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Here's my build of the upcoming Deadringer revision. So far everything is checking out. I will have the revised documents and info up at the end of the week.

Yes, its OD/Bass/Treb/Vol. It's fitted for a 1590B, too. Only thing I don't have is a name for the project

You are more or less correct. The switch doesn't ground anything, but rather when the two outside portions connect with the center pin in their respective positions, the internal clock of the 4017 is reset. The clock will cycle through on its own through however many outputs are used (there are two unused ones in the Dig Dug) until or unless it is interrupted and reset. D4 blocks signal flow through the circuit and sends it directly to pin 15 which is the reset pin. That makes the cycle start over. So, depending on what output you do that from, that's the number of steps in your sequence (you see from the schematic that the number of steps is actually n-1 steps - the switch connects P5B which means the cycle is 4 steps).

Very nice and very clean, Paulo. Try 22n for C1. That should remove the excess bass. Or, socket C1 and try a few values over/under 22n to see what works best for you.

Doc,

I'll do this for future releases. The .pdf's are set up so if you print with no page scaling it comes out the exact dimensions. But, it's no problem to include the measurements, too.

The layout is done now. I will build it early next week and release it as soon as it's verified

The yellow ones I bought at a local electronics shop...don't know the brand. The others are NTE's which I bought at Fry's

Here are two ways to do it. The first one uses a series resistance with C2. When the blend knob is turned up, resistance decreases and the two caps work in parallel, increasing the overall capacitance. When it's all the way down, the resistance is at maximum. You need to use a good sized pot for this...maybe 500k.

The second one blends the signal between two parallel caps. Make C3 the larger value in this case...IIRC.



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I'm thinking of ordering multiples of WIMA box film caps from futurlec so I won't have to struggle every time I start putting together a pedal.

What are the most important values (read: most commonly used) to keep around for effects pedals?
So far I'm thinking

1n x2
2n2 x1
4n7 x1
6n8 x1
10n x2
22n x1
47n x1
68n x1
100n x3
220n x1

I edited the list to what values I would order. Pick the smallest # you want to order (say 10 caps) and then use the multiplier I put next to them to get the best spread of values. The multiplier reflects, in my experience, the frequency with which you will use those particular values. So, if you order ten 47n's, then order thirty 100n's and so on.

Update: starting Monday I will be devoting the entire week to catching up on all orders. I can't apologize enough for these delays, I feel, but it has been unavoidable. The good news is we are finishing off our work on the house today so I will be able to devote much more time to madbeanpedals (minus occasionally vacating the house so the realtor can show the place).

I will be issuing some refunds on shipping for orders that have taken too long to ship (in my opinion) to make up for the lengthy delays.

Once I am completely caught up on outstanding orders I will open up the store again for about 2 weeks. It will close again to prepare for our move to Nashville.

Once we are finally re-located, I will have my own detached shop (it's going to be awesome!) which I can work in at all hours of the day and night. So, this should lead to a huge boost in productivity on my part as I will no longer be limited to the hours I can work. This means staring around July you can expect very fast turnarounds as well as a deluge of new projects coming out (I have about 20 new ones in different stages of completion).

One other bit of exciting news is that I have 7 boards being prototyped for manufacturing right now. The plan is to migrate some of the more popular projects to manufactured boards over the next few months. Especially the larger, more complicated projects. At some point, I will open open a 'suggestion box' on what projects people would like to see come in manufactured boards.

I also wanted to mention that the actual range through which you are able to make adjustments on the trimmer is very short.  I don't know what you could do to be able to fine-tune this better.  Maybe a multiturn trimpot would give you more room to dial in, I dunno.

You could use a smaller value for the trimpot...5k.

This all has got me thinking: it would be interesting to try this thing out at 18v. I've got a project coming up called the "Glazer" which is a three-band active EQ that uses a charge pump to run the IC off +18, -9v, similar to how the Klon clean section operates. It could be an interesting modification to the Orange Squeezer...lots of clean sparkly headroom. Add in a clean blend, and then you've got something really similar to the Barber compressor. I might put that on the backburner to check out at a later date. It could make an exceptional compressor. Having built the Ross compressor from Tonepad, I do prefer the Orange Squeezer...it seems to have a little more character to it.

is regulated, tried subbing every ic, transistors are mpsa18. i will have to check all resistors but i think i got them right.

whitch is the best way to unsolder parts? i tried with vacuum pump and it cant get all solder out

Try heating the solder from the top side of the board with your iron and put the pump on the bottom side. So, you can heat it and suck it up at the same time.

If this doesn't work, try adding a tiny bit of solder to the pad, then use a de-soldering braid to suck it up. Sometimes adding that solder actually helps. Be careful not to overheat.

is there any difference between v3205d and v3205sd? mine are sd, i ordered from small bear

According to the Cool Audio website, the SD is the normal designation of the part. I think they are probably the same thing.
http://www.coolaudio.com/docs/datasheet/V3205SD_DATASHEET.pdf

Probably not in this case.

Less punch? Hmm...have you tried measuring the actual voltage you are getting from that power supply? I think it might be over 9v.

As far as the shielded wire, it will be one wire surrounded by the braided shield. The way you do it is cut one end, and expose the inner wire. Solder that to the FX output on the board. Make sure you trim away the braided portion completely on that end. On the other end, expose the inner wire. That gets attached to your 3pdt. The braided part gets rolled up together. You might want to solder a small piece of wire to that and then that gets attached to ground. So, one end it grounded, not both.

You can find this stuff at most electronic supply stores.