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One interesting feature to note: all three clipping LEDs will light up with dynamic playing, but it requires very loud volume. With a line level signal this was a lot easier than guitar. So it would be possible to wire those lights up externally and create a little light show

Thanks!

I didn't even try true bypass. I usually prefer buffered pedals. I'd say go for it, it looks like it wouldn't be difficult to test both options, or to permanently change from one to the other

Just got in my PCBs and put together the Mood ring. I drilled my enclosure a few days ago, so it went together rather quickly. My pots aren't lined up very straight, one day I'll get a drill press to make them better.

I went with the buffered bypass setup and included the green LED in D2.

I thought I had all the resistors and caps on hand, but of course wound up missing a few. The resistors I wired two in series to get the values I needed, but I was missing a 10pf cap. RadioShack had a ceramic grab bag and I think I used the right value, but there was no index on the package to tell me for sure. The cap is socketed, labeled "10", does this sound correct?

Aside from that, the only real snag I ran into was the orientation of D1. Shouldn't the square pad be on the opposite side of the stripe? This caused me to doubt all the LEDs, wondering if I had those backwards, but thankfully I was able to figure it out by referencing the schematic and the PCB trace guide to verify I had it all correct. Props for the excellent documentation. 

I labeled the controls temporarily, using
D=delay time, FB=feedback, T=tone, M=mix.
The mix/ring knob seems to increase delay time and feedback as well, or maybe it just makes the effect more obvious. It sounds wonderful on guitar, though I intended to use it primarily for a drum machine. But I think the delay of the effect may make it better suited for guitar.

Putting together the Total Recall tomorrow. Hope it goes as well as this did!

True true, a socket sounds like a great idea. Thanks!

I ordered parts ahead of time using the Mouser cart inside the build PDF, and a few components were out of stock. Of course, I managed to pick one capacitor that's totally the wrong lead spacing, C4 (1n2 film).

Looking through all my 1n caps, the capacitance setting on my multimeter can't seem to get a true reading on values that small. Most of my tighter tolerance ones read about 1.35nf. The actual 1n2 5% cap I got reads 1.53nf. I found one multilayer ceramic cap that's reading at 1.41nf, would this be close enough? It looks like C4 is filtering between parts A and B of IC1, one of the 4558s.

Is it worth it to order another 1n2 cap, or would the cap I found (whose true value, I'm guessing, is around 1n1) be good enough?

Tyyyyyyyyyy

I'm not sure how I avoided the purge, but I might as well make 1 post to avoid the sequel, Purge 2