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This is the top side.  Wish I could provide a clearer pic of the bottom.  I could clip the bottom three leads to lift up the pot....


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Solder side on the other side.  This side is where the pad is gone 9 to 12 o'clock.  I couldn't have picked a worse spot to do this. 


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i think it's not okay... I tried the thing where you wrap a circle of lead wire in the shape of the solder pad and soldered it.  It's a dual pot... and the trouble area is an area I can't see... looks okay but I'm not convinced.  Spent a bunch of $ on this pedal already.  Could you go into more detail on how to do the continuity test?  It's a 100kC dual... univibe...

got frustrated while desoldering and removed 9 to 12 oclock of a solder pad on the non solder side... everything is still intact.  The solder side is fine.
Dumb question I know...

got the switch wired right...
I thought I got a bad tube tube though... both plates are at 16.5v w both 500k trimmers set at least the lowest. 
Cut and saturation knobs do nothing.  very little drive... any ideas?  gonna buy a new tube.  the one I got was from ebay and looks a little janky..
Also, does the 100pf (C5) cap have to be silver mica?  Overlooked this detail when populating and put a ceramic one in there.

Is it okay to wire the switch like this? 


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when you're done soldering for the day... never did this.  Had success all these years without properly maintaining my soldering iron... there's a bunch of stuff online about tip maintenance... How do you go about it and should I spend $70 on a Weller iron...

thought so... thanks again

These 4 pads seem impossible to solder independently... are they intended to be soldered together? 



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Thanks all for your time and input. 
I'm an idiot and didn't wire the tap tempo pads to bypass the tap... Working now


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Lug seven of your stomp is the out to your board and 8 should go to the output jack.


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Woah.. right?  Not according to Bean's diagram...


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I did use ceramic 1uf's instead of film.  This has never been an issue before. Never used those style trims either. 


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But pedal is not working, can I assume it's something to do with wiring and or bypass switch.. no signal when bypassed, but signal comes through when engaged.  With a VERY slight effect signal. 


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pedal works fine, sounds great... all voltages are on point.  Except on bypass there is a high pitched squeal.  Turning the clock trim up all the way the squeal goes away.  when using the "tail" bypass there is zero squeal.  I'm cool with just leaving the effect bypass on all the time and using the tail as the bypass.  but I imagine something is amiss.  any input?