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And I don't want to get into a multimeter discussion, but I'm having a hard time figuring out what's up with mine. I have a Fluke 87v and the 440mA (low current) fuse is blown. However, it should still measure current on the Amps (high current) setting as a decimal, but I keep getting 0.00. When I measure it across the battery, it first shows 2-3 amps, then slowly and continuously drops.

Measure the resistance while not working, and V while turned on, across 2 and 3 of Stab. V=IR, P=IV. I=V/R, so you can get the current the circuit draws (minus the LED, work across R7 for that). From that, multiply it by the voltage across 2 and 3 to get the power drawn by the main circuit. P = I^2 / R.

What do you mean by "across 2 and 3 of Stab"? Wouldn't I measure R from the board input to the board output? And why do I need to know power?

Yeah, that's what I read somewhere else... multimeter's acting weird. It has a blown fuse in the mA/uA side. I'll have to try another tomorrow.

I just finished my zombii fuzz build this past weekend, and can't find any info on current rating for a power adapter. I checked it with a multimeter with the battery hooked up, and it's reading nearly 3 amps... I figured there's no way that could be right. But when I went to remove the battery, it was very warm. That's when I determined something must be drawing excessive current somewhere.

I double checked all the obvious connections, checked resistance between positive and negative, and it was in the hundreds of kOhms range. The pedal works fine as far as I can tell. Is any of this normal? Surely one component wouldn't cause that much current draw.

Looks great!  Congratulations on your build. 

As far as pictures go, I recommend getting a dropbox or photobucket account and uploading them there.  Then you can just link to them in your posts.  This way, they will be preserved for a long time and it makes it easier on the server for the forum (which is at a premium for space).  Sometimes pictures uploaded directly to the forum can disappear over time when maintenance is done etc.

Thanks, and will do.

Guess I have to resize every pic...

Finally finished today. As far as op-testing, all the knobs work, and it does indeed make fuzz, among other things. It does seem to be a bit (very) unstable as far as ungodly noises, but I guess that's what they're known for.

Here's some pics.

Thanks for the quick replies everybody. One more question. In regards to #1, if I decide to leave out the LED, would I just leave the SW hole on the pcb alone? It would just be like an electrical dead end, taking the resistor out of that circuit, right?

This is my first (and hopefully not last) project, and I'm currently having some trouble wiring everything in the 1590B box. Granted, I will be doing this over on a new enclosure due to some erroneous holes drilled, but I'd like to finish this one first. I'll number them to simplify things:

1. I bought a DPDT in stead of a 3PDT, so will I still be able to include the LED, or will I have to jumper the "SW" on the pcb to ground?

2. What 3PDT switch is everybody using? My DPDT is a Carling, and it sticks out nearly an inch. Is there one that this thing was designed to have?

3. I bought 2 stereo jacks rather than one mono and one stereo. What do I do with the extra terminal on the input jack?

4. More of a complaint than an issue. The pots are so close together that even these http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=644 interfere with each other. I soldered the pots on as evenly as possible, but even so, there are 2 or 3 that are minutely closer together than the others, and the knobs rub each other (no pun intended). Essentially, there could be an extra mm in between them.

Also, I noticed from several pictures that the original FF has the pcb oriented with the components facing inward, whereas the zombii has them facing opposite. This would be more ideal when keeping things from shorting out. Would it be possible to reverse the pcb so that the knobs are in the same sequence, but the board is flipped?

Thanks!