Messages

oh, cool.   i'll definitely check that out.  my daughter is just getting into painting, so would be a good way to get dual use out of the acrylic paint.

jimi - you fill a silk screen with photo emulsion and let it dry in the dark, then put your graphic mask over the green emulsion and expose it to light.   everywhere light hits, it cures the photo emulsion, and the stuff under the black graphic mask can be washed away, creating the mask.

Lee - i hear you on the frustration, I'm just going to pick graphics that are forgiving where the defects look like they are planned (you start noticing this is t-shirt graphics after doing this).   Just going to scratch this itch until they make an affordable laser etcher that will go through aluminum.    280 dpi is pretty dense, do you have any posts of you work here?   I can't figure out how to search someone's posts for keywords.

I did a couple of screens for t-shirts that worked out and wanted to try to do some enclosures after seeing some successes posted here (Jacquard ink).  I have one graphic (waterslide) that i thought would be good for screen printing, so I tried to modify the graphic to make the text more obvious and such, anyway, here are the results.   I scuff/brush the surface to get a brushed/bright textured look.   Lessons learned are to widen the text much more, figure out how to center/align better, use the right size squeegee.....    They came out pretty good, just need to clearcoat next and see if I can make the actual pedal .

I made the little fixture with MDF and a jig saw, and originally tried to use the enclosure back as a way to restrain the enclosure during printing, but it slid too much and made the graphic placement too unpredictable.   so moved to a spring loaded restraint, then had to shim to get to right height.

waterslide graphic here:
http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=22138.msg217945#msg217945

I know this is very old, but I tried A2K's on my second Dig Dug and it is not better, less fine control.   Just removed all of them and replaced successfully with B2K's and feel invincible!  haha.     forgot i wanted to try the B1K option, but oh well.   

Revisiting this.   Tried it and does not really work.   Original/5 stages works on my board, once you start adding more like in the schematic, it starts bringing in waves of static.   Added stages sorta work in manual mode with feedback all the way up.

Yep, power supply issue.   I jumpered R58 initially, then just thought it had to be clock noise and got off track with thing passing signal without chips.   I had some 1/2 watt 46 ohm resistors i stuck in in parallel, and it's all good now.   thanks for getting me back on track.

I'm troubleshooting my Aquaboy Deluxe 2013 build, not yet ready to post a tech help post yet.   Short story, I have high pitched noise, thought it was clock noise, but after removing all the chips its still there.   

The weird thing is that it still passes dry signal, although a bit reduced, with all the chips not installed.  Is that possible?  Just wondering if that is what i should be troubleshooting now.  There is a transistor buffer before the LF353 buffers, could it push signal through the feedback resistors in the op amps stages without the op amps there?

Edit:  It works fine with all the chips in, just has the high pitched noise (just not sure of the source yet)

Oh cool, that's a really good tip.   I did get some flux in a syringe, but did not have any magnification.   I got a usb microscope now and also the ring light/magnifying things, which i should have got years ago.

I wanted to make a noise gate to possibly use with the ROG Thunderbird, then a friend suggested the octagon/stop sign would be funny as a noise gate.  So looking for noise gates and found the AMZ Q&D 2, which is a compressor as well and still fits the stop sign joke and has a mute function.

It uses a SSM2166, which is for mic preamps or something, seems to work well.   Handing over to a friend to test out with ambient slide stuff and to test the noise gate (i have no noisy pedals around that work).   "Ratio" should be "Rotate" or "Threshold".  I got confused.

This is my first SMD soldering attempt, chip to adapter board, to stripboard layout.  Not sure i was built for SMD, haha

cheers

I've built two Dig Dug 2's, one about a year ago, and just finished another.   Both strangely have an issue where sometimes it will go 8 steps when the odd number step sequences are selected.  Meaning for step switch on 1 it goes 8 steps, switch on 2 it goes 2, switch on 3 it goes 8, etc......  First time around i thought it was the switch, cleaned it, the put a new switch in and still same issue.  Now a year later, new switch, new chips, same thing.

Just wanted to check if anyone ever experience this?  I have a few more CD4017's I'm going to switch out, but wondering what could be causing it.  Maybe a different D3 to get a higher voltage to reset?

Just adding one more I know of, Tonepad FSH-1 has a reversible sweep, up/down DPDT switch.

http://tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=138

Fender Blender, Ampeg Scrambler, Superfuzz

I wanted to try adding stages to a bad stone / bloodstone.   I tried with the MFOS phaser and failed, figured i'd try here and fail again.

Is it possible to add 6 stages by adding 3 4558's and a CD4009, then just feeding them the same VB/VR and signal from the LFO?  Like this?   Or is there something going on with the pin 14/15 stage that i don't understand?



https://photos.app.goo.gl/94rdBhFgUavPtZtb8

The etch looks great!

Haha, i should try!   Yeah, I had not put in the led yet.

Nice! Cool design. But are you also going to pay Jimmy Page for using his name? 

Is the wiring complete? There's a jumper to that middle row, assuming you just haven't wired up the LED?