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Thanks for the help. 
Removed IC9, no change.
Did some digging, figured out that I swapped the 100k and 10k pots on the delay and feedback.  Swapped those 2 out, (I hate desoldering pots!!) but doesn't appear to have fixed the problem yet.  Just changed the frequency to going from a slow click to a fast click rather than a fast click to a buzz.  (I checked, same frequency as the clock output.)
D5 is good to go.  Voltages on IC8 are all in the same ballpark, although I have to turn the delay all the way down to get the voltages to stabilize on pins 1,2,3,10,11, and 13.  Interestingly, voltages on the BBD are mostly in the same ballpark, and I can adjust the bias to get in the range you were in, but the output voltages on 3 and 4 are lower.  (approx 6V, rather than the 10V you got.)

C40 may take some work as it's sandwiched between the IC socket and a box cap, will have to work on that tonight.

I don't have another CD4047, so this may have to wait for the next Mouser order for further testing.  Bummer.

Running into issues calibrating my Total Recall, was hoping I could tap into the group's expertise.

At this point I've got the board populated with all IC's, minus one of the 2 BBD's. 
Power supply is wired appropriately, have -15V DC at the regulator.

My little toy digital oscilloscope is on the fritz, so I'm having to bias by ear.  I've got the old DD-20 set up as a looper, getting the appropriate audio signal at the input tip.  Same signal, plus a little high pitched whine (clock noise?) at pin 7 of the first BBD.

On pins 3 and 4, I get this clicking/buzzing, but no signal.  Doesn't change at all with movement of the bias knob.  Twisting the delay knob will alter the frequency of the clicking/buzz.  Frequency of the clicking is altered by adjusting the delay knob.   Turning delay down (CCW) increases frequency up to a buzz range, turning it up shifts frequency town towards what I'd call a fast click.  I'm unable to appreciate any of the input audio signal coming through. 

I tried swapping out BBD IC's, but got the same findings with the 2nd chip.  (I'm using the XVive reissues from MN3005 reissues, purchased through Smallbear, so hopefully fake chips isn't a thing.)

Any thoughts/recommendations?  My first guess is that this is somehow related to something wrong with clock signal, but I'm a BBD noob, so I'm mostly just talking out my backside.

Update:  Finally got around to figuring out the switching issue.  Long story short... I'm an idiot.  Soldered the rotary switch to the wrong side of the board, so it only was sending signal through properly on 1/4 of the positions.  Got that fixed today.  New problem is that I think the PT2399 is locking up.  When I restarted it, one of the IC's was palpably warm, and didn't get delay in any position.  Super frustrating because I know at least one of the 4 settings was working for delay previously.  I tried the power down, unseat and reseat trick, but it started again when I powered back up.  Any other tricks to preventing that from happening.  (At the moment, I don't have any other IC's at home to swap out with, I've got another batch coming in a week or so.)

Thanks,
Got some more time to mess with things today, I tried removing/reseating the IC's, here's where I'm at:
After removing and reseating the chips, I'm partially functioning.  On position 2 of the rotary switch, I get a sweet sounding analogue-style delay.  For the other positions that I can get it to at the moment (I've got a stopper installed that limits how many of the 12 positions I can get to), there's no delay at baseline.  If I switch on the path switch, all positions other than 2 get one initial delay, but none further.  Makes for a clean slap backy kind of delay, but not what I'm looking for.  Modulation and Ghost both work as advertised on position #2.

Given the new findings, makes me think I somehow wired the rotary switch up wrong.  It's mounted on the PCB, so I'm not sure if I mounted it on the wrong side of the pcb or what.  (I mounted switch on the same side of the pcb as the pots, then clipped the little bridge to the main pcb and linked the 2 boards with headers.)

On a related note, anyone have a voltage chart for the IC's that I could check against.

Recently trying ed to finish up a v1 Zero Point SDX board and have run into an issue that I could use some help troubleshooting.  I populated the board, hooked it up to my test box, and it seemed to work okay.  (Had repeats, the slam switch caused oscillation, switches worked etc.). I got it into the box, and now it doesn't have any repeats.

Current checks:
1. True bypass works. 
2. Board is getting power as the modulation led is blinking.
3. Signal passes when it's routed through the effect.  It actually causes a slight boost, but there is no repeats and no modulation. Pots and switches do nothing to the signal.

Recommendations on where to start looking?  It was a tight fit to get the board and jacks in, so it's possible that I broke something on the way in.

Or, I could click on the little link at the top of current documentation that takes me right to it...

Never mind!

I there somewhere on the site where we can find archives of older versions of board documentation?  I'm working on finishing up a Kingslayer using the 2014 board.  (Yes, I know, I'm a slacker, but life gets in the way.  I've still got a Zero Point SDX board floating on my workbench somewhere too...)

Anyways, I'd printed out the documentation, but must have hit the "fit to page" option, as the drill plan clearly doesn't match up with the pcb.  I used to be able to find all of that stuff on the site, but couldn't find it today.  (Similar request for the Deadringer 2 if they're in the same spot, as I bet I made the same mistake on that one.)

Thanks!

Hi,
So I've built a few pedals before, but all have been straightforward PCB's where I didn't really need to test multiple parts.  Currently working on finishing up a Rangemaster from one of madbean's PCB's and I had a question.  After realizing (after I'd assembled the 3PR board and populated the main PCB) that I'd accidentally ordered NPN germanium transistors rather than PNP requiringa number of flipped components, I've got everything connected and running, I've figured out the values for R1 and R2 to appropriately bias the transistor, and I briefly tested it with a guitar to prove it indeed makes it  louder. 

Right now, R1 and the transistor are socketed.  In a number of posts on various boards, I've seen it suggested that you leave some components socketed to prevent heat damage during installation.  Obviously, for IC's that's pretty easy, but a number of people have advocated that  for transistors as well.  How the heck to people do that and get the components to stay in place!!??  Admittedly, right now the leads are nice and long to allow easy access to my multimeter alligator clips, but I can't imagine they'd be that much more stable with short legs.  Am I missing something, or are you trading ease of installation for the risk that your transistor might fall out when you mover your pedal board?