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Can you elaborate on that a bit?  Would it be possible to build a small box to "filter" the power from a unit like this, and then daisy chain to multiple 18v pedals?

Anyone have experience with one of these?

http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=WSU180-1000-Rvirtualkey55310000virtualkey553-WSU180-1000-R

Seems like a decent deal.  Anything to be wary of?

Howdy,

I've built the 2015 Karate Shop to spec and have been having some fun trying it out in my testing rig.  Great pedal!!

However, I'm finding that I'm wishing the frequency range was voiced higher.  The majority of the sweep of the Freq knob seems pretty bass-y to me until right towards the end.  Wondering if anyone's experimented with either a higher value pot, a higher value in R11, or possibly a nominal increase in R11 and a linear pot? 

Any thoughts?

Tony

I spent the summer of 2013 in Victoria.

In town, I highly recommend taking the quick hike up Mount Douglas (or you can drive most of the way to the top).  There's another great lookout at Mt Tolmie park, which is near the U Vic campus. 

When I first visited U Vic around 2006 the campus was overrun with rabbits and worth the trip just to see them all. The problem has since been "dealt with" but when I was there in 2013 there were wild deer all over the place.  I saw at least a couple each day as I walked to and from buildings on campus.

Butchart Gardens is also great to experience - see if you can go in the afternoon/evening and catch their fireworks display.  A bit pricey, but I've never seen anything like it.  Unreal.

Near Butchart Gardens is Gowlland Tod provincial park, I had an amazing hike there.

Downtown, it's fun to take a little ride on one of the tiny harbour-ferry taxi boats.  The drivers are usually quite hilarious and friendly and will give you good recommendations for other stuff.

If you like sashimi, Ebizo was top notch for quality when I was there.  If you're into creative sushi, check out Sen Zushi. 

Shine Cafe if you like Eggs Benedict. 

If you're into books, there was a pretty epic used bookstore downtown called Russell Books.  I got lost in there for hours.

OH - This is the perfect time of year to check out Beacon Hill Park, because I bet the goats just had their babies.  There is a petting zoo, and it's great to be there when they open the barn and the baby goats all come running out in a stampede.  Sounds silly, but it will make your day.  The local cable channel used to have a 24hour live feed because everyone loves them so much.  Any of the locals will probably be able to tell you what time is best to go.

Hey all, bit of a noob question here.

We moved into a new place in Aug and I set up my pedal workshop in the garage, which already had a nice little bench/pegboard area.  We're in Canada and temperatures have now begun to be below 0C/32F overnight. 

I guess I'm wondering a couple of things:

1:   Is there any harm in storing components (ICs, diodes, pots, etc) in the garage over the winter?

2:  At what point does a colder environment create potential issues with soldering?

I'd love to hear some thoughts.

Hey guys,

I've been looking over the datasheet for the TI LM324 series and am struggling to figure out the differences between the various suffixes. 

My source (Digikey) has LM324AN as the least expensive, and I'm trying to figure out if I can go with that for instances where the suffix isn't specified.  (i.e. Current Lover)


EDIT:  Also trying to understand LM311P vs LM311N...   sigh.   

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.  Cheers!

Hi folks, thought I'd share something I just discovered.

I wanted to verify the values of some Tayda ceramic caps (10pF - 100pF range)  but my multimeter is not very accurate in that range.  47pFs were measuring at about 20p.  1nF and higher it has no problem and is accurate.

I thought about ordering a dedicated Capacitance Meter, but then I discovered a little trick.

I got accurate results for those small values by testing them in parallel with a box cap around 1nF. 

Easiest for my setup is to use a breadboard with a 1nF cap across the multimeter leads, and then hit the "relative" button to zero it out.  I can then plug & unplug my little ceramics into the breadboard to my heart's content, and am getting accurate measurements.  Try it!

I just wanted to share this because I did not find any such suggestion in my online searching, only references to the unreliability of most multimeters in this low range.  The DIY solutions I did find were quite complex.  Cheers!

I too have ticking when the pedal is bypassed and the switch is in S&H mode. 

After poking around a bit tonight, I discovered that a 1uf box cap connected to the pads of the rate LED greatly reduced the ticking while still allowing the LED to blink.  I'm using a bright blue LED.  I wonder if it's possible the the LED itself is the problem. 

It's funny, though, that the ticking isn't really there when the effect is on, only when bypassed. 

Does anyone have any thoughts on this?

I haven't been this stunned by a new pedal in quite a while.  I'll never be able to afford it at 490euros though.

Here's their site where controls are explained:

https://glou-glou.org/rdv-how-to/


I'd love to be able to build something like this!

The DPDT on-on-on difference is in the middle position, which pins are connected.  This has been driving me crazy as well.   Most vendors do not specify, and the ones that do include a diagram (except SB) are almost impossible to tell if the POV are the pins looking down at the switch from above, or looking up at the pins/lugs from below, know what I mean?

I like to support SmallBear, but all I need right now is the switch, and ordering just that will wind up costing me about $20 Canadian after shipping.

Anyone have a verified alternate source that might be a little more reasonable?

Speaking personally, the fact that you weren't offering kits was the impetus for me to start my parts library, and I've sure learned a heck of a lot more that way, and had more fun too.

Wow - thank you so much! 

First, confirm that pin 4 has continuity to ground. 

That did it!  Looks like I had a bad solder joint under pin 4...  it was going nowhere.  Redid that one and am now in Green Bean heaven !!!!   

Hey guys,

I'm having a little trouble with a Green Bean build.  This is only my 4th build ever, and the first time I've run into a problem that I haven't been able to solve through closer inspection & internet searching.

Issue:  no sound at output. 

I've built an audio probe and have been following the schematic.  Everything seems fine until the part I've outlined in red:


Pin 2&3 of the 4558 have audio loud & clear.
Pin 1 has very faint audio.

C3 has good signal on one side, faint on the other.

I've measured my drive pot and it's functioning correctly, but again, lug 2&3 good audio, lug 1 very faint.

Faint/no audio following that section.

I did notice that it appears I have audio on pin4 of the IC...  I'm a noob, but I was not expecting that.

I quickly checked voltages on the IC, and all pins were around 8.6.  I could make a more precise list if that would be helpful.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.   

Hello.    Here's an article explaining Boss PSA vs ACA:

http://stinkfoot.se/archives/726

Sounds like there may be a couple of solutions to your problem!   

Yup, I am using the Boss PSA 120. I actually tried 2 different ones. An older model and a brand new one. I do appreciate you responding.

Are you using an official BOSS ACA power adapter?

If you are not... then that LED will always be dim or not on at all. It is a well known fact that BOSS pedals have a resistor/diode circuit inside that needs to be jumpered if you want to use another PS (like a 1Spot or the likes)