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Wondering if it's possible or if anyone has wired the 2015 kingslayer with the buffered bypass of the first version and added the OD switch to the circuit to go from hard to soft clipping in the feedback path of the gain stage. I know there was a Pulldown resistor for the buffer, but was wondering if this could be added in line somewhere and if you can splice in the OD switch. I feel like the OG kingslayer was the best and just trying to recreate this. Thanks.

Awesome. Thank you!

Hey,

So, I got the Sharkfin to work on first boot

(Pretty bitchin' as I've tried two Tonepad boards and I could never get them going. If you're thinking about this pedal, the Madbean one is the way to go!)

Anyway, the internal trimmers can do some really cool stuff, to the point where it would be nice to have the ability to change the settings more readily instead of opening up the enclosure every time. Can I just sub out a 100k and 10k Linear pot for the internal Cermet trimmers, or is this not possible?

Thanks,
John

Flipping it was it

I still have a dead effect though...

Dead in both bypass and engaged. LED comes on and off as it should, but the ICs get hot to the touch. I'm assuming I have a short somewhere on the board. Audio probe the best method for this?

For real...

I'm going to make a test box now and save myself all this wiring around and headaches.

Close.

Looking at the diagram you posted, the negative of the DC jack is on the left - where the black wire connects. The 'top' point is the connection to the board, and the 'right' lug is the connection for the + side of the battery connection.

Jacob

I hear ya. Without a picture, I don't think it makes sense explaining it, but if you were to turn the one in the above so the black lead/weird tab is on the right hand side, i had the other two flipped. I'll try this and see if I get power, if not I'll change it back and see if there is something else.

Thank you everyone so far.

I think I may have an idea of what happened. Looking at the diagram, I wired the DC jack negative on the far right, the board and LED in what would be the top and the battery on the left. Looking at another diagram for wiring up jacks and switches:

http://www.guitar-mod.com/images/stomp_switching/NPN_LED_DC_jack.jpg

I may need to just flip the two positive lugs around and I may be good. This would explain why I ran into the same thing twice on two different boards with new components (or at least I'm hoping). I'll try this later today/tonight and post my findings.

Thanks for the help again.

Hello,

I am working on a kingslayer build and am running into problems which GeoFX debugging is pointing towards power problems, but I guess my question is more specific in regard to that. I have now tried to build this effect twice, with all new board (building two) and components minus pots, switches and battery terminal (DC was replaced). I have now run into the same problem on each. I get no sound at all, bypassed or not and no LED. I have tried doing one in true bypass configuration and the other in buffer, no change. Voltage was reading zero on the board. At this point, I feel like I may be missing something and I don't really know where else to look. I want to just give up. I have double checked my wiring and made sure there are no apparent shorts or miss-wiring. Does anyone have any suggestions or has run into anything similar on this project?

Thanks,
John

My guess the leads aren't making good contact within the socket. I would try testing it to see. It makes sense that it works when you solder it in it works if it's a contact issue.

High forward voltage means less clipping. Asymmetrical means that the forward voltage on one side is higher than the forward voltage on the other (typically most noticable at 2:1 or 1.6:1). You don't "have to" do anything in this case, it's going to be what you prefer.

Measure both types of diodes, then measure what you get when you put two in series.

Great, I'll give it a try. Thank you!

Hey,

So, I was just wondering if I use the 1n914s would I have to double them up like I would if I were using the BAT46?

Per the instructions:

"The soft clippers (D2, D3) should not be too low or too high
in forward voltage, so I suggest staying away from germanium and LEDs. I found BAT46 to
work very nice here in either asymmetrical (two on one side, one on the other) or paired up
(two in series on each side. 1n914 are another good choice. "

Thanks!

The problems that are potentially there are very large. Have you seen the tech help tips and suggestions thread? If not, take a good read through this: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=902.0

Jacob

Great, thank you. Also, by large do you mean "catastrophic failure" or "broad"? 

Thanks again!

Hello,

So I just finished assembling a Kingslayer and I opted to construct it in buffer fashion. When I hook the pedal up, supply a 9V and direct DC power, I am not getting sound in bypass or engaged and the LED does not light up. Does anyone know what I should do to try and fix this?

Thank you,
John