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I've been thinking of doing an SMT version of this.  If people are interested, I could do it sooner rather than later.

I'd be interested in a SMT tubescreamer. I've been wanting to get started with SMT, something simple(ish) like a tubescreamer seems like a good place to start.

I would try something like this. If you are just using normal switches for the loop jacks, you HAVE to have something plugged in or you will get no sound. If you want to use switching jacks, that would make it so your don't have to have a complete loop.

In the image I have Amp/overdrive listed as an output. But your're going to want to run your overdrives before the switcher so that they are before your delays.



If you wanted to use the in and out of your effect loop on your amp for the delays and reverbs you should be able to get away with replacing the guitar in and out with those. I'm not sure how an amp effects loop will take being switched away from though For that matter, I'm not sure how an amp will like not having a guitar input signal when the acoustic guitar is selected. Help with that is better left to someone who understands that stuff more than I do.

Do you guys know of any board fab house where I could just get one prototype board? Even if OSH Park is a better deal for 3 boards, I would feel like I am wasting boards if the project doesn't end up working out on the first go.

There are plenty of places out there that will do a single prototype board, but generally you will pay more for that one board than you will pay for 3 boards from OSH Park.  Part of what has made places like Batch PCB and OSH Park successful is that prototyping through them is so much cheaper than through most standard board houses.

You guys are probably right. Hopefully my boards would be good enough to offload to anyone interested.

Do you guys know of any board fab house where I could just get one prototype board? Even if OSH Park is a better deal for 3 boards, I would feel like I am wasting boards if the project doesn't end up working out on the first go.

If you are wanting to run both guitars to the same amp, it can be done with just a True bypass Input switcher without a loop, ie a switcher with two inputs, one output.

For Electric guitar:

Electric guitar->Overdrives->TB Switch Input A->TB Switch Output->Delays and Reverbs->Amp

For Acoustic guitar:

Acoustic guitar------------>TB Switch Input B->TB Switch Output->Delays and Reverbs->Amp

Basically you would think of your drive pedals as an extension of your electric guitar, and have them before the switcher. You would then run your Acoustic guitar directly to the other input of the switcher.

Now if you wanted to do the switcher AND have your Acoustic route to a DI box while your electric runs to an amp, you would need a loop.

I bought 2 from Tayda, both tested in the same circuit, they both work. I'm never sure about the "noise" that people hear with PT2399s, but I don't believe I hear any extra noise brought about by the chips.

I'm also interested in this mod. I've looked at the schematic, and for the life of me can't figure out where the best place to cut the dry path would be. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Mind=Blown

Getting myself one of these would be the only reason I could think of for kicking my Klone off my board.

Put me down for one.

I hate to bump my own thread, but is there anyone who can help confirm this switching scheme before I bang it out?

Something like this?



The only thing I can think of, and i'm not sure if it matters, but the where the blender circuit connects to the loop in and out jacks, the fx chain will also be wired to it. This shouldn't be a problem in blend mode because the switch will take care of that, but in fx chain mode, the blend circuit loop will still be wired to the jacks. Will this cause any leakage into the fx chain? Or is it pretty safe to say that nothing will be running through the blender at that point?

Hey guys,

I'm having some problems fleshing out an idea that I had. I've failed miserably at coming up with a wiring scheme on my own, and I've done some looking around but can't seem to find a schematic or wiring diagram of what I'm looking to do.

What I'm trying to build is a mix between a true bypass loop and a blend/mix pedal.

Ideally I would have two switches the first to toggle engage/bypass the loop, and the other to change the loop from a blender(I have the blend circuit done) mixing the pedals in the loop in with my clean tone, or adding the pedals into my clean tone in series.

Does anyone know if something like this is possible? Or if there is a wiring diagram floating around for this setup that I just can't seem to find?

You guys are awesome, and I read this forum every day soaking up new ideas.

Thanks

Thanks guys, I try not to imagine the amount of wire either. This is actually the 3rd BSIAB2 I've built like this. I built a normal one for myself, let some friends try it, and they both wanted one. So I built 2 with the double channel set up. Then I got jealous and reboxed mine with more knobs.

As for cost increase, I got the extra pots, LED, CLR, and switch from Tayda, and I bought the knobs from Smallbear so it was only an additional $7.17us. I figure that it's worth it for the functionality of having another pedal on my board.  

Hello gents,

I'm slightly new here, I've been creeping for a couple months. I figured that I'd post some pictures of my creations. Well, I'm not quite smart enough to create the circuits, but I am lucky enough to stand on the shoulders of the incredible people of this community.

I just finished this build so I thought I'd share. I have some Madbean builds coming down the pike. Next on my list is a Yellow Shark.

Took this right when I started to wire it up, figured I'd take a before and after.


This is the "after" although this is only the wiring that did not attach to the board. Hopefully my wiring isn't too messy for you gents, I've been doing this for a few years, but my wiring never seems to improve.


I didn't take a picture with the board and the rest of the wiring, I forgot. If you guys are interested, I'll open her back up and take another picture.

This is the front, I believe the color is copper from PPP, but it was actually a blem. I planned the knob placement to best cover the blemishes.

The extra 3pdt is for switching between two sets of Volume and Gain knobs. So it feels like I have two "channels" on the pedal to use with a bi-color blue/red led to let me know what channel I am on. The tone and mids knobs are shared between the channels.




Let me know what you guys think. Ideas? Constructive criticism? Snooty remarks? I'm game for anything.

So sorry to hear about your family, hope everything goes well.

I was looking over the Collosalus BOM and I noticed that there was no R34, and the older BOM is missing this as well. Was this intentional?

Thanks so much for everything you do Brian.

Nice video! I may have to change my organizational structure in my drawers, I like yours a lot better.

When I was in highschool and had just started goofing around with pedals, I didn't have a lot of parts, and I wanted a quick way to organize my goods. I had been a huge baseball card collector in middleschool and had a ton of the 3 ring binder pages for displaying trading cards.

I cut out a bunch of pieces of paper that were trading card size, taped parts to the cards, wrote the value on the card, and filled up a giant binder with parts. There are 9 slots per page, and you can store 2 cards in a slot. It works really well for resistors, and ok for caps and transistors, anything else and things start getting crazy.

This was actually my go to method up until a couple months ago. It had served me well through college because I could just throw my binder in a box with the rest of my books, and I didn't have to fill up my dorm room with plastic drawers.