Messages

 The original two will do it. You are a lifesaver, really looking forward to building these! The guitar has been modified to accept "on board effect" both boards are small and combine good functionality. Thank you.

 I would very much appreciate any help in obtaining these docs. I have searched the web all over the place, it seems you can buy the finished pedal, but nary a build doc in sight! I have been sitting on these for a good while (along with a few others, same company, same problem). I am looking at small boards for onboard installs.

So sorry, my house keeping skills are lacking.

The whole ebay PPal thing is corrupted beyond control. I have lost my shirt with them.  In disputes,the customers are always found to be right. I also realized that my money in my PP acct. wasn't ......my money. They can freeze, hold, pend you name it,without your consent. I've had some nightmare experiences with customers that are nothing less than criminal. Yet ebay and PP eats them right up. They have a corner on the market so they can screw whomever they choose . There has got to be a better way. Ive tried Reverb, which is ok, but sales are very slow. The sad reality is that 9 times out of ten it COSTS you to sell on this monopolized BS site.

Have you played it? check the neck for straightness, if you can, remove the truss rod cover and check to make sure the rod isn't frozen or stripped. Check the bridge to make sure it isn't caving in.  If all is well, buy it! Hell the case is worth a couple hundred bucks.

I would suggest two options here.
1) have the instrument checked out by a qualified luthier, if you really want to keep it.
2) Tell Gibson you want a brand new guitar with seals intact and a letter of authenticity signed and dated by the final inspector .
If they baulk , at all, tell them the pictures are going to hit the web asap. In truth they should be bending over backwards to accommodate you. Orville would be rolling in his grave.

There is a smoke or grayish pearloid color that I think would go well.

Check out pre-tinned stranded from " All Spectrum Electronics' " It has worked well for me and the price is right. Haven't tried their solid.

Wow, conformation! This happened to me with the dirtbaby, the resistor actually fried black. After a reasoning session with my brain, I decided to jumper and no more problem. I am still having trouble getting effect. I get bypass and un effected through the board. The controls alter the sound but no delay.

Great up grades to helping hands, I also mounted mine to an old cast iron lamp base about 6" diameter. No more falling over.

Use the two part. Put a piece of tape or use the tape to place a piece of cardboard on the inside of the box to cover the offending hole. On the top side fill the hole with the mixed glue and leave a bit of a mound (it settles and fills in) when cured , 12 hrs, you can file, sand the glued spot flat. I use a flat board with some sandpaper on top and rub the box against it. Belt or disc sanders work well also.  You can drill this stuff as well.

Have a tranny tester just like it, cost me more than $13.00 through. I had to rig a new battery set-up as the original d cell was soldered to the leads! There wasn't enough current to operate the tester but the battery still put out 1.5V, from 1969! They don't make em like they used to.

Ok turns out I didn't get the memo for the r29 fix, My LED now blinks rate, but still no effect. Rechecked voltages and they are off as follows ic 1:1- 4.45
2- 4.445
3- 4.45
4-0
5- 4.45
6- 4.45
7- 4.45
8- 9.48
ic 2
1- 2.1mv
2- .1v
3- 3.70
4-8.46
5- varies
6- 4.35
7- 3.9mv
8- 5.8mv
ic3
1- 9.05
2- 4.38
3- .2mv
4-4.36
5-varies
6- 8.64
7-varies
8- 8.47
ic4
1- varies
2- 4.70
3- varies
4- 0
5- 4.70
6- 4.80
7- varies
8- 9.47

When testing (Rocking it before I box it), I get what seems to be a boosted signal but no effect, The controls do nothing (rate and depth) and the indicater LED stays lit with no pulse for rate. The chips I'm using were obtained through Smallbear. They are v3207,v3102 I also got a set of bl3207, bl3102 and I have tried both with the same result. I have carefully checked for bridges, poor joints, etc and can find nothing amiss. Jumpers are correct as well. I have gone through ic's and tran's checking voltages. From the schematic all seems well, I don't know what all of the ic voltages are but I checked the ones given in the schematic, i.e. DC voltage. There are no erratic readings either. I am pretty new at this but I'm getting better at the debug process, this one I don't have a clue. Any help would be appreciated.

I did and he got right back to me with a BOM. Very impressive. Thank all for responding here. Looks like I'm good to go.