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Awesome!!! That's what I was thinking. Thanks so much

I would leave R-12 off of the main PCB and run jumper wires from it's spot to a toggle switch. Use a DPDT on/off/on toggle and connect the jumpers to the center lugs.  Also connect the 422K resistor (R-12) across those lugs as well. Then put your two pairs of clipping diodes on the top and bottom pairs of lugs. The 422K resistor will always be in the circuit just like normal. With the toggle in the up or down position you'll be adding either pair of soft clipping diodes. In the center/off position the soft clipping diodes will be out of the circuit and it'll be just like stock.

Hey all,
I'm trying to add a Soft-Clipping mod in my Refractor Klone, but don't know how to wire it on to the PCB. Could you help me figure this out?

I've attached a photo of the PCB and what I think is the relevant part of the schematic. For reference, here's the post that shows the soft clipping mod:
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2014/05/klon-centaur-with-optional-bass-control.html

That would be simplest. Shipping is 15-20 bucks.

Thanks fellas, if any of you are interested I'm open to swirling boxes for others.

This is my first Orange Compressor build. The PCB is modelled after the Henretta version, which is made to fit an LB case... hense the footswitch jumpers. I'm also digging the LED lenses as an aesthetic touch. I used an old General Guitar Gadgets enclosure I had lying around. Not a fan of the hardware spacing, but it'll do.

This is my 5th swirl and I more or less follow the dragonfly swirl method with some adaptations:
1. Prime Coat before.
2. Play around with different acrylic / water viscosities. Too thick and it'll dry like a blob, too thin and it'll look like it's eroded (which does look cool in a way)
3. GENTLY wet sand after 24 hrs, just to even things out.
4. 1-3 decent coats of clear to bring enhance shine and create an illusion of depth.
5. Finish with envirotex. The last step actually brings out the best in the swirl, makes it incredibly durable, and gives an smooth glassy finish on top.
* The baseline acrylic layer doesn't dry super fast so if you aren't happy don't be afraid to run it over some water an wipe the paint to and start again.

I need time to see if this beats out my guitarpcb Ross clone, for now I think the Ross edges it out in terms of flexibility.

Looks great inside and out! The soldering job on the PCB in particular is quite impressive! 

Thanks!!! I don't ace a desoldering pump or wick with me so I had to be extra slow and careful, haha

welcome to 1590A club! 

Thanks! It's been a blast!

These mini-builds are getting addicting! This is  second pedal of my mini-pedalboard project.  The  Fatpants (Echoplex Pre) Booster runs at 18V and it gives a nice authoritative boost. The added fat switch gives a nice extra bit of girth and at stock it's a good flat boost. If you want a good clean but meaty booster this'll do you right

I went with a textured matte black enclosure with an aluminum nod as a slight tip of the hat to an actual EP-1 unit.

The iRig interface and a makeshift breadboard circuit tester have been invaluable while away from my actual work bench.

Could be. I'd check components and solder bridges in the pcb as well.

I don't think I've seen those mini DC jacks before. They look pretty interesting, where did you get them?

Check the Babyboard build guide. There's a product number for Mouser.

Thanks man! The backplate is lined with electrical tape.

Which compressor and octaver are you using? I'm shopping around for small pcb versions of those.

Good job!  If you don't have some in there already, add a piece of insulating material between pcb and lid.

I started doing these for the same reason and pretty much the same fx.

Changed things up a bit since then, mostly stuck wah, compressor, od, delay. Sometimes a phase 90 instead of wah, or octaver or riot instead before od.

Hard to beat for ease of transport and flexibility.

Sweet!!! Looks clean man!

 This one's a long time coming. I'm working on a micro pedalboard and finished this one up. I wanted to go the micro build route rather than a combo build to allow for routing flexibility. The plan is a fuzz (with buffer), OD, Rat, and Delay.

I followed Madbean's "Baby Board" guide, which was helpful since it mounts the LED post on the top left corner of the 3pdt. Also, compact jacks were a must, as was a mini dc jack. Anything larger would have me drilling holes far too large to allow for pcb clearance. I'm traveling so I had to make due with only black hookup wire, that proved to be a chore whilst troubleshooting in such a small space!

That's awesome!

Thanks dude!