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A bit late, but...THANK YOU for keeping me alive Brian, and all here.  Jimi, hope your wife is recovered!

Dude please. You kept yourself alive. The community just helped a little to keep the lights on while you recovered. As many of us would do for anyone who is NotAGeek.

But, I will say: no more 8-Balls for you at the dance hall on Saturday nights.

I've got a couple great things happening: we finally replaced my 21 year old Jeep (that caught on fire last year), paid cash, and my wife and I are just a few days away from being totally debt free (except mortgage). Both of those things have caused me considerable anxiety over the last few years and just like that, they are done.

I love the choice of artwork!

First time I've used a MadBean PCB and have a question on the LED pad.  I'm not using a separate bypass board (SSBP, etc).  Maybe I'm missing it but don't see an LED attachment referenced on the schematic.

The LED pad appears to provide a voltage source for the LED, with the 9v board voltage dropped across an R820 resistor.  So I'll still want a 1k+ resistor for the LED. 

Is this correct?

The LED pad is connected directly to the 9v source. So, if you are not using any bypass board you'll need to hard wire a CLR before your actual LED connects to the bypass switch.

No, I don't unfortunately. However, you could use a DM-2 calibration as a guide since the Anamorph is closely related. Here's a video of one. Let me know if it helps.

Voltages look good. I wouldn't worry about the exact clock freq as long as you are getting the appropriate delay times.

For the oscillation, you can reduce R45 from 100k. I would socket it and try incrementally smaller values, like 82k, 75k, 68k, etc until you get the result you want. That resistor was set high because I found it cleaned up the repeats a bit. But, it should be able to be reduced some until you get oscillation at the max feedback setting.

Correct,you can use that pad to connect to a CLR and LED.

Looks like you have it wired incorrectly.

You do not need to connect the 9v, BU or LO pads, but you do need to connect the HI pad (that's the voltage supply for the LED trimmer and LED).

So the following need to be wired to each other:
IN, -V, GD, +V, OU, HI, FS

And, make sure you used the correct jumpers on the bypass board according to whether or not you used the latching or non-latching relay.

Holy crap. That is art!

Brilliant idea and really straightforward in its design and application. I love delays with any kind of filtered repeats, like wah, phase, flange, etc. Excellent job!

Any updates on the Ego Death or its successor? Thanks!

It's going into the Standard Series and the design is done. I can add it to the next batch of releases.

Nice work! I did draw up a new version for the Standard series that fleshes out the circuit a bit more. But, I haven't breadboarded it yet.

Paul and I spoke a bit over PM in the last couple of days so I was aware this was coming. It's hard to find the right words like matmospehere said. Although your illness may be serious I hope you won't give into despair and keep up the good fight. You have friends here that care about you. And like I told you, your presence on this forum over so many years was part of making it such a welcoming and fun playground. I'll be sending you another PM shortly.

Let's all show love here.

I have about half the needed restocks in today, and the other half should be here by the end of the month.

In today: Back in stock: VFE Windbag, PorkBarrel, BoomBoom, ScareBear, Collosalus, SludgeHammer, BeanScream, Glasshole, StageFright.

Yes, but you should use a 1/4W (or 1/2W) for R59 which is 10 Ohm.