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When I did mine a few years ago, I paid $650 for a 720p/1080i projector. They can be had for a little less now, but nothing of quality for sub $400

Yep! I may start again by trying to modify pedals. I definitely need to pick up some of the recommended readings people mention, so I can understand exactly what each component does, and then understand how the circuits actually function and affect the toan. 

But right now I don't have time to start, but I can definitely get the books to read while I'm on my throne.

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Just an update...the light wasn't an LED like I thought (I never really looked), and the hole I drilled had the leads stressed on the bulb.  The leads just popped off, and that's why it failed.  I ordered a new one, clipped it in, and it works great!

I did it once.  I was getting tayda shipments in 6 days, regular old post. Did dhl, and the driver claimed he couldn't find my house for 4 days, even though after the first day I called and gave directions that were spot on, and a blind man could follow them.

Tayda did their part, but dhl screwed up big time. Ended up taking 8 days. They offered me a $30 credit for any future shipments, but I told them no thanks since they obviously didn't have their shit together enough to find any house to begin with.

Moral of the story...I hate dhl.

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I run a class 5 head too, into an orange 1x12.  I did the VVR mod into it to where I can get it dirty at lower volumes. It takes pretty much any pedal I throw at it and sounds great.

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Well, except not with a pedal.  I bought a VVR (variable voltage resistor) for my Marshall Class 5 so I could get some crunch without having to dime it.  My fiancee and downstairs neighbor don't like it too much when I do.

I installed it, moved the LED indicator to a new spot and everything works.  Well the LED failed on me after a few minutes, but that's not a big issue for me.  Needless to say, I'm excited.  But no, I'm not gonna go all in and start modding amps now.  Just gonna stick to playing!

I'm trying to do this, but I'm no good at GIMP, or Photoshop or anything, when it comes to making these layouts.

I'm working on a Green Bean, and am using the standard drill template as provided in the build doc.  I'm trying to come up with a design to put on the thing, but I'm not having much luck.  Was wondering if someone could help by making a quick one for me.  I'm basically just wanting to have everything labeled and have "Cylinder Holler" at the bottom.

If you're looking at it from the top of the enclosure, the left pot is the level, the right pot is the drive, and the bottom pot is the tone.  I also have the Fat switch on the top left, and the Asym/Sym switch on the top right.  Any takers?

I just finished populating my Green Bean board (and it works!).  I'm working on getting an enclosure prepped for this project, but need some help with one thing.

I'm using the 1776 effects 3pdt board to simplify my wiring and ensure I don't screw it up anymore.  On the Green Bean PCB, they have a spot for LED hookup, but they also have a spot on the 1776 effects board.  Do I wire it up only to the 1776 board, or what should I do in this case? I'm assuming the 4k7 resistor is the CLR for the LED, and that's why there is a spot to hook up the LED to PCB itself, but I'm confused on this.

I just placed my second order with BLMS.  It was placed while he was out of town...so I expected him to be back for a full day, and it come back the second...NOPE! Out the door in the morning the day he returns.

Great customer service from him, and I'll keep ordering...even if I can't hardly build a working pedal!

From what I read, they normally post one right after tax time. So hopefully any day now.

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Another tip I picked up if you're shooting from a tripod and worried about camera blur, use the timer. Some timers can be set to only a second or two, and this gives the camera time to settle from pressing the button.

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I also use GuitarLesson365.  He doesn't actually release a new song every day, but he's got tons of lessons that are very detailed.

I'm trying to trace backwards from the tone pot...

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=81

I see several traces coming from the tone pot, and since I don't know exactly which ones are in the path, I checked them all.  The entire board is correct with values.  I use a ring light with a 5x magnifier on it to examine boards and solders, and I don't see any bridges.  I'm still using my rig tester to troubleshoot, so I don't know where it could be shorting out.

I know the odds are low, but I'm going to try a new pot, just to ensure that it isn't faulty.

The tone pot is wired up correctly, and I cut the wires, and resoldered them on.  I was unable to find any short in it.  I double checked tonepad's website, and it is a B20k pot, which is what I have wired up.

Feels better, that's for sure. Just need to figure out the tone pot. It should have an audible change with the sound, right?