Messages

Ya know, I can't say what opamp sounds best.  But I know from experience that, no matter how much you cuss, an 808 circuit will absolutely refuse to work without a chip installed in the socket

i literally laughed out loud a little. 

do you still get hum if you roll your volume all the way down or does it stay constant regardless of the guitar's volume?

i have built a few neutrinos and they all hum past 12 o'clock with my single coil guitars, just as my lovepedal does. i think it may be just the nature of the beast. however they don't hum so much with bucker's.

what emg's are you rocking?

i made an offer for $8 per item and paid $22 after shipping for 2 pounds of solder.

I've about to need some more solder and this seems like the best deal I've seen. It's usually $30+ a pound!
How is this solder working for you? Does it melt easily? The solder GGG provides I can never get a clear shiny joint with. Not sure if it really matters though.

update:
i used it today and i like it.  it is super thin and took a little time to get used to, but i think i am really gonna like and 2 pounds of kester for $22 is a steal

i don't know if this is helpful, but it be might if anyone else searching the forum later. i bought a few ICL7660SCPA chips from digi-key and their shipping was reasonable and very fast.

You guys ever see this?

i watched that whole series a while back. i thought the tests were a joke, and people mostly liked what ever pedal was a little louder. also i would guess the opamp choice would have more effect in some circuits than others.

i'm not sure about the solder i just ordered it, but it is kester 63/37 so i am assuming it will flow nicely and kester is known to be clean. also the small diameter will help it melt easily in my experience.
i can give you an update when it arrives next week.

i wouldn't worry about shinny joints as long you aren't having any issues. also make sure you don't disturb your pbc or what ever you are soldering until it hardens and your joint should be nice and pretty. using stand for my pcb's has helped me with this immensely.

i got solder here. (.020 may be a little thin but hey it seemed like a pretty good deal to me.)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320693670317&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_922

i made an offer for $8 per item and paid $22 after shipping for 2 pounds of solder.

over at BYOC until it's GONE. TC15 kit for $300 + shipping. I hate uncle sam right now...
http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=30425

i joined the byoc board and was about to pm him about, but i talked my self out it, and am currently patting myself on the back for being responsible.

the wiring to the jacks is fine because my signal is normal when bypassed. maybe i created a cold joint to my pcb somewhere when i was tightening my jacks. when i engage the pedal the signal is extremely weak and guess what particular connection could be amiss?

my ego driver, which worked perfectly, has ceased to work properly.

problem: with all 3 pots all the way up the volume is still very low.

the gain seems to work, it is too quiet to tell about tone, and the volume must be cranked to hear it all.

i have checked for unwanted bridges and every thing seems good. leading up to the problem the jacks loosened possibly causing some unwanted connections. if i remember properly i was getting no sound when the pedal was engaged and after working on it no sound ever, and i don't remember how i eventually had very low output. at some point in time i think i remember seeing a strand of wire that possibly was connecting terminals 2 & 3 on the gain section of the pcb. i think i have a failed component somewhere.

does anyone have a guess of where to start?

thanks for reading,
matt poole

p.s.
i will probably be slow to respond because i won't be online tomorrow.

thanks guys.

I am about to build a normal version, any recommendations? socketing certain parts or anything?

i think c4 drastically effected the tone control, so you may want to try a socket for that.

i am assuming the resistor changes are what is giving more low end, but i could be wrong. the low end is nice but there is a trade off, i seem be lacking some of the control with the drive that i had with my previous version. of course my first build was the black version, so there may be some caps and resistors attributing to the tonal differences.

matt

i built a new pedal today, it is two neutrinos in a 1590bb. on both pcbs i used the resistor/cap recipe for the burst with the exception of c4, r3, and r4 where i used the changes recommended here... http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=160.0

i used asymmetrical clipping with a100k pots for drive and volume for one and symmetrical with a500k pots on the other. i used rc5448p chips for both.

the tone is a lot fuller one these than the black version i built a while back, however it doesn't cut quite as well. i actually need turn the tone all the way up. on my previous build i barely used the tone. i was shocked that the pedal with 100k pots is slightly louder than the 500k pedal and seems grittier, maybe that's the asymmetrical clipping.

i apologize for my wiring, i got lazy i guess. i also ran out of solder and had to use larger solder that i stopped using long ago because it is messy and doesn't melt well enough.

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thanks, that´s a relief i ordered a 20 pack on ebay.

will this cap be ok for a fatpants? (i was worried about it's tolerance being a high %)

- Manufacturer: Panasonic

- Part Number: ECK-ATS221MB

- Capacitor Type: Ceramic Disc, Y5P Dielectric

- Capacitor Value: 220pF

- Capacitor Voltage Rating: 250VAC Y1 / 440VAC X1

- Capacitor Tolerance: +/-20%

- Operating Temperature: -25C to 125C

- Lead Spacing: 0.295" (7.0mm)

- Diameter: 0.276" (7.00mm) Max

i have the board populated minus c1, i some how missed that when sourcing parts.

thanks,
matt