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I've ordered a couple from Fuzzdog. Pricey but the rest of the parts cost little.

I'm going to build a ZVex Fuzz Factory from this layout - http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/zvex-fuzz-factory-compact-layout.html but it requires 2 AC128 transistors. Are these readily available (in the UK)?

I found that Fuzzdog sells them here - https://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/AC128_Germanium_Transistors/p847124_15540300.aspx - but I have no idea what the hFE ranges mean (61-70, 71-80, 81-90, 91-100).

Any advice on the mysterious AC128 readily accepted!

Thanks for advice, guys. Still loving it.

Today I soldered up a Hearthrob tremolo on vero with the Hakko, and it was really smooth. Less dwell time on each solder joint, and good clean contact. Used less solder, too. Pedal worked first time. :-)

I love it that I can switch it off without worrying about how long it'll take to get back up to temperature. Oh, and the brass stuff cleans the tip like a champ.

I have a ton of greeny caps around from my early days. They're fine, just meter them to make sure you're close to spec and toss them in.

Just did a random check of some of them - all within about 5% tolerance. :-)

Thanks, guys. 

My Hakko FX-888D arrived today and I'm loving it. Set it to 350C and it feels wonderful. A nice solid clunk as it sits in its holder, way better than the worryingnly bouncy spring holder of my previous Antex 18w. And my solder joints are much better. 

I bought 100 polyester film caps from China off of ebay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231966163492. They arrived today. I can't see any manufacturer markings on them (although some have "DY" on them). So, I'm wondering if the quality of these will be OK. Anyone used these type of caps from China before?

While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder?   

The best bet in leaded solder, IMHO.  Less chance of a bad joint.

Much difference with 60/40? 3% difference?

[eutectic]

63/37 is vegetarian, low-fat eutectic solder.   

Then what is Pb-free solder?

While we are on the topic of life changing soldering:
Are you using 63/37 solder?   

It's 60/40 - the real McCoy, not the vegetarian, low-fat stuff. 

Thanks for the feedback.

As I feel the need for a life-changing event, I just ordered a HAKKO FX-888D. 

I'm looking to buy a soldering station, and wondering what folks are using these days. I've done a search on the forum which has provided some pointers but I'd like to get an up to date consensus, and also, if possible, options that can be bought in the UK. At the moment, I'm considering the HAKKO FX-888D, but if there was a cheaper option that would be good.

The stranded wire arrived today - works great. Using the Irwin strippers and then tinning the ends of the wires has led to a very robust build. I can even poke the tinned ends into a breadboard for testing. I would prefer to use single core, but the amount of mucking about I do means that it weakens very easily.

Thanks for replies. I'm not worried about it, just curious.

Fades out over a couple of seconds.

I'm using a GigRig modular power supply.

True Bypass.

LED wired to the stomp via a 2.2k CLR and then to positive as per this layout - http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k5Sh68yVU18/TzGRFKbiALI/AAAAAAAAAlk/CbfaaduUjYQ/s1600/!Offboard+wiring.png

Bear in mind I'm not talking about pressing the stomp switch, I mean when the pedal is on and then I power down at the mains / power supply.