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This is actually the plan, more or less, for the pages I'm going to eventually create for the individual projects. There will be some analysis and explanation of the circuits and a comparison to classical effects, when appropriate. It's a long term project, but I will start creating the pages when time allows.

There are some instances where it's helpful. It can act as a control for bass frequencies. For example, in a fuzz, it can give you more control over how much bass you allow to go into the circuit. Another example is the Timmy. The set up is similar, except that the control comes off the inverted pin of the first op-amp, allowing you to alter the point at which the frequency roll-off of the clipping occurs.

It doesn't matter, but the easiest way on this layout is to have Gain1 go to the top row.

This seems like a really interesting flanger. Definitely reminded me of some old Cure tunes. Lot of interesting sounds to be had-->Homebrew Frost Bite Flange

It isn't necessary. They are connected mechanically inside. I connect them with my wiring because it preserves ground if the switch fails.

Just to summarize, there are two jumpers under the BBD that need to be set depending on which version you are building. MN3005 go one way, and MN3205/v3205 go the other.

Super cool. Bonus points for putting it in a 1590A!

Here's the build notes on the MU that tells you how to do the stock clipping. Be sure to follow the component list for rev.1 of the board: there were a few value changes.

Attached.



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Progress has been made! This tub is about 4" deep 



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Yep. No problem subbing that. Also, it really means 20k, not 20kB. Most trimpots are linear (maybe there are some audio but I've never seen one used).

Probably something like this: http://www.vishay.com/docs/28132/mkt368.pdf

Ceramics (pF)
47x1
100x3
220x1
330x1
470x2

Electrolytic (uF)
1x3
4.7x1
10x3
22x2
33x1
47x2
100x3
220x1

Resistors are harder because there are too many values. Here are some of the most used:
100R
220R
470R
1k
1k5
1k8
2k2
2k7
3k3
3k9
4k7
5k1
6k8
8k2
10k
12k
15k
18k
20k
22k
27k
33k
47k
56k
68k
82k
100k
150k
200k
220k
390k
470k
510k
1M
2M2
10M

Order a few batches of 100 each from effects connection or 200 each from Mouser over time and you will save a lot of money down the road. I have all these values (plus others) in quantity and I almost never have to hunt down one.

I have built the Aquaboy using the MN3005 and v3205, but not the MN3205. Other than making sure the jumpers on the board are done correctly, there should be no adjustments. The only thing that I can think of off the bat is that you should socket R19. Try the default 22R first. That should work fine there, but just in case you have trouble passing delay it may need to be increased slightly.

The biggest problem with the Ross Flanger is that it utilizes a SAD1024. These are really hard to come by and quite expensive (~$40). It would need to be converted to an MN3007 format, similar to the A/DA Flanger project on diystompboxes.

I won't rule anything out..but it could be a very involved process to bring it to fruition. I do plan on offering a flanger project in a couple of months. Maybe we can touch base then and talk some more about the unit you have. I don't think there is a proper schematic of it (at least I didn't find one in five minutes of looking!)

Here's my build of the upcoming Deadringer revision. So far everything is checking out. I will have the revised documents and info up at the end of the week.