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Hey, Im looking for a self etchable reverb project to work from. Im looking for an over the top reverb for shoegaze/wall of sound type of thing. Does anyone know off hand if any of the DIY projects will do that sort of thing, and/or which of the projects should be avoided in general?

Searching around I found, the rub-a-dub, stage center, ggg d-verb, tonepad fv-1, and the equinox/soltice, are there others?   

Thats from a local store in portland. I brought two, they were low hfe and leaky. i ended up using some MP16B russian transistors in the peppersprays I built, i thought they sounded far better, and they were cheaper.

Years as a printmaker and printmaking lab tech, which uses ferric chloride to etch copper plates for printing. It will work on aluminium, but you wont be able to reuse the etchant, unlike with copper where you can reuse ferric chloride for a long long time. And the reaction will be fast and not very controllable (pitting). And probably fairly toxic.

The linked article is about using ferric to etch copper plates. Stannous chloride can be used to etch aluminum and will probably be far better all around.

Dont use ferric chloride to etch aluminum, ferric chloride is an etchant for copper. Stannous chloride etchs aluminium fairly safely, use that.  Dont reuse the etchant that you used, its probably contaminated. It is also a bad idea in general to use ferric chloride to etch zinc (or galvanized steel) as it will create zinc chloride (which etches faster and exothermicly) and hydrogen gas. Which isnt ideal.

Well I found this which helps: http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/sing-wah/sing-wah.htm but if anyone has anything else, id appreciate it.

I recently built a honeydripper, and it works great/exactly as it should. Im trying to analyze the circuit, im a little hazy on how the vowel sounds are being made, can anyone explain the filter section, or better yet  point me to any resources? (more than, http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/ECFtech/ecftech.htm) -- Im working on trying to design a envelope filter to emulate the ehx talking machine open-AH setting. And the poke and hope method of changing values on bread board isnt working so well.

a filter sample hold?

Never mind, found the problem, replacing a wire to the peak pot fixed it, its working great now.

IC1 (TL074)
1.   7.5
2.   -6
3.   0.49
4.   8.0
5.    0
6.    0
7.    0
8.   7.3
9.   -5.9
10   0
11   -7.3
12   0
13  -5.9
14    7.5

IC2 (TL074)
1    0
2    0
3    0
4    7.9
5    0
6    0
7    0
8    2.2
9    .47
10    .47
11  -7.3
12   ~0
13   ~0
14   .43

IC5 (7660spca)
1    8.1
2    4.0
3    0
4    -3.6
5    -7.4
6    3.4
7    6.1
8    8.1

All pots set to noon. On Bandpass mode. Theremin used as a sine wave generator as input. Theres about 2.2v going into the led of each vactrol and .45 coming out, which makes sense to me.

Thanks, I did the single sided etched version though.

I am having the exact, exact, same problem as in this thread:

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=8484.0

The nautilus sounds like a crappy distortion pedal, and no envelope filter type sound.
Switching low pass/ bandpass / high pass, effects the tone, bandpass is loudest.

Sweep/Peak/Hi Lo dont seem to effect the sound.
Gain functions, and turning the volume trimpot affects the output volume as expected.

The LED is off with one setting of the range, and comes on, with how hard it is played. Adjusting the gain effects the level it comes on. The other setting of the range does the reverse, the LED is on, and dims depending on how loud one plays.

I used the Macron MI1210CLF-R from small bear. They have an F written on them
I used TL074s, and ICL7660SPCA for the ICs.

Ive remelted and checked all part values twice. I checked for continuity from the top of the board part to the trace, on all connections. And checked that there was no continuity in obvious places there could be a solder bridge.

D2 cathode reads between 3.5v and 6.4v.

Any other troubleshooting advice off the top of your heads?

No problem, Hijack away. Its not a big thread.

Do you know, is there a logic to the A, B, D, G, V etc codes/suffix, in the transistor names?

Does anyone have any luck with the cheapish Russian NPN germanium transistors on ebay? In particular, for a screwdriver-esque type circuit? Im looking at the GT404G, MP35, MP38, etc, anyone try any of these?

I find it hard to believe there is nothing close, I have some d9 series (L? I cant remember) that all test around .45 which is higher than the usual ge diode.  But i cant find a datasheet for the oa126, or figure out what values on a datasheet I could compare if I had one, and would rather not poke and hope.