result. I have no idea. Someone has the same experience? Thx U4U

Hi there, finished my Echoplex preamp based on Ares PCB by Aion. Above all the requirement was not to use any paint or etching or other technique using chemicals. All the black and white stuff was done using a simple cutting machine and vinyl film.

U4U

Hi there, I'm just building an advanced pre amp now, but some of the pots (2.5 kA) are only avalable with solder lugs for wire. As I do not like to use wire here (they should be PCB mount angeled) I'm thinking about additional solder lugs screwed or soldered to the original solder lugs. These additional solder lugs look like ebay 201858517728. There are many different types available, but I'm absolutly not sure which I should use. I do not like to buy  severeal different types. Maybe someone has experiences in doing it like I intend to and could be of some advice here.

Thank you,

U4U

...I'm searching this forum. Seems that it could be an issue because of the MACRON problem. I'm rather pissed, as I spend a few bucks on these

Hi there, had it on hold for month because of less free time. The point is, using the range switch, the LED light on while selected right (down setting?) and no light was seen while select left setting (up). Setting it to the right a high annoying tone can be heard.

Thank you, U4U

Hi, thank you for reply, board OUT is connected to PCB out on switch, board SW is connected to SW on switch. U4U