Messages

Not sure if this will be helpful or confusing ... but, maybe you could figure out the BPM of your track and use the known range of your delay unit and these formulas to train your ear for dotted 1/8'th's?

Delay Times

1/4 note delay
1/8th note delay
1/16th note delay

e.g. 108 bpm @ 4/4 time: 1/4 note = 108 bpm

1/4 note delay:

60,000/108=  556 ms delay time

1/8th note delay:

60,000/(108*2)= 60.000/216 = 276 ms delay time

1/16th note delay:

1/4 note delay/4=139  ms delay time

or

60,000/(108*4)= 60.000/432 = 139 ms delay time


Dotted 1/8th note delay:

   1/4 note delay*0.75=417  ms delay time

   or

   1/16 note delay*3=417  ms delay time

   or

   1/8 note delay+1/16 note delay = 414 ms delay time

   or

   60,000/(108*1.33) = 60,000/143.6 = 417 ms delay time

Yes! I think this is the way to go...
thanks

I just use my ear on my non tap tempo delays.  Not really helpful I know, but once you do it a few times you can find it pretty quickly.

thanks man!
yeah, maybe just need to invest some time on it...
cheers

Hey mates!
look, we are currently playing a song from Die Toten Rosen (Tage wie diese) and i was setting up the DD-7 of my friend in order to get the dotted eight delay.
My question is, do you know some trick to get the same with the Zero point DD or sea urchin without a Tap tempo?
the trial and error is exhausting...
thanks for any tip
cheers

I'm a fan of using alcohol inks to create interesting, very unique finishes. It needs to be clear coated with something non-solvent based, so that sort of limits things. I used Mod Podge (very lightly) in a crosshatch pattern and then apply spray acrylic. All this stuff you can get at Michael's or Joann Fabric.

Here are a few examples:

Those are amazing!
Beautifull work mate!!

I think we all have such demotivation with some things at certain points. I´ve been playing with a band for 6 months now (that´s why not much building posts from my side). Currently im not that happy with the way we sound and im thinking about to quit. I always wanted to play in a band but i think i needs to feel right. If you dont feel like building at this moment, just leave for a while. You are alredy doing other stuff and what is the most important for all of us, IMO, is that everything is related to music. Use this time to learn new licks, scales , etc..
The most important is to do what you feel like doing .
cheers

Wunderbar! Great build!

Thanks for the replies.

I'm going to use Soup's idea and put pins in the screw holes to support the enclosure - I like that.

I have glued the fabric to the box with Elmer's PVA glue and, taking into account what ggarms said, I will seal it with a diluted mix of the same glue. I've tested it and seems to work fine.

I will, of course, post piccies and my method when I'm finished. 

After u seal it I would suggest something regarding the ET coat!
After pre mix the ET, I would leave it for 15 min or more( u have to test if the ET viscosity is increasing) than pour it all over it. After another 15 min pour more on the edges and sides! This will allow you to cover the shrank parts...
It worked for me , not perfect but ok!
Good luck and please post it when finished   

I think soon we will see Brian's projects here updated for 3d printer...

Those are amazing! I'm not sure about the OP, but I'd love to know how you get such great results! I'd love to know how you do the lettering with them also.

Hi There, i can send you the information by PM if you want.
Regarding the letters. Its always the difficult part. What i´ve found out is the following:
First i print the labels in a transparent waterslide decall (lazerprint).
than, i print the same in a transparency, cut it, and i use it to paint the internal part white using a white pen.
after that, i applied the decall on the top or the white painted part and voilá.
its a little work , but the results are quite ok!
cheers

Hi there!
Here a couple of my swirl finshed pedals.
I´m using "magic marble" paint and no Borax needed, only a bucket with water and the mixing paints.
It´s very easy and im quite happy with results.
let me know if you want more information. will be glad to help!

I would love to go for the Voodoo side of the force

Yay! Did I just become a voodoooist?! 

I think there is enough evidence allready. I posted two short soundclips earlier showing different resonance for different woods. And the guy in your video unproof himself by showing that a heavier wood gives longer decay. What more do we need?

Another thing about the video; the guy sais that the material of the bridge makes difference. yes. of course it does. There is an interface where the string meets the bridge which is important. Then, in next interface the bridge meets....the body! Now, how can that interface be of no importance?  It might be less, but not none. No, it does not make sense. In a SCIENTIFIC perspective .

