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Can it be as simple as installing a DC jack with + and - swapped? Or do I need to rely on a RoadRage?

Thanks!

So probably the second thing I learned when I was taught to solder was - a dull joint is a cold joint. Reflow it so it's nice 'n' shiny. (The first thing was, don't touch that. It's hot.)

Well I've got som new solder (Cardas Tri Eutectic - silver bearing, lead-free) and no matter how I try, how hot I crank my iron up, the joints always go dull when they dry. Some are a little shinier than others, but they're all kind of dull, not mirror shiny like 60/40.

Super-shiny and beautiful when molten, dull when solid. I built a Firebomb with the stuff and it works and sounds great. So I think it's okay, but need some advice from the fellas who know

And the other thing is I'm having some issues with the high melting point of this solder. Any advice about how NOT to melt the crap out of everything? Hahahaha.

Thanks!!!

maybe add a switch for all those changes and have the slo and boogie in one pedal ?

that's what i'd like to try

I was thinking the same thing!

Buffered. The Sunking's buffer sounds great!

Beautiful!

Dig those knobs, man. Where can I get some?

LED doesn't light means either the LED needs to be reversed, or it is not wired properly to the switch.

Not sure about #2. Does the second one work if the first one is off?

Yes. #2 does work - as long as the volume is dimed.

I'll check the LEDs direction. I triple-checked them before putting them in, but I may have still gotten it wrong.

Thanks!

So! I've asked this question to some fellas I trust (SLO geeks). They recommended:

1 - Remove r15
2 - Remove c13
3 - Remove presence pot
4 - The rest - experiment by ear

So - my build is done and I have a few problems. They are:

1 - Neither LED lights
2 - When the 2nd SHO is engaged, there is no volume unless the volume (middle) pot is turned all the way up

Gut shots may come about eventually, I just won't have time to snap any until the end of the week. So, hopefully we can brainstorm without them

Thanks again!

I can't find AD712, just AD712XX where XX can be all kinds of things. Which will work [best]?

Thanks!

Beautiful! 9v is all she'll get!

PICS SOON!

Got the board populated, the other caps are 25v or 50v. C3 (47µf) is 16v. Trouble or OK?

Thanks again, fellas, for helping me with my dumb dumb questions!

Is this something that I need to worry about? I never have before, but a couple of fellas I know INSIST on it.

What are y'all's thoughts?

+1. I'd LOVE to take on such a thing!

I'll take silence to mean, "25v or better, dummy."

Got it

I had the hardest time finding them, too. Mammoth Electronics (mammothelectronics.com) just got some in, Panasonic ECQ-v1h series in .39µf