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If you are having problems passing signal then the jack is most likely busted (from the explanation you have given)

Replace the jack and move on 

I'm Trying...lol.  I want to put a metal, non pcb version in its place.

When the guitar cable is NOT installed, Contacts 1 & 2 are shorted together. Also, Contacts 3 & 4 are shorted together.

When a guitar cable IS installed, BOTH of these shunts DO NOT make a connection with their respective contacts.

Based on what you wrote quoted below, it seems like the Input jack is functioning properly.

Ok I see what you're saying but the input doesn't work properly.  You have to pull the guitar cord to the left or right to get signal to pass and it's definitely not the cable.  I just recently soldered my cable perfectly and the seller's cable had the same problem.

By looking at the schematic, can you tell me what would happen if I just didn't hook up those pins that shorting out when nothing is plugged in?

So long story short, I bought a Marshall MG50DFX for $75 because I want to use it as a speaker cab for an Orange Tiny Terror.  I WOULD however, like to use the Marshall amp head and this particular amp had an input problem but I figured I could fix it so I offered the dude $75 down from $100 blah blah blah.  Upon removing the pcb mounted input jack, I managed to melt of two "caps?"  I'm going to work around this by making jumper wires that go down line to the next point in the "trace."  However, I've been racking my brain as to the 4th point on a TS input jack and I thought it was completely unused...but then I noticed some down line "stuff" attached to this mysterious contact.  2 of the others are shield related and the 3rd is the tip or hot.  Running a continuity test between the mystery contact and the shield of the cable I had plugged in yielded nothing.  Then with the cable unplugged, I noticed I could get continuity between the mystery and the would-be shield contacts meaning that there was some sort of contact within the pcb input jack that the plugged in cable would disengage (maybe some sort of hum prevention circuitry?).  What can I do to get around this?  I really don't want to pull the Schematics and order the original part because I dont want it to fail again in the future.   Thanks in advance.


Edit:  I've attached the schematics in a PDF format.

The mono jack body/gound is in electrical contact with the enclosure

Didn't think about that.

BUMP.  I noticed the PCB is labeled "Neutrino Ver. 3"  I still also need help with the stereo jack on one side and the mono on the other.  It should also be noted that the mono jack only has one wire hooked up...?  It is the tip or "hot" and there's nothing hooked up to the sleeve or "shield."  I'm certainly no rocket scientist but this doesn't make any sense.

I bought a handmade pedal 4 years ago second hand. He said it was made by a guy here in TN.  It is a Mythos Overdrive pedal.  It should be noted that I'm new to the idea of making my own pedals and to guitar pedals in general as I'm just now really starting to pick up my electric guitar over my acoustic.  I was naive when I bought it and now I just recently purchased the Pigtronix Polysaturator and it's great. I don't know if I should sell it on here to someone that may be interested or scrap the parts for my own pedal making ventures.  It picks up radio frequencies which is why I'm questioning my purchase lol. It was also acting weird the other night but it worked fine just now on a different power adapter. One power adapter that I used the other night puts out 9.6 v at 200 ma and the one from today puts out 9 v at 1A. Doesn't seem like a catastrophic difference to me. I coulda used the one from the polysaturator the other night (18v) but I doubt it.  It looks like they used quality components though.  I did notice there's a stereo jack on one side and a normal mono jack on the other? Any help would be much appreciated.