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Thanks for the comment and clarification.

I just finished my build.  I really like it -- fantastic tone.  But I notice that I get unity volume just past 12 o'clock on the volume knob (10KB) when the gain knob is set quite low.  Is that typical?  I subbed in a 25KB pot which helped a little bit, but I'm still seeing unity gain at about 12:00. 

I'm just comparing the Kingslayer to the schematic for the circuit upon which it is based.  I am curious about the Kingslayer's r9 -- the 10K between lug 2 of the "Dirt" control and GND.  What is the function of this resistor?  How does removing it affect the circuit?  Is it there before instead of the control being references to Vb as in the original circuit, it is now references to GND?

I just looked at the schematic again in light of your comments, and I now understand.  Thanks so much.

So if I only install one set of clipping diodes, wiring the "clip" switch pads together will just keep those in the signal path?

I have a Kingslayer board and would like to wire it so that I do NOT need to use the diode selector "clip" switch.  The reason for this is that I would like to wire in only one set of diodes (D4/D5).  How can I wire the board to bypass the "clip" switch and wire in D4/D5 as the only diodes in this position?

(I still plan on using the D2/D3 "soft" clippers, I just don't need the D8/D9 diode option in my build).

Hi...I've got a Kingslayer board I'm about to start working on, but instead of the 100KB (dual gang) gain pot I have a 250KB (dual gang) pot.  Does anybody foresee any difficulty if I use this?

Also -- would subbing the 10K volume pot for a 25K adversely affect the corner frequency of the output (would it "muddy" or darken the output)?

I am having trouble sourcing the proper Max1044scpa or TC1044scpa charge pumps for this project.  Is there a way to effectively omit the use of the charge pump and still have the circuit work (though I know this will affect headroom)?

I apologize in advance for one more Poindexter question.

I noticed that the schematic does not have the 10K trimpot that can be used to "balace" the face-to-face Q3/Q4 pair.  On some other Superfuzz schems I've seen, the 22K (R11 and R16 on the Poindexter schem) resistors before and after  Q3-Q4 run into lugs 1 and 3 of the trimpot, and lug 2 goes to ground.  I'd like to incorporate this into my build, which will be using one of the single sided etched boards courtesy of Haberdasher, so I'm wondering if someone can offer some advice on how best to do this. 

As far as I can tell, I could just connect wires to the "ground" end of each 22K resistor, run those wires to lugs 1 and 3 of the trimpot, and have a wire from lug 2 return to one of the ground pads for either R11 or R16.    Does this seem like a reasonable plan of action?

Thanks Brian...so helpful.  I'll report back when I've finished the job.

I am going to be building a Poindexter soon and I'd really like to include a switch allowing me to select different diodes.  I've never done this before.  In principle I understand what needs to be done, but can anybody walk me through how to actually do this?  I am guessing that wires will have to be jumpered from the pads on the board to the switch --- but what happens after that?  I'm not sure which lugs on the switch connect to those jumpers, or how to connect the diodes to the switch, or even what type of switch I would need (DPDT?  3PDT?).  I just want to be able to select between Ge diodes and Si diodes.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.