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Messages - BrokeDownSouth

#1
Just noticed on both schematics pin 5 of the opamp (non-inverting again) have a 10K resistor to Vb (R9 on Green Bean).  I wonder, again, if it is not needed on pin 3 due to C2 being omitted.
#2
I had planned on breadboarding it, but I'm early in the build and was just going over the schematics.  I brought this up because I had built a couple 'Matsumin SRV's' on some solderable breadboard and then a while later I build one based on the Green Bean.  The Green Bean sounded a lot different.  I'm taking another look now after a several-year hiatus from pedal building; comparing the schematics in detail.

I was wondering if R5 is not needed due to the coupling caps being omitted - maybe pin 3 opamp input is getting DC voltage from the -> transitor because C2 is omitted in the Matsumin version.

Just trying to learn some theory, feel free to correct me.
#3
I had a few questions about this build, but the first was the omission of R5 from the Green Bean schematic (10K between pin 3 of opamp and Vb).  What difference would not having the bias voltage on this spot make?

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/ulysses/ulysses_layouts/ulysses_ts_srv_special/matsumin_ts_srv_special_schem.gif.html
#4
General Questions / Re: Nautilus cap question
March 06, 2014, 06:58:43 AM
I ran into this too... I had some ceramic caps marked '202', so I figured they'd be close enough.  I measured them to see if some were a little low and they all measured 2400-2600pf!  I grabbed some Tayda box caps marked '1n5J' and the were all dead on 1500pf, nice.  Since C5/C6, C7/C8 are switched, I figured 1.5nf would be a better option b/c I'd get a little more noticeable difference switching from the 2.2nf.