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I'm trying to build a muff with features from all of my favorite muff clones. I'm using a rullywow king tut board but also have an Aion electronics halo. Not sure which would be easier to apply the off board mods to.

I'd like to include the depth control from the Earthbound Audio Supercollider but how to wire it in has me a bit confused. I can visualize the pot in parallel with a smaller film cap with a 10uF tantalum attached to lug 3. What I'm not sure of is where to attach the wire from lug 2 of the pot. It looks to be in series with the rest of the depth circuit but the base of Q4 and R14.

Any idea how to go about doing this?

For reference I am using the rullywow schematic and the Kitrae schematics for the pharaoh and supercollider.

The pedal will be done to civil war spec with 1st and second stage clipping toggles with a JMK clean blend.

Hello collective.

I recently completed an Aion Electronics Helios board with a JMK panner as a clean blend. It was my first multi PCB build and it turned out really great.  For about 3 weeks it was 100% operational and was quickly becoming my favorite pedal. In the last week it died.  At first I was getting a weak splatty signal with intermittent functionality.  Shortly after that, it got worse and is producing nothing at all really.  My first thought was to manipulate the clean knob to try and isolate the problem board.  Full dry yields no signal at all.  Full wet yields a very quiet distortion that is only audible with the volume dimed. Even at that, the distortion tone is very weak sounding.  I feel like it could be the panner, but the blend function works smoothly and I am not sure how to explain it.  My second thought was that one or both of the ICs are bad.  I'll be swapping them out to see if that fixes the issue.  My expectation is that it will fix the issue temporarily but then die again. 

I do not own an audio probe and I don't really know how to properly troubleshoot this issue.  It seems like there isn't a whole lot of thorough or concise information out there on exactly how to go about tracing the signal path and what points are most key to test.  More than likely this boils down to a bad component but I'd like to figure out how to isolate that.  I triple checked for solder bridges or areas where there could be a short, and everything is clean and clear.  I can post more detailed photos to support this but I am trying to figure this out without completely disassembling the pedal. 

Any helpful advice or tips would be greatly appreciated.

With the Mudbunny schematic, I suspect you'd bypass the tonestack by tying Q3's collector to C12. This will probably make the circuit louder, given the lossy tonestack.

So would I simply run a wire from the Q3 pad and one of the pads of C12 to the first and second lug of a on off SPDT? I'm trying to figure out how to do this mod on any muff based pcb. C 12 may be C13 or 14 depending on the particular layout and I know I'll need to refer to the schematic, but the application should be the same. I know it will be louder, that's partly the goal.

I've searched long and hard for this seemingly simple bit of info to no avail. I am trying to build a BMP with a tone bypass switch. All I can seem to find is information verifying that such a mod exists and that it removes a resistor and a cap. What I cannot find is a diagram illustrating how to wire this to a switch. I currently have an Aion Electronics Halo board and a Rullywow King Tut to work with. Why I'm asking for would make that irrelevant though as it should work for any BMP clone. Where to I hook the wires up to???

On a related note, I have a couple THCustoms 5 band EQ boards. What do I need to look at if I want to "inject" this board into the tone section of a BMP or Rat? Is it better to just run the EQ in series with the dirt board before/after?

I had a similar struggle in learning how to wire an offboard diode selection switch but have recently learned that you simply run the middle lugs of a dpdt to the two positive pads of the diode group.

Help a dude out.

This may be a noob question but won't the LEDs only light up is they are grounded? For some reason, my Muff builds with LED clipping, the LEDs don't light up. They do light up in my rat builds.

The intent is to have all of the boards on at once.

Two dirt circuits ran in parallel via paralyzer all within the loop of a clean blend.

Thanks for the tip regarding jumpers.

Hello madbean world.

A little intro, I have lurked these forums for the past year or so absorbing the knowledge of the hive mind. My skills are novice, but every project has been a learning experience. I've built a few successful fuzz pedals and a quasi successful envelope filter.

I want to push myself and build something more complex. I've had an idea brewing for several months and have just collected all of the requisite PCBs for the project. I want to build a Slow Loris and (rullywow king tut or an aion OCD clone) ran in parallel and blended via a JMK paralyzer. All of this will be ran in the loop of a JMK panner as a clean blend. 4 pcbs in a box for an "ultimate" bass OD/distortion.

Are there any things I should be weary of? Potential power supply noise/issues? Do I wire the power to each PCB in series or parallel? With the LED, that would make for 5 wires coming off the DC jack. I'll probably reduce that to 4 by using the LED pads on the panner PCB.

Finally, a general noob question. When build docs tell me I can omit a component such as R10 on the Slow Loris, do I simply leave the pads empty or do I jumper them?


Thanks for any and all insight. This has been an idea clouding other ideas for a while and after hearing Fuzzrocious's recent Bongripper limited edition pedal which is essentially a Cat tail and Demon in parallel with a blend and baked in EQ, I decided to put the plan in action.


Mike

What I have in my head is this: Essentially a modded Ernie Ball VP with an LFO circuit inside the enclosure.  The expression pedal pot would then control the rate. Surely this could be done with an adjacent switch box, but can it be done so that when the expression pedal is rocked back both the rate and the wet signal are essentially at 0.  As you rock forward the rate picks up and the effect engages.

Pipe dream or doable?

Hello forum,

My names Mike. This is my first post but I have been utilizing this wealth of knowledge for sometime now.  I have two successful builds and one potential KIA but I am pushing onward as I am very interested in learning this craft.  I also have a lot of crazy/potentially awesome ideas.

The first of which is a Volume pedal mod.  It it possible run an LFO circuit without the switch in an "always on position".  The idea is that I can have the pedal in the "mute position" to eliminate the oscillation (ideally with zero to minimal tone suck) and then just rock forward to engage the LFO.

Does something like this exist?