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Thank you, Sir!  Will give that a try.

What I've built was a true bypass looper as shown in the diagram below from Beavis Audio --- this is for the right BYPASS footswitch on my pedal only (ignore the other two).  In my case the send and return would go to the INPUT and OUTPUT of an Echoplex tape unit but you should be able to use it with almost any effects pedal.  I'm simply trying to add a blend control in there to allow me to dial in the mix of wet and dry signals if possible.

If you go to the Loooper site and click on custom options, the Blend Pot is the fifth item down:

http://www.loooper.com/

Thanks, oldhousescott --- that one's a bit hard to read and a bit over my head as well.

I found these and was wondering if any of them would fit the bill:



--- or ---

Hey all, I built this switching box for my Echoplex EP-3 and it works fine --- left and center switch operate the Echo ON/OFF and PLAYBACK functions of the EP-3 while the right switch is simply a Send/Return loop so I can switch the Echoplex out of the signal path if desired.





I used a wiring diagram from the Beavis site for the loop portion but now I'd like to add a blend pot to the loop to blend the echo (wet) signal to the clean (dry) signal.  I'm thinking turn the pot all the way to the left for dry signal, all the way to the right for wet signal and, when in the center, you'd hear 50% dry and 50% wet.

Does anyone know of a wiring diagram (or Vero layout) for this configuration? 

Thanks!

Thanks for checking the layout, Brian.  Will have to go over my Vero build with my magnifying visor on to check that I have everything in place as it should be, then go back and double check my wiring.

Hi, I hope this request doesn't violate forum rules since this isn't a Madbean project specifically --- if it does, please just delete.  Anyway, after successfully building several pedals from kits to Madbean projects to many Vero layouts, I decided to try one from scratch, i.e., do my own Vero layout from a schematic.  I chose to do a germanium Fuzz Face with a few 'boutique' mods, basically the Fulltone '69 pedal but without the contour control . . . so a three knob, positive ground germanium fuzz face with the addition of what Fulltone calls the bias knob.

I put the Vero together and hooked it up to my test board but it doesn't work --- bypass signal works and, when I click the footswitch on, nothing changes --- it still sounds like the bypass signal and the volume, fuzz and bias controls don't seem to do anything.

Here are two schematics I kind of followed --- one is the basic Fuzz Face and one is the '69 pedal.





Here's the Vero layout I came up with --- I'm hoping someone can take a look and see if there are any errors in the Vero layout.  I'm going to check my build to make sure everything is as shown on the Vero and will check the wiring as well, but I needed a fresh set of eyes to verify the Vero.  Note that I spaced everything out so that I could lay down the resistors and use axial caps and transistor sockets.

Thanks, all!

Interesting thread.  I've built a Klon Klone from scratch using the Vero layout by Blanik (using the latest component values from FSB.org) as well as one of the BYOT kits.  Alas, no real Klon to compare them to, unfortunately.  Both builds sounded very similar . . . LOTS of volume boost on tap, big midrange boost, low to medium OD, wide tone control range.

My buddy built a BYOT kit and a Sunking (V2 with the revised wiring that moved R26, R27 and R28 onto the DPDT) and the SK did sound different than the others.  AFAIK, he used the parts and values listed in the build document.  The SK had less volume boost available than other builds but actually had more available overdrive, albeit a bit looser and fuzzier sounding than the others (although not bad or unpleasant).  Also, something wasn't right with the tone control on the SK as the pedal was very bright sounding with the tone set to anything over 9:00 on the dial.

We noticed the Sunking called for 1N270 diodes in the D4 and D5 position while the other builds used 1N34As . . . . we haven't really experimented with changing those out to see if it makes a difference because I don't think either of us is really Klon material, LOL.

I've really tried to like these pedals but . . . uh . . . I don't know, they all sounded kind of congested and a bit nasally in the mids for me.  I'm just a old BF Fender amp guy, I suppose --- love that scooped-mid, edge of breakup sound.  Maybe I'd like a real Klon better?  Just makes me wonder how different a real Klon sounds than the pedals we've built --- FWIW, my builds sounded VERY similar to the demos I've heard on YouTube, though.  Again, maybe just not a Klon guy . . .

Thanks, Brian --- I honestly didn't know if he was referring to you or not, I was more interested in any perceivable sound differences.  I really like the most recent Fatpants I've built --- I put a switch in for C3 to switch between a 22n, a 10n and no cap at all.  22n = high end presence, great for darker amps; no cap = same as base tone, better for brighter amps; 10n = nice 'in between' setting, adds the nice preamp boost plus a touch of high end sparkle and clarity.

If you DO happen to draw up a mod to the FP I'd love to try it out.  I have three V1 Fatpants builds here and wouldn't mind experimenting with one of them.  As I mentioned, I have the real deal here now but I haven't done any side by side comparisons since the Echoplex needs a some minor repairs.  The unit DOES work but likely needs new tape, a cleaning, etc.

I recently purchased an Echoplex EP-3 and, while searching the web for some info, I found this post on the MetroAmp forum:

http://forum.metroamp.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=29331

In the seventh post down, ClinchFX talks about the EP-Pre and the importance of the output impedance -- read near the bottom of the post . . . can someone help me understand what he says here:

"The output impedance is very important to the phase response of the EP-3 preamp. There's another guy selling PCBs for what he claims is the same thing as an EP-3 preamp, but he just connected a 50K pot to the end of the snippet of schematic that I posted, and that just doesn't cut it."

I haven't done a side by side comparison of the Echoplex with my Fatpants yet as the Maestro needs a tiny bit of servicing first . . .

Here's one I just finished --- I had populated an older V1 Fatpants board but never housed it so I decided to box it up today.  For this build, I rigged up an SPDT on-off-on switch to swap different values for C3 --- a 22n, a 10n and NO cap (center off position).  In the up position, the switch adds some 'crispy' high end; in the middle (no cap) there is no high end added and, in the down position, the 10n gives a nice 'in between' setting . . . a little presence added without being too harsh.

Finally got the pedal housed today; the finish is burnt orange translucent metal flake powdercoat.  I also used one of the clear shaft pots from Mouser and rigged up a bright blue LED in the shaft . . . and it actually works, lol.  I'll have to try one of the V2 boards next.

Hi,
i'm going to start a FatPants, but i still looking for this potentiometers with clear shaft for leds
i can't find them anywhere

please help me, my life depends on it 

I found these at Mouser --- http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/642/683.pdf

Those look great!  Mind posting a link or part number for those pots?

I replaced all three knobs with audio tapers --- the tone control was less noticeable but the volume and gain controls were a substantial improvement.

If you guys DO try the audio tapers in your builds, please post back to let me know what you think.

To follow up on this build ---- I swapped out the linear taper pots for audio tapers and MAN, what a HUGE improvement, at least to my ears.  The volume and gain knobs now have a nice gradual rise and the pedal is much more useable.  It can actually be used as a medium OD now whereas before the distortion was almost instant-on with the linear pot.  Great midrange honk and is great with a Strat bridge pickup.

Do tell about these clear knobs

I found the clear knobs on eBay --- try searching 'clear chickenhead' and a few should pop up.  I believe Antique Electronic Supply (i.e., tubesandmore.com) has them as well.