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I'm using the standard DC power jack, the one that measures 2.1mm. I had also built a tonepad version with the DC power jack. It is a design that people seem to question because it's a PNP transistor with a negative ground. It's VERY noisy, but the tone is phenomenal. Do you think the power source is the problem? I've heart the Rangemaster is really noisy anyway; the presence of a band could probably mask the noise...the TV at moderate volume does!

I notice in the Madbean Rangemaster project that there's no indication in the plans to use the DC adaptor, but rather just the battery. Is this an effect that is better with just a battery? I haven't built any +ground effects yet, but for my last 12 or so builds I've skipped the battery. Just wondering; if I have to use a battery I will. Still a bit confused about the positive ground also...

Around thirty eight cents apiece at Mouser. As with most Mouser stuff they get drastically cheaper the more you buy. I have enough builds planned in the future that use them that I didn't mind paying $7.60 for twenty. I think at 25 units the price starts to decrease! 

Thanks guys I will try DIYSB and see what I find...I'll get back if there's anything cool!

Thanks Brian; since I had already ordered the 3002, do you know of a project that it may ever be useful for? I have gone ahead and ordered the v3205 etc. though...also, to get an idea of how these things word, had I ordered a 3007 (which I could have), would that have worked? Thanks again!

I can't find an MN3005, even at Small Bear or Mouser. Can I use an MN3002, and if so, what would be the consequences good or bad compared to the 3005? Would I have to change other components in compensation?

Thanks guys; between the info you both provided I now feel confident to try it. Your explanations brought me the most straight ahead answers to my questions that I've found!

I've been trying to do research on biasing transistors because the instructions in these projects say that things should be biased so there's a drain of 4.8, for example. But I can't find anyone to tell me how to use the DMM to obtain this information. What do I touch the red side to? How about the black? I've ascertained that the "drain" is the emitter, so I assume I'm touching that with one side? I've found tons of heavy theory and the science of how things work, but nobody ever mentions the actual procedure, that I can find anyway. I'm about to build the Carmin Ghia pedal, so I need to know. Thanks!

Thanks!

What does the switch on the Rump Roast do? Not the one in the hybrid, but the one that's present in all three builds?

Beautiful! I've got some MAX's but these others are on order from Mouser, so I'll wait. Thanks!

When I see certain parts suggested like the 1044's and the TC version being preferable to the MAX, are the added letters at the end or beginning of TC1044 (such as 579-TC1044SCPA) in any way a deal breaker?
I've taken the chance of ordering the above from Mouser. Thanks, Matt

Thank you! I will only be running it at 9 volts.

I should mention that I'm doing the sunburst version, and am hoping that since the question of voltage looks like it's at the end of the black build that it applies only to that (praying more like!). I'm using the same caps that I've used on all my other projects, none of which called for 25V or more.

Having been a bit over anxious (as usual) I got the whole neutrino board populated before I noticed that it said the electrolytic caps should be 25V or more. These are 16V and I don't know the voltage on the box caps, or the others. Will it work at all, assuming everything else is right, or should I just count my losses and abort? Matt