Cheerio

Hey voodoo child!
I think the guy said that there will be diff in decays and this will alter the sustain, but not the tone.
Man, there are really a lot of discussions out there( u tube r the best ones). Please check it out a video of a guy (DKGCustom). He build a strat in MDF and he compares with a solid body strat showing the signal using a software. No really differences.
A good point for the discussion would be why 3D printed guitars or acrylic sound quite nice?
To be honest it need to see comparing the signals.because my ears are not sensitive enough ( tone dead?    )
Cheers

Hehe, i'm back. and i'm out... For three days i got a bit dedicated... read through the earlier posted reports and found som 50 wrongs to pick on ... then i watched that first guy's video and got a bit pissed (posted above). Then i watched 40 minutes DKGCustom making a guitar body of a dinner table in particleboard, and read 10-15 comments. And... i just got deadly bored of the whole discussion ... is "jejune" a good word to use here?

It's like two guys discussing coca cola vs coca cola zero.
1: This sugared one taste so much better!
2: Nope, they taste the same, no difference at all!
1: Hell no! Use your taste buds fgs! Its like heaven and hell!
2: They taste absolutely the same. I can prove it! By SCIENCE! Look! Both are BLACK and have the same DENSITY!
1: Hermehhh.. no, they look and maybe smell the same but one of them taste SHIT!
2: the carbon composition of aspartame is the same as in SUGAR! I can prove it by MEASUREMENTS!
1: now wait a minute, i can do a chemical analysis and show that they are DIFFFERENT!
2: No, you can't prove it! Look at my results! Yea some ppl live their myth. I'm the SCIENTIST!
1: I don't need your measured results to convince my taste...

......... nope i'm out.

**********
It's been said earlier, can be said again: What a great forum this is; where theres no intention at all to let a subject like this - which obviously has caused heavy slanging matches out there - pass the dirty line (now if that makes sense in english? you get what i mean)

And hey Gledison! No offence at all (but your didn't read it that way huh?)
...and hope i didnt offend anyone either. If so, please tell me and i will apologize!

Now back dreaming of my upcoming build with a body in BLACK KORINA!

Cheerio!

Hey Bengt, no worries.
I think se all could go for ages discussing this. We could start bring string theory to show how all different wood particles behave like strings vibrating in diff atomic frequencies .... Heheheeh.
I would like to be a voodoist too but somehow still need to see the prove of concepts...and that was my point: there are people trying to show that tone wood is voodoo, wheatear the tone wood believers are not doing...
Cheers

I would love to go for the Voodoo side of the force

Yay! Did I just become a voodoooist?! 

I think there is enough evidence allready. I posted two short soundclips earlier showing different resonance for different woods. And the guy in your video unproof himself by showing that a heavier wood gives longer decay. What more do we need?

Another thing about the video; the guy sais that the material of the bridge makes difference. yes. of course it does. There is an interface where the string meets the bridge which is important. Then, in next interface the bridge meets....the body! Now, how can that interface be of no importance?  It might be less, but not none. No, it does not make sense. In a SCIENTIFIC perspective .

Cheerio

Hey voodoo child!
I think the guy said that there will be diff in decays and this will alter the sustain, but not the tone.
Man, there are really a lot of discussions out there( u tube r the best ones). Please check it out a video of a guy (DKGCustom). He build a strat in MDF and he compares with a solid body strat showing the signal using a software. No really differences.
A good point for the discussion would be why 3D printed guitars or acrylic sound quite nice?
To be honest it need to see comparing the signals.because my ears are not sensitive enough ( tone dead?    )
Cheers

Hey Gledison! Time to change foot again, right!!!

Cheerio!

Hey Vallhagen,
I do agree with some of your points as well, and i dont want to defend the guy on the video. I agree with ur comment that wood is not a totally homogeneos material but I agree as well that the frequency back from the wood would be an integral of all the different points and in the end has to be equal to the initial frequency (mostly from the bridge).
There is another interesting video where some guy apply diff frequencies and check which point will resonate accordingly using salt to show where is happening :S
I'm too far away to be able to discuss this point with my little experience, but as I said before, if you can just prove somehow, I would love to go for the Voodoo side of the force
Cheers mate!

This is a Long debate.
I've found this video, which is a bit long, but the guy shows the physics equations and what really affects the guitar frequencies.
Just to spicy it up a bit ! In the end, he compares experimentally 3 diff woods types.
I know there is a lot of Voodoo out there but I will stick with this untill someone proves otherwise!
http://youtu.be/svmOQuNC1Uw

Hey mate, another chemistry expert here but not much on etching, but I think ur etching solution is not the problem as u are getting a nice etch. I think that u should try the easier thing a first. perhaps your masking tape is too porous and the FeCl3 is penetrating  through it! I would choose tapes that have a good adhesion to metal and not paper backing.
pS:Cody 'a tutorial indeed is great!