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I just finished putting together a Krankasaurus, with a board I etched myself, and noticed that the gain/drive section sounded really woolly/fuzzy. The boost section sounded fine. I checked first to see if there were any solder bridges but everything looked ok. After double checking the parts I did noticed that the value for R5 was 430k instead of 470k. The place where I buys parts must have accidentally sent me a 430k resistor instead of a 470k. I never bothered to check the color code and just assumed they sent me the right stuff. Anyway, I wanted to know if this is the reason why it's not sounding right. I can't think of anything else that might be causing it. Thanks for the help gang

hahaha...very cool! I love super hero themed pedals

That's not true bypass If you are wiring it in that way. I think you should use the stock true bypass wiring you can find on the projects page.

Jacob

Hey Jacob,

So I wired it up according to the Madbean 3PDT method found on the peoject page and it worked, both engaged and bypass. However, and this may all be sociological, but it sounded better before when the bypass wasn't working. It might just be ear fatigue Any thoughts?

And I'm curious, according to the Sunking V3 doc., Madbean states that "If using a 3PDT, wire the two outside columns of lugs, leaving the middle column completely unconnected." Could you please explain why that is suggested instead of the standard 3PDT wiring diagram? And/Or maybe show how to correctly wire according to the doc. w/o using that mid column.

Hello,

I just got at V3 Sunking PCB and want to wire it 3PDT TrueBypass. I removed C3, R3, R28, 29, R30, and added RTB (1M) as per the directions. I also left S1 and S4 unconnected as instructed. The effect works when engaged but does not work in bypass mode. Perhaps my wiring is incorrect. This is how it looks currently:

Amazing build! Looks great

This is fantastic! A+ sir

Great idea!! Is would be crazy if they were all dual-color changing, you'd have a whole light show on your board..

Hahaha! That would be awesome!

Eight arms to rock you!  Awesome job.  How did you do that decal over black?  It looks great.  I love my deadringer as well.  I noticed the only difference between it and a fulldrive 2 was that unity gain was a bit higher on the dial on the deadringer (something like 2:00, vs. about 11:00 on the fd2.).  Minor difference.  I like to stack it with other overdrives, so i actually prefer the deadringer's lower output. 

I noticed the same thing with the DeadRinger vs the FtFd2. Other than the unity gain they sound identical.

I didn't use a decal on this one. I actually had it laser engraved at a local trophy shop. I took them a plain black enclosure with my design idea and they did their magic on it. Basically they blast it and remove the paint to reveal the aluminum underneath.

Roctopus

booooo... Guts shots are my favourite part!

How do you find it? Tell us more about why you love it!

Jacob

hahahaha...I'll post some guts shots later for sure

I love it cause it has my little logo on it and because it is indeed a "DeadRinger" to the Fulltone Fulldrive 2. I'll probably end up selling my FtFd2 and only use the Roctopus

Here is The Roctopus!
It's MB's DeadRinger (Fulltone Fulldrive 2). I love this pedal



Sorry but I don't have any guts shots

Here is the Lover(at)
It's MB's Slow Loris (ProCo Rat) w/mod. I love it when the lights flicker

Here is my "Light Bright" V1 Timmy Clone.
I built this using Mad Beans Timmy schematic. Thanks so much MB!
The pots are clear shaft pots I got from small bear along with the clear knobs.

Ok...so super rookie mistake. I wired the 2 Red LED's wrong. I'm so ashamed.....please forgive me DIY Masters

Hahaha! Totally loved the "Like A Lion" riff in the demo Great build dude!

Thanks Jacob,

I went back and doublechecked the parts and they're all the correct values and in the right place.

I also checked for solder bridges and couldn't find any.

I rewired the jacks and now the pedal works in both bypass mode and engaged.

All seems to be fine now however the 2 red LED's still don't light up in the third toggle position. This would be fine however I wanted to wire them externally to add to the cosmetics of the pedal. It also seems to me that there's no tonal difference between position two and positions three on the toggle.

Any suggestions?

Roctopus