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Found my answer. Right click on IC, then Invoke, then PWRN.

I'm fairly new to eagle and I'm trying to draw a schematic using a DIL16 (CD4049UBE). I found one in a library, but when I add it, there are pins missing (1 and 8, the other missing pins are NC). Is there a way to modify a part? Or would I have to create one from scratch? mostly interested in "adding" pins 1 and 8.
TIA

Does anyone do this? I'm just starting to look into this, and it seems that everyone does it different with different cnc's and software. Ive just started to learn Eagle and Inkscape, I'm lost (sorta). I'm not sure the steps, or their order.
I've made a schematic and board layout in Eagle (simple Fuzz Face because I know the circuit well). I don't know what I have to do next. It seems the process uses different file formats at different stages, and I just don't know what I need.
As far as hardware, I'm looking at 3018's, but don't know which company to trust.
Any help, or a gentle nudge in the right direction will help.
I'm just tired of the toner xfer/ acid etch approach, for several reasons.
TIA

No Problem. I wear cheaters myself

I first swapped both 100pf to 220pf. Liked the highs, the lows, not so much. Just for laughs, I replaced the 100pf at Q1. Man! Me likey. Just a *hint* of mud, but no harsh highs. Nice trade off.
Thank you Feral Feline.

Feral Feline,
What values did I increase the input/output caps to?
The values of the posted schematic. The original values (as far as I know) were 2.2uf for input, and .01uf for the output.
I am going to try the 220pf caps now.

I'm taking a shot at modding a FF for Bass. Here is the schematic I'm working off of:


I increased both input and output caps, and tied the E of Q1 to GRD via a 330 ohm, I'm guessing, to decrease the gain, insuring Q1 has less gain than Q2.
I have no idea what the 100pf strapped across both trans does, but to my ear it kinda mellows the harsh.
For the most part, I really dig the sound on the low E and A strings, no mud at all. The D and G, especially pass the 5th fret, is kinda harsh, getting worse as one goes up.
Is there a known mod for this?
TIA
 

This is probably a newbie question, but the only stupid question is the one you don't ask
Consider this out stage of a blender:

(my apologies if I have violated CR)
My issues with it is this:
I used a 50kB pot, wired backwards in reference of the schematic, pin 1 is now to the right, effects in side, with pin 3 to the left, so as to add blend to the effect, instead of taking it away.
The physical range of motion for the knob is from 7'o clock to 5'o clock.
From 7'o to 1'o, adding clean signal appears to have no effect, at least to my ears.
From 1'o to 3'o is where all the blending of clean signal occurs.
From 3'o to 5'o, its sounds just like pure clean signal, for the most part.
I have two schools of thought at this point. Raise the value of the 560 ohm is series with pot, thinking it will it hit the threshold earlier in the pot's swing. 
Change to taper to an audio, and wiring it backwards may make the taper act sorta reverse audio
(shrugs shoulders) I have pulled all of this this out of thin air. I have no science to support this, that's why I'm asking  
TIA

MUCH better. I put the resistor before the diode, then after, not any difference, but either way MUCH better than before. Thank You!

Put the resistor before or after the diode?

Here is a schematic of the power

I also tried it with a battery, no change. There is a resistor at the input. I changed the mlcc to films.
This is how the op amps are being used

Pins 14 and 15 are connected to the gain, and 9 and 10 to the volume. All the pins marked in red are connected to 9v+, pin8 to GRD. All others are not connected.
Its sounds like I'm trying to tune in an old fashion radio when adjusting the volume in the middle. I tried another pot of the same value to no avail.
I hope I have given all the facts needed to help without over kill.
TIA 

Thank you for the leads. I'll etch and see how that sounds. Also, I didn't trim *any* of the leads so I guess I do have a few antennas going on

Ok, I've just re-tested it, and the squeal is pretty much throughout the whole range of the pots, except a couple spots in the middle. I'm using a schematic other than the Snarkdoodle. I checked the Snarkdoodle's BOM. I've used all MLCCs, and no film caps. I did use the one 10uf electrolytic. Could that contribute to the problem? Should I go ahead and etch a pcb, to eliminate any bread board issues? 
TIA

I have just bread boarded a Red Llama, and there is this piercing high squeal, kinda strobing, riding over what otherwise is a great sound. If I adjust the pots, it kinda goes away, but only if the knobs are in a "sweet spot". Ive checked my connections and values. And usual suspects?
TIA

Thank You