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Beautiful. Why don't more people do phaser delays? Feels like a natural combo and you don't really see them.

I have a wren and cuff super russian that has a "dreamer" switch. It's been a while since I've looked at it but I think it's just a dpdt switch with two wires going to the end of two resistors. I'm guessing that flipping it just "ungrounds" them? Maybe I just need to take my super russian apart again to see how they did it:

This explains the creamy dreamer version... but there's a switch that you can do which is a "creamy dreamer." I want to know what exactly to do to make this work. I know it has something to do with emitter resistors... just not sure exactly how to execute this mod.

One thing to add... the creamy dreamer switch on my Wren and Cuff green russian is great. I need to figure out how to do that. I can't seem to track down exactly how to implement the mod. If anyone knows, please post!

Just looked at my notes and here are some things that worked for my last mudbunny build for bass after socketing a lot of components. Here's what really worked for me, and I did a ton of research. Some are Green Russian values already, but these are all the areas that I kept reading about and listened hard to component switches. Glad to share this a I had to compile it and put it together. But the muff I have is great. Really love it. Very versatile.

Tone:
R18: 22k
R19: 20k

Flatter mids
C13: 10n
C14: 10n

Coupling Caps:
C3: 220n
C4: 220n
C7: 220n
C15: 220n
C16: 220n

Tone caps:
C2 470p
C5 470p
C8: 470p

Clipping caps:
C6: 47n
C9: 47n

All pots B100K

Like I said, I didn't like the blend. If you have a good sounding circuit I don't think it's necessary, esp since you can always turn the fuzz way down and the vol up to get a quasi OD/boost sound, which is very useable for bass when you don't want full on fuzz. I played mine with a blend at first and just didn't think it necessary.

The Hoof mids knob is very good too, if you want to go that route. However, I think that building in flat mids is the way to go to have less fiddling. Kind of a set it and forget it thing.

Also, if you put the diodes on switches. Having all LED's gives you something closer to a Hoof/Fuzz sound. Open gives you more of an OD/BIG sound, silicon gives you a more traditional sound. Mix and match too.

I just built a green russian based muff on a mudbunny board for bass that sounds great.

A few things:
-- I put the diodes on switches for silicon/none/LED. Second stage was more of a dramatic difference for me, so if you have to do one, that would be it.
-- Basically replaced the 100n coupling caps with 220n caps and the 100n clipping caps with 47n caps. This gives it a much deeper and bigger sound and the clipping is more of a deep fuzz and not as much of a top end fizz.
-- I'll have to look at what I did for mids, but just replaced some caps to get more mids.
-- I tried a blend but didn't love it. Couldn't believe it, but I listened hard and it just didn't sound as good.
-- I used lower gain 2-400hfe transistors for the first three and a more modern higher gain for the last one. Another thing you'll read a lot about. People say it doesn't make a difference, but I could hear it. Higher hfe transistors were just too blasting for me. The lower HFEs sounded mellower and rounder to my ears.

I don't know where I'm gonna get my supplies! Really loved going to SB for everything even if it was a little more sometimes.

Also, the shop wasn't too far from where I live and they'd sometimes leave orders at a local copy shop down the street for pickup. That was amazing!

As far as I can tell, none of the pins are grounded. That would solve the issue right there.

I think I just need to put in a 3dpt switch and add a ground and LED connection. I was playing the pedal this weekend and it seems pretty important to know visually when the tone bypass is on.

This worked! You can see that the board has space for a PCB mounted dpdt switch. I just ran wires to a dpdt footswitch so that I can have easier access.

https://imgur.com/a/FDlP6zG

Are you saying to add a ground to Lug 4 of the dpdt switch?

Gonna just bump this. I have the pedal together. I ended up using a dpdt stomp switch for the tone. I can't figure out how to make the LED ground when the switch is engaged or not engaged.

3dpt switch might have been better, but just didn't end up using it. The dpdt switch doesn't ground, right? I'd have to find a component that grounds off of the switch, right?

Hi all,

I'm working on a mudbunny and I'd like to be able to switch between two cap values for flat or bumped mids. I've figured out the values I'd like to use. However, I don't have enough room in the enclosure for a switch. I'd like to use a pot instead as that will fit above the board and I can have a nice 2x2 knob layout.

Can someone tell me if I have the wiring idea down? I believe that I'd wire the input from the board to the center lug of a 100k pot. One leg of each cap would go on lugs 1 and 3. The remaining legs would be joined and the output wire back to the board would come off of this.

Does that sound right?