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I'm going to ask a stupid question and plse don't take this as an intelligence insult but did you correct all the mistakes on the board as outlined (The jumper, resistor and trace cut)?  I myself have forgot to correct board errors outlined in the bdoc.

The meaning for the chip letters are on their data sheets.  The ones you used are what I would have used for the build.  Most of the time the letters indicate packaging info.  But when in doubt check the data sheet.

As far as the cap I don't think it would cause that huge of a drop but someone else who is smarter than me can answer that.

If you corrected all the board mistakes go back over and reflow all your solder points and look for bridges between pads.  Make sure your off board wiring is correct and there are no stray wires touching. Posting a picture (front/back) can also help when it comes to troubleshooting.  Some of the guys on here can spot problems quickly. 

No, you don't. The world needs more doctors like yours.
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Never even considered the truth in your statement.  I have docs that give you Motrin for pain.

If you've seen this disregard.  If I remember correctly I believe I read in there that MB used a band saw to cut his plates.  I am the in same position as you. I bought a bottle of Ferric a month ago and it stares at me every time I go to the garage. 

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/builds/reports/zpsdx/p2.html

Seem to have this problem with a few pads on every board.  Most take solder well then I get Twi or three that I have to keep at to get it to flow.  Using Kester solder also. I thought it was just me. 

I like this a lot better than the alligator clips on helping hands.  The only time I use mine is when I have to extract something out of a board. 

Otherwise I just use the tabletop to keep everything in place.  I just have to make sure my fingers don't stick to the board when I move.

https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjustable-Circuit-Holder/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1516372054&sr=8-3&keywords=pcb+holder

The 24 gauge stranded wire at Smallbear is superb IMO and priced right.  GuitarPCB also has some really good wire also.  This is not a knock against solid core but when I've used it and I've had a problem come up it doesn't take a lot of movement well and seems to break easier than stranded.  And that's not to say I haven't had stranded wire break before and it can be a real hassle to get it cleared out of a hole. 

If I've missed something the mounting putty comes in.  Most of the build docs will advise you to go from small to larger components as you populate the board.  So small diodes (914's, 4148's, Bat's) go first, then resistors, the bigger diodes, sockets....  in order. 

Everyone has a different way of doing things.  Figure out what's easy for you, stick to it and as your skills grow improve on it. 

And congrats on your first build and first time fire up.  That's great.

I am finally going to give this a shot.  I've got the kit, read through several of the tutorials and threads but just wanted to get a little more info.  I went to the Envirotex calculator and sized out a 1590bb and it came out to 1.28 ounces to do a 1/16" pour.   

Is 1/16" coat thick enough or do you need more? 

Does the 1.28oz sound correct?  The sides were included in the calculation but I'm only doing the top. I've read that you want to make sure you mix enough the first time. 

Any suggestions/advice will be much appreciated.  Thanks.

👍👍👍👍

👍. Glad everything worked out right.  To tell you the truth I think your email got lost in the shuffle.  There's been a few posts on here about Smallbear service but Intl postage cost comes up a little more frequent.

Not sure what's going on with you but I received the wrong Pot in my last order, emailed them Wednesday night, had a return email apologizing for the mistake and a tracking number with the right Pot Thursday morning.  As with the others I don't think Steve does the email reading.  This was the first time out of about 20+ orders that I've ever had a problem. 

There have been a couple of times recently that I thought I had gotten wrong parts and had to go look at my order and it was correct.  I order something from them once or twice a month and everything has been good.  In 4 years I've had one busted switch and a screw for a knob was missing.   

Ok.  How many does that make in your collection now? They look great.

Really nice looking.  And all those PPP boxes. 

Are you on the 3rd floor of your home? The slope and the window remind me of my bedroom in the row house in Veghel I lived in. 

Plus one on what Somnif said.  Every Tayda resistor, with exception of one bag of 10 and it had to be a mismatch, have all been in spec.  My dmm runs about $25 and when the batteries get low it goes crazy.  You may want to check that and see if that helps.  I also have a $5 harbor freight dmm and it has always given pretty close readings to my other one. 

Your build was my inspiration to put the GC LFO in mind but I haven't got all the kinks worked out yet. 

Just an after thought but where is the 2399 from?  I know I've read somewhere that the ones from Tayda have a tendency to motorboat and make a lot of noise when turned up.  If it's from there and you have a chip from another place I would give that a go, if you haven't already.

Madbean and Alan both posted while I was typing this so if there's some info repeating excuse me please.

Heres a guide from GuitarPCB that will give you some ideas on building one.  It's not all Inclusive but it's a good starter and will give you some info.

http://www.guitarpcb.com/PDF-Files/Combo%20Build%20Wiring%20Tutorial.pdf

I've built a few multis in 1590bb's and your layout is real important.  Board mounted pots sometimes help and sometimes hinder things so just make sure everything will fit before you start drilling. Depending on the width of the board they can be placed on their side if you use wired pots to get some room.  Side placement of boards opens up more grounding possibilities so watch for that.

I like having a switch for each board but in a BB it may be difficult to hit the middle one easily. Depends I guess on how agile you are 😊.  Putting in a ABY switch isn't something I cant speak on but wiring the boards/switches up is just like doing a single one but the jack out of first switch goes into the jack in of the next switch (and so to the next) and the out on your end switch goes to the output jack.  The way I keep from getting confused on the wiring is how do I get the bypass signal from the in to the out jack and it sort of simplifies it for me. 

Anyway, take a look at the guide and you should be able to get some good info from there.  Getting everything to fit right is the most time consuming thing for me.  If you execute the planning phase correctly things will fall into place much easier.