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for my two cents, I think there is something wrong with Q1/Q2 voltage.
both E legs go to ground and should not have any reading (I think), where Q2 reads 0.06
Q1 - 2.36, .63, 0
Q2 - 2.37, .63, .06
Given the sensitivity of trannies (and the option to experiment), I socket ALL transistors.  From your pictures, it appears that Q1/2 and the 78L are directly soldered to the board. 
I will defer to the wisdom of the moderator(s), as this is more an observation.
I am building the ZPSDX and am trolling similar builds on the lookout for possible build problems and the experience of others. 

if you don't mind drilling and painting yourself, "Bitches Love My Switches" sells cases reasonably priced, shrink wrapped and a bare finish that require very little sanding or polishing to get a really smooth surface.  I have used Mammoth and PPP, with no problems, but decided long ago that blank enclosures gave me infinite control over the final design and outcome.

Smallbear and Mammoth (both US based) carry these

I am still on adding parts to the board and came across what seems to be a typo and simply want to confirm.  The last page of the instructions talks about R48 and using a socket, but the last sentence makes reference to R31.  I will be socketing R48, and go on the assumption that it is a typo.  Thanks in advance.

I use PowerPoint for graphics and hole placement.  Draft copies get taped to a piece of cardboard and I then I cut out the holes with an xacto knife and mount everything.  I do a lot of measuring twice to drill once.  Doing the layout on cardboard helps with 3D so you can see where problems might occur with interference and such. 

The jimi youtube demo is one of the things that prompted me to do this build.  I had built an old Systech (think Zappa) on vero and also assisted Mr. P (Pink or Photon) in troubleshooting one of his builds on TBE which eventually led me to the video.  I had also built a SWAW which is great  (but I digress). 
The Honeydripper was a must build.  As far as the build goes, I socketed a few areas to allow tweaking options later, but as built, sounds great.  Tremendous range of sounds and very reactive to pick attack, strumming and pickup selection, as well as tuning the sweep.  I would not attempt to follow PJP with an audio demo, suffice to say, they both sound alike, albeit he loves to fiddle with the clipping options, my options are open with sockets. 

As far as the building DIY pedals go, a year ago this would have been a daunting task, but it actually went very well and I love the slightly larger solder pad holes on the Madbean boards which makes the solder flow nicely.

I am also working on my other Madbean pedal, a Zero Point SD build, just waiting on a few parts.
Thanks for the kind words.  For me, the two most important parts of the build are the gut layout and the graphics.  Typically, I end up spending about equal time on both.

First Madbean pedal, very nice indeed.

Thanks for the reply(s).  I have tants, but am leery given some of the concerns regarding their behavior at times.  Seeing that the designs calls for two at C11 and C22, c'est la vie, eh?  I think I will go with 2.2 electro at 38 and 43, and a tant at 50.  -thanks
- pete

Do not have 1uF electrolytic caps C38, 43 and 50.  Can I use 2.2uF?  Risk/Reward?
What about Tants or Film?
Thanks in advance
-pete