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So this BOM shows 2.2uf FILM caps for 3 spots. I've never seen anything larger than a 1uf film cap in pedal projects so needless to say I don't have the 2.2uf film ones.

Can I still use a 2.2uf electro in it's place? If so, what are some possible differences?

I don't have any more ordres to make so paying $8 for shipping for 3 caps from Mouser is something I'd like to avoid  guess.

So I think I'll just go ahead an embarrass myself right here because well, I deserve it. When you get my age, 56, your mind just doesn't work right. Brian, I don't need those resistors but I do still need the transistor. I was thinking in terms of 1/4W and 1/2W. I have plenty of 1/4W resistors. Sorry Brian 

Much appreciated Brian. I'll do my best to make your circuit look proud 

I can mail you the BS250 and 1/4W resistors. You still in Nash?

Holy Moly. That would be great. Yep, still am, technically in Hermitage. I just ordered a board from you yesterday I think.

Are you running low or out of anything? I'm sure your stash is mucho greater than mine but maybe you are needing something?

Thanks Brian. I may see if someone wants to trade anything and pick it up that way. Yeah, all I have in those values are 1/8W so I'll see if anyone has some of those too and hopefully they need some stuff I might have.

1. Is there a work alike transistor for the BS250p? Literally the only thing I need is that and just ordering that from Mouser will be an expensive transistor.
2. How important is the 1/4 ratings on those 5 resistors? I do have some 1/4 watt stuff but not those values.

I use:
Kester 24-6337-0027 Solder Roll, Core Size 66, 63/37 Alloy, 0.031" Diameter

63/37 is a eutectic alloy that makes soldering much easier than, say 60/40.  I don't have any experience with 97/3.

+1


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+2

Lead free will lead someone to drink and if you already drink you will become an addict.

Thanks for looking at this Jon.

Wow, Banzai thinks highly of theirs 

I may just go in a different direction as there are plenty of compressor PCB's out there.

The ranges are very different, 112 dB for the 5C9 versus 79 dB for the 5C10. The timing are even farther off: The 5C9 takes 4 times longer to turn "on" (4ms versus 1ms) but its decay is only 50ms, which is very, very fast compared to 1.5 seconds (1500 ms) for 5c10.

http://sportsbil.com/mcintosh/Amps/LDR%20vtl5c9_c10.pdf

If you post a schematic, I could tell you how much this might matter. If the circuit is relying on the 5C10's slow decay (there is at least one pedal compressor that historically did this), then you have your work cut out for you if you want to sub. For instance, if there aren't timing capacitors, then the 5C9 might result in pumping because of the slow decay and very very high dark resistance.

Hey Jon. It sounds like I need to punt in all likelihood to sub this one in. The site says it compares to the Demeter Compulator. The only schematic I can find is contained within the PDF on the site itself https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/constrictor/

Maybe one of the other 5c's might work.  I think Small Bear had a few more. Actually maybe I just need to build another compressor!

So, I'm going to build a compressor called the Constrictor from PedalPCB. It calls for a VTL5C10 but I can't locate anywhere. I can however find the VTL5C9. Is it a good swap.

Below is the data sheet description. As it relates to how the compressor would act I have no idea if the '9' is swap worthy for the '10'. Anyone else have a thought or ten?
-

VTL5C9 has a 112 db dynamic range, fast response time, high dark resistance, but with a more shallow slope and lower "on"
resistance at low (1 mA) drive currents than the VTL5C1. VTL510 offers a low "on" resistance at low drive currents, a fast response
time, and has a smaller temperature coefficient than the VTL5C9.

Just took a leap and ordered a ton of things from Tayda. I figure I have to order from someone. I guess I'll hold my breath.

Ok, so space is the issue. Thanks guys.

Bio I actually ran up on your thread after posting and grabbed those pics. Great looking build.

When you say the standard 11mm electro's won't fit do you mean they are too high for board that goes on top?

Necro bump.

Hey Gordo, I just got my board and went over the document and am in the process of ordering any parts I don't have. I was curious to know if you had any other pics you took but didn't post?

I plan to follow the build docs to a T. Do you have any idea what the difference is in the bypass methods? I didn't understand what one did versus the other.

I noticed you mentioned the WIMA caps. What are your thoughts on why one must use those as opposed to other box caps?

Oh man, so sorry Brian. Devastating I know.

The pic below was our Natalie for 13 years. The pic was taken on Sept 25 when she was sick and on Sept 29 after 2 days in the vet ER we had to make the call on her due some type of lung infection they couldn't figure out. Typing this right now make my eyes well up and sadness comes over me. I still need more time I guess. Hang in there as like you said time is the only way to lessen the sadness.

Why don't you try a different type of pick? Material/shape/thickness.

You know, I have tried so many picks over the years and I keep going back to a pick I'm comfortable with, ie. stays in my freaking fingers!. However, to your point I actually have a couple metal picks a friend got me. Generally I didn't like how those sounded on my Taylor or electrics but you just reminded me of them so I'll try on this guitar in particular to see what I think.

Anyone here like metal picks?