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Thank you all. Just doing some preparatory research before I place my order with Keefe in Oct. after the move.

I'm going to begin work on another discontinued build, the Ghost Note. It calls for a Zener, (1N4742), and while looking through the data sheet/info page on Mouser I noticed it pulls 12V. Just wondering if that's normal or if I need to search for a 9V 1N4742? Not trying to sound ignorant, just getting clairification.

Thanks

Thank you for the links guys!

Here's the forward voltage readings... 0.263 (single black stripe), 0.325 (dbl black stripe), 0.300 (silver). Not sure if those are proper readings for a 1N34A. I also did a search, (1N34A, diode 1n34a, 1n34a diode, etc.), but only came up with this post. I'm interested in what other's have found, so is there a way to broaden? If these aren't true 1N34As I am disappointed because all of them came from "so called" reputable vendors. Thanks for any other help...

Hi,

Have a quick question with regard to 1N34As. I have three (3) different types (pic 1) vs the default style (pic 2) shown below. Are these ALL functioning 1N34As, aand why the different color types?

Thanks

That's what I needed to know. Thanks Dave!

Just need some clarification before I order...don't want to waste $! In the schematic the SPST is labeled with a 1 and a 2. Doomsch1 pic shows the "Fuzz Lift" part of the Doombutter circuit which, if I'm reading the schematic correctly, brings in or takes out C2 (47uf). Anyway, 1 is underlined in purple and 2 in green. The Deadpool build doc wiring page shows two SPDTs, (versus SPST), being used for "Body" and "Comp". Deadpoolwiring1 pic shows this. My question is on an SPDT ON/ON toggle does 1 get wired to the center lug of the switch, and does 2 get wired to the right lug as shown in the pic?

Thanks

Thank you, again. So when the build doc states SPST (ON/ON) it's a type-O. Am I able to use ON/OFF switches, for the Doombutter Fuzz Lift for example or the Pres. switch for Uproar? Flip the switch to turn "whatever" on, flip again to turn it off. Don't mean to be OCD, but I've had such a good run with builds of late, I don't want to ruin a circuit because of a stupid switch! