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I have experimented with simple discrete op-amps for overdrives.  The result was my D-Tube overdrive (a discrete op-amp version of the tube screamer circuit), a layout for which I posted over at the Guitar FX Layouts site at the link below.  It works great and is fairly forgiving of the JFETs and BJTs used in the discrete op amps.  It also sounds a little different than an average tube screamer - perhaps a little smoother.

http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/D-Tube-A-Discrete-Op-Amp-Overdrive-tp41274.html

BTW, the discrete op amp topology I adopted is similar to that used in BOSS circuits like the Blues Driver.  However, I added a BJT buffer at the output of the JFET/PNP op amp part of the circuit.   I would think that you could apply this same discrete op amp idea to just about any one or two op amp overdrive or distortion circuit (Gainster, OCD, Zendrive, Klon...).  You could even experiment with creating a discrete op amp with an adapter that could be plugged into a 8 pin socket of an existing effect.  Lots of DIY fun!   

I've had nothing but good experiences with Smallbear (in fact, that reminds me, I need to order some parts for some upcoming projects  ).

There was one time when I had ordered some capacitors and they sent the wrong value for one of several on my list.  I contacted Smallbear and they shipped the right part out pronto.  Great service!

One thing I've been doing for the past several years is to get broken pedals for cheap on eBay and Reverb and repair them (to perhaps sell later).  My focus has been on older effects from the 70s, 80s, and 90s, and avoid anything digital.  But I have successfully fixed several pedals and resold a few at a good price.  Perhaps my best success was bringing an Ibanez RC99 chorus back to life after someone had used the wrong polarity power supply (yikes, what a mess the power protection diode was!  ).  I also have an old Vox Buckingham waiting for additional work... 

So YOU'RE the one that keeps outbidding me

I think you're both out bidding me too! Haha! I actually have a few that I've been meaning to put on "the bay". I guess I'll message you two first.


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Heh!  No, I usually get my broken pedals on Reverb where you don't have to bid... 

One pedal I got from eBay that turned into a keeper was an old Carvin TO-1 overdrive.  I traced it and it turned out to be a part-for-part replication of the Boss SD-1.  After fixing it (replacing pots and fixing the switching system), I found it to be a nice-sounding, slightly warmer tube screamer variant.  The case is also the one of the most rugged steel enclosures I've ever run across!

One tip for Reverb - set up a Feed with the keywords pedal --> non-functioning.  Then you'll see all the non-functioning (aka broken) pedals as soon as they are listed.  Happy hunting!

For me, my "decline" has been entirely due to the fact that my basement workshop is being renovated (been going on for several months now), and so I can't just pop down there for a quick build session.  I have several projects I want to finish up and a few other to explore further with breadboarding.  It's all on hiatus until after this summer's vacation, when I'll have some time to reorganize everything.

I have to admit, however, that after a while there's only so many tube screamers and fuzzes you can build for yourself before you get saturated.  So the rate at which I work on PCB and vero projects will naturally slow down after a while unless I can give some pedals away  .

One thing I've been doing for the past several years is to get broken pedals for cheap on eBay and Reverb and repair them (to perhaps sell later).  My focus has been on older effects from the 70s, 80s, and 90s, and avoid anything digital.  But I have successfully fixed several pedals and resold a few at a good price.  Perhaps my best success was bringing an Ibanez RC99 chorus back to life after someone had used the wrong polarity power supply (yikes, what a mess the power protection diode was!  ).  I also have an old Vox Buckingham waiting for additional work... 

OK - since I've supported Tagboard Effects over many years (in fact, that site is what got me into DIY pedal building in the first place), let me say that you can't just post a schematic unless the original author permits that.  Most often, they will post a link to FSB or some other source where the schematic is provided.  One reason they do this, besides the obvious permissions issue, is that often the circuit is modded before the final layout is considered "verified".  Once it is verified, I suppose someone could offer to generate schematics for the purpose of documentation of the vero layouts - any takers?? 

BTW - I've posted a few original circuits there, and when I do I include a schematic (although it may be from LTSpice rather than a pro schematic rendering app).  Which reminds me of a question - what software are people using for schematics these days?

I have three Telecasters 

(1) American Standard Tele with TV Jones telecaster pickups.  Hot (but not overly so) with great clarity and twang.
(2) Partscaster Tele with a surf green H-H body.  This guitar has two Jason Lollar HB-sized P-90s.  This is THE rock and roll guitar, especially in the bridge position!  Fat midrange and lots of tone!
(3) Tele Deluxe with two Brandwound Wide Range Humbuckers.  These pickups are built like the vintage Fender versions from the 70s, with 12 magnet pole pieces (the Fender reissues are built like conventional HBs with steel screw pole pieces and a magnet on the bottom).  I love these pickups as they combine the beef of a humbucker and the clarity of a single coil.  Quite hot at about 10K each.

Here's a non-conventional choice for you.  I recently modded a MIM strat body to accommodate a pickguard loaded with full size Burns Brian May Trisonics.  They are fanstastic pickups and sound hotter with a mid-range bite (like p-90s) as compared to normal strat pickups.  Yet, in the neck-middle and middle-bridge switch positions, they retain the clarity and bell-like sound you'd expect from a strat, except with a little more beef.

I should note that the pickup is constructed like a p-90, except that is has no metal pole pieces (the holes in the pickup cover are just for show).  Also, if you decide to go for these, you can get them in slightly smaller size so you don't have to do any modifications to the pickup routs.  I have to enlarge mine slightly to fit the full size Trisonics. 

Well, I can see immediate use by AC/DC cover bands playing "It's a Long Way to the Top if you Want to Rock and Roll"...

I have a Telecaster Deluxe with this condition, and there are two ways to address the problem:

(1) Move the bridge laterally so the strings align as bets they can with the edges of the fingerboard (and pickup poles).  This will require filling then redrilling and tapping the bridge mounting holes.
(2) Take off the neck and **carefully** sand the edges of the neck pocket to permit the neck to tilt to the left, and thus aligning the high E string.  Often times you can simply loosen the neck screws, hold and press the neck to the left, then retighten the screws, but I would check to make sure the neck fits in the pocket at the correct angle and with minimal stress on the sides of the pocket.  Good luck!

And now this...

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2018/01/nuverdrive.html

In the Nuverdrive circuit, an op amp gain stage drives a NuTube gain stage into distortion, which is somewhat un-screamer-like but may sound pretty good (if the demo video is any indication).   Certainly a lot of room for innovation and creativity.  Of course, at $50 for a single NuTube, one would want to do a lot of breadboarding before committing the NuTube to a build. 

PS:  Will Madbean be tossing his hat into the NuTube ring?? 

I used to use a Digitech RP1000 multi-effects pedal for my gigging pedalboard.  Compact and convenient, with zillions of effects, amp, cab, wah models.  Sounded great.  Then it crapped out on me in the middle of an outdoor gig, and I had to use my amp alone (no pedals!!).      But it turned out to be - liberating!  My amp had a crunch channel and I was able to do most of our songs with that alone.  And I could just focus on my guitar and not all of the pedal settings.

Since then I've gone with a completely analog pedalboard and have been able to dial in great overdrive tones with only a few relatively simple pedals.  Lesson learned.  My amp is a Roland Blues Cube Artist (80W), which I set to run clean with reverb to taste.  I could just as easily use a clean tube amp (like a Deluxe Reverb) - but I don't because I find most tube amps are too heavy for regular gigging.  The cube is only 35 lbs!   

Just got my Cascadia PCB yesterday.     Will start my build when my Smallbear order arrives later this week (hopefully).  I'll try to set up a video demo and post it when I have the unit up and running.  My current pedalboard has a compressor and Klon clone (set up as a low gain preamp) upstream of my current overdrive, so we'll see how it behaves in that configuration.

Nice!  Waiting for my kit as well.  I think I'll get the deeper 1590BBM enclosure from Mammoth for this, along with other parts I need.  What GE diodes did you use? 

Just ordered a PCB.  I'm all about low to medium gain overdrives for classic rock and modern country.  Now, I just need to get the parts I don't have from Smallbear!   

Funny you say that. I'd like to hear someone who can play country through this thing. I only have a few country tricks in my bag, but I have a feeling this thing would be perfect for that, too.

Modern (alt) country is in many ways a lot like 70s southern rock (a la Lynyrd Skynyrd), so a bit of overdrive but not as much as classic rock.  I like to have some low, mid-range, gritty overdrive for country solos and for rhythm guitar on southern rock-type songs.  I think the Cascadia should fill that role nicely - looking forward to building it!

Just ordered a PCB.  I'm all about low to medium gain overdrives for classic rock and modern country.  Now, I just need to get the parts I don't have from Smallbear!