Messages

Great...Thank you!

I have a few of these "roto-boards" I picked up at GuitarPedals.com. You can basically place four (4) sets of different diode combinations on the board, and use the rotator switch to choose which set is active. Not sure if it's compatible with the Mudbunny PCB though. I assume that I'd still connect this board to D1 as I would if using a DPDT. Could someone let me know if this would work or not?

Thank you

Great feedback. Have a flux pen, so I'll do that!

Do I use additional wire when connecting D5 &6? OR, just use the lead of D6 to connect to the right lug of D1/2, (cutting the negative lead of D5), and do the reverse with D5 to connect to the left lug of D3/4? Sorry if I explained it in a more complicated way than needed, just going by what I see from the diagram.

Thanks

Sorry, one more question. Are the wires connecting the diodes to the switch just plain old "hook up" wires...24 or 22 gauge?

Thanks

I realize I need room on the switch to solder the diodes. Found this one at BLMS... http://www.bitcheslovemyswitches.com/#!/DPDT-ON-ON-ON-TOGGLE/p/36073610/category=5324038
Would this one work?

Cool...Thanks again!

Hi,

I'm planning on beginning work on an etched PCB version of Pepper Spray. Obvious difference, no solder pads. Are there adjustments I need to be mindful of when soldering on an etched board vs fabbed?

Thank you

Thanks. Where do I solder the two wires coming from the middle lugs to on the PCB?

Thank you. My wiring diagrams on both boards is correct though?

Hi again,

It states in the build doc. "Alternatively, you can use either an SPDT or DPDT wired in either spot to allow you to switch between different diode types on-the-fly." This is with respect to the D1-D4 clipping diodes. Just wondered if the attached Pic. is properly wired?

Thanks again,

Hi,

I know Rabbit Hole is out, but I have two unused Mudbunny PCB's that I might as well use. Anyway, I use a breakout to wire the 3PDT, and I'm including two pics to make sure I'll be wiring things properly, (there are two inputs). Pic 1 is using Ben's breakout, (circles: do I need to include R25 since it looks like it's the LED CLR?). Pic 2 is using Barry's from Guitar PCB.com.

Thank you

After looking at the signal wire on the IN side of the breakout, (in my magnifier), I do see that I scaled it while soldering the 3PDT! There's a bit of exposed wire about 1/8" of the way up from the connection into the breakout as well. That'll do it, huh? NEED TO BE MORE CAREFUL! Anyway, 9V is correct, and LED leads are about 1/8" away from the 3PDT metal tab. Is it prudent to use a socket on the LED or should I go with direct contact with the breakout?
Also, as long as the lugs are horizontal does it matter which side is which with regard to the 3PDT? I notice there's a small marking on one side, and smooth on the other.
Doing a rebuild, I guess. All part of the pain of beginning.

Thanks

Yes, you're right. Sorry. Pic A is of the entire unit. Pic B is of the 3PDT. Pic C is of the socket for the LED...sorry little blurry. Hope these help.

Thank you

Hi,

I decided to go with Ben's suggestion, and build the box with a 4 way speaker terminal. Used some "basic" IN/OUT jacks, and Ben's 3PDT breakout. Problem is if I only have the DC jack connected to the enclosure, the LED is lit. If I touch either one of the IN/OUT jacks to the enclosure the LED goes out, and I think I'm getting a spark. Wired everything properly, grounds, 9V, signal wires to the IN/OUT. For now, I'll just use it with the jacks away from the enclosure. If anyone has any ideas, I'm open to suggestions...

Thank you