Messages

Hi,

I'm working with breakouts on my 3PDTs, and I want to make sure I'm NOT burning them out when I solder. So, (PhotoRed1), do I solder the entire lug, (sides, hole, inside, etc.), OR (PhotoGreen1) solder the center of the lug and two connection blobs on either side, OR (PhotoYellow1) just put two blobs on either side of the lug? Using Rully, or GTR Pedal.com breakouts. Soldering PCB pins seems to be easier, (Ben's Detour PCB).

Thank you,

Great! Thank you both!!

Hi,

Paul @ DIYGuitarPedals.com posted a video regarding building a test box for DIY pedals. He used regular "star wiring" on the 3PDT, and used low voltage leads, (with alligator clips on the end), for In / Out / Ground / 9V. I'm wondering if I can use a "breakout" on the 3PDT for easier connections? Planning on using either Ben's (RullyWow) basic, or Barry's basic (GTRPedals.com).

Thank you for the help!

Thank you, Ben. I'll be making some changes to the rebuild...NOT putting the momentary in the way. Can you or anyone answer my questions about cutting length of the transistors and socketing them more easily, and how to BETTER wire the IN/OUT/DC jacks?

Thanks again...

Part III... LED part II. From all my readings the + lead of the LED goes into the square pad of the breakout...(LED2 pic)... correct? Moment1 pic just shows my solder joints, and placement of the wires of the momentary switch to the PCB. Solderjoints1 pic show the momentary joints (green), and the connection joints (red) from the breakout to the PCB. Potjoint1 shows joints of the volume pot. Finally, I saw a video from Paul P. (diyguitarpedals.com) about using Blue Tack to hold various components in place. Very helpful for resistors, caps, diodes, sockets, etc. I am very careful to clean joints and boards with 99.9% IPA after each component is connected. Any other ideas that can allow me to be successful are invited!

Thanks for all your help

Part II... In all build docs I always see socket ICs and Transistors... (transist1 pic) shows one of my transistors which is kinda mangled. Am I cutting too short? Is there some lubricant that builders use to make it easier to get them in the sockets? Wiring IN/OUT/DCs...jack1 pic is of my completed IN jack with heat-sink. However, the solder really doesn't stick to the jack itself, and one gets a messy bloob...(wire1 pic). Do most builder feed the wire through the hole, and then twist it around itself...(wire2 pic)... or do something else? Lastly LEDs. I mark my + lead with a red marker, (LED1 pic). I'll show the rest of the pics in the next post...

Hi,

This is going to be a multi-part post due to number of attachments. I just got my first pedal together yesterday, plugged it in, and....NOTHING! Bypass was fine, but engaged rendered a "cycled" static sound, and NO LED. Ben, (from RullyWow), suggested the following. (...it sounds like you have a dead short somewhere. No LED and if the power cycles...it's probably your power supply detecting a short circuit between GND and +9V and cycling on/off. See if you have a short between the power and GND with a DMM.). I had already torn apart the pedal for the photos I'm uploading by the time I read this, so I couldn't test. Anyway, if anyone sees a screw-up in any of the pics please let me know. I'd like to start building boxes that work over fancy paper weights..

Complete1 pic shows the entire pedal. 3PDTsolder1 pic shows the job I did soldering the stomp to the breakout. I was a tight fit to begin with so maybe this was part of the problem? Inoutjacks1 pic, and injackmoment1 pic showed my screw-up with the momentary. It blocked the In jack from successfully making a connection! Lastly for this part...DC1 pic just shows the heat-sinks on the DC jack. Part II coming next...Thanks

Hi,

I have about 35 of these 2N2907s that I can't use. I need the 2N3904 or 2N3906 type set-up of the 2N2907, (E,C,B right next to each other, and not the Germainium type set-up). Anyway, instead of me pitching them if someone could use them just send your address info to me via P.M. I'll send them out to you...don't want anything in return...just to get rid of them.

Thanks

Thank you Tdub! Very helpful!!

Mouser doesn't carry 50n Caps. Next step up is a 56n, but it's listed Non-Stocked so I guess I go with the 47n. Big component...16.5mm! guess I'll have to do some creative squeezing.
Thank you

Also, for the Carbon Films... 1/8W or 1/4W? The PCB is kinda cramped, and I given the option of 3.5mm length (1/8W), or 6.8mm length (1/4W). Both are 5% tolerance. I have 1/4W Metals (1% tolerance).

Thanks

Hi,

I'm gathering components for an etched version of this PCB, and I have a question on the C2 size. The build doc. gives me a link for a 47n (Cornell Dublier) capacitor. However, the parts listing calls for a 50n cap. ? Will the PCB work with a 47n cap?
Also, I have electros for C3/C6 from Paul's, (DIYGUITARPEDAL.COM), supply. Can I use these? It recommends using Carbon Film Resistors in certain places, but recommends using Metal Film for R2/R4. Again, these I have from Paul's stock.

Thank you, as always!

Hi,

This is a VERY stupid question...BUT. I just received an etched copy of Pepper Spray, (copper on one side, plastic or whatever on the other). I re-read some old tip material, and saved myself a wasted PCB. I always thought that the "body" of the component sat on the copper side, (leads through to the blank side). Now I know I've got to feed the leads from the blank side to the copper, and the components sit on the blank side. TRUE?
Also, on a silk-screened PCB where I can see outlines and markings of various components. I match up the individual component, (i.e. diode with black line facing left), with the diagram on the PCB, and solder to the non-silked side. Again, TRUE?
My biggest concern is PCB mount Pots/Switches. Do I solder on the silk side?
I believe from observation/drawings that when soldering Non-PCB Pots/Switches one would feed the wire in through the silk side, and solder to the other. Is this true as well. Sorry for so many parts to this question.
Answers can be, if correct, True, True, True, and solder to silk side or "top", or whatever is correct if I have a False in there somewhere.

Thank you!

Hi,

This question has to do with pedal protection AFTER painting. I'm planning on using Acrylic primer and paint for the enclosures I do paint. I may be doing some partial painted pedals, leaving the top bare metal if my decal has color in it. Anyway, a site called Planet Z has instructions on preping enclosures prior to painting, priming and painting the enclosure, setting a waterslide decal on the pedal, and adding a "clear" protective layer after. Additionally, I have seen Paul's videos, (DIYGuitarPedals.com), on painting, just wondered what other builders do.
The gentleman at Planet Z uses an InkJet to print his waterslides, then sprays Krylon Acrylic Crystal Clear evenly over the surface of the decal prior to putting it in water so as to prevent decal from running. Once the decal is in place on the enclosure, he brushes on PolyAcrylic over the entire thing...up to 4 coats. His final step is to use paste finishing wax, and buff the surface for additional protection.
Again, just wondered what other builders do IF they use decals. I'd like to use them, especially around Pots, so users have an indication of volume, gain intensity, etc.
Thanks

Progress! Paul @ DIYGTRPedals.Com has a download with 40+ pedal graphics that one can download. Saves lots of heart-ache messing around with GIMP or PSP or Corel, etc!! Thank you, Paul!