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Molten voltage mv64 chip can do this. Hooks on the mn3101. I did this with an Aquaboy deluxe build. Works very well. I am not sure if it is still available.

The high pitched fuzz was also a problem on Taylor's board. Look up the post on that on DIYSB. Taylor suggested some grounding on a certain part of the pcb but that did not help for me.My solution for that was to put a jfet buffer in front and it was gone.
I am still not sure why you have low output. Did you do any audio probing?
Did you already reflow all your soldering?

Thanks for the remarks.

I finally got my leds from Tayda and just installed them.
Works great. Levels from chorus to vibe to tremelo are now ok.
Different sound now on different settings but I think it works better now. Thanks for the suggestion!

I am trying to find the leds to try your mod. It seems hard to find yellow diffuse leds 2000-3000mcd here in the Netherlands. How important is the color and them being diffuse?

The yellow LED's from Tayda worked the best for me. They should deliver to the netherlands
[/quote] ok, I will have to find out if they deliver to me. Thanks

The other modes sound slightly changed, but nevertheless equally great. The Bias control reacts different, so you can dial in the deemed for sounds ;-)

Slacker on DIYS suggested changing R40 (larger) as it is part of a voltage divider for the tremelo level, but I have not had the chance to try that.

I tried that a couple of days ago and desoldered R40 - it did not change too much.

There is a post somewhere on the web that RM himself suggested to the one who posted that, that he had a simple solution like that. Never found what that solution was.

If you find it, make sure to post it here :-). If not, the LED-Mod is the most simple and effective choice, as it provides the best range from smoth tremolo to (almost) stuttering tremolo. It requires desoldering under the pots, though. For future builders, I recommend to socket the LEDs (and use the recommended LDRs).

I also had a question about the external speed control resistance (and taper), but I found an answer here: http://www.roger-mayer.co.uk/vibe+speed.pdf

I am trying to find the leds to try your mod. It seems hard to find yellow diffuse leds 2000-3000mcd here in the Netherlands. How important is the color and them being diffuse?

Did the change of the leds not just raise all the levels? Meaning the the tremolo is now at unity but still lower in level compared to the vibe and chorus?

Lookd fantastic mfunky and it probably sounds as great!

I tested the whole circuit with other LEDs (clear red ones) yesterday and achieved unity gain in tremolo mode without any of the above mods yesterday. I ordered yellow LEDs from Tayda as well (brenja said he used those). Brightness is the key, those have 2000-3000 mcd, the ones I had in had only 20 mcd.

Hi Mfunky,

I followed your endavours on the unity gain aspect. Did not have time to work on it myself.

The trick with the led's is something I might want to try. What is the effect of the changed led's on the vibe and chorus mode?

Slacker on DIYS suggested changing R40 (larger) as it is part of a voltage divider for the tremelo level, but I have not had the chance to try that.
There is a post somewhere on the web that RM himself suggested to the one who posted that, that he had a simple solution like that. Never found what that solution was.

It was a pcb from brejna using the switching of TH. Brejna included the relay and pic with the pcb
No kit.

Thanks for the kind remarks guys.
I have been trying to get rid of the popping but the 10m resistors made it worse.
I will have to find some time to solve this.

I have not seen any other builds posted? Surprising!

Ok, I will try those 'pop resistors' 😉

The tremelo is lower in volume than unity. I read somewhere that there is a simple fix ( but could not find the "fix")
How can I increase the output level just a bit?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xv1kguunn6bbe7q/Pangea%202015.pdf?dl=0

Thanks for the kind remarks.

I will try the 10m resistors. With the MBP weener wah II  there is two 10 m resistors bridging the 3 switch points. Would you do this with all 4 switch points in this case?

I got how the controls influence the tremelo. There is however quite a volume differene with the chorus or vibe mode when using the same bias and intensity values. I was just wondering if there was a fix for that. Maybe it is just the nature of the beast?

Thanks

Voodoo vibe or Pangea with Brejna's pcb.
This has been one of the most uncomplicated builds I have done. Altough it is not a simple build it just worked from the first instance. Great pcb and excellent design (thanks brejna)! not in the least by the fact that some of the more hard to obtain parts were included in the group buy.
It works really well. The cap selection pcb I etched myself and I used the caps recommended in the build doc. Good choice as they differ in a very nice way.

I have two things I would like to improve: 1- The cap switching pops when the pedal is just turned on. After you have switched it with the power on then it does not pop so much anymore. I am not sure which version of the switch I used, maybe I should have use a make before break? But I am not sure if that would fix it. Resistance to ground might influence the filter or not?
2- The volume of the tremelo is softer then the chorus and vibe. I guess getting that on the same level is not an easy fix?

Faceplate is a copperclad I etched and still needs some extra finish. Box is a 1790ns  size equivalent. Fits well. Relay switching by TH customs included in this design is great. i think I will use that more in some other builds.
I was looking for a long time for a voodoo vibe build project and iI am glad I found this.
Thanks to Brejna.

A voltage doubler with a ICL7660SCPA is not going to provide enough miliamps to work well with an ABDX. It might be the source of your problems.
Maybe swap that ICL7660SCPA for a LT1054. Watch out as they need a little different set-up.

I used a similar one ( i bought it elsewhere) for an Aquaboy deluxe. My roadrage would not keep the voltage close to 15 volt. This worked very well as an alternative. Kept the voltage very steadily.
But when I used it in combination with another unit that also had an internal clock the combination of more clocks caused heterodyning that I could not get rid of. Something to keep in mind. It might work for you and for the low price they are great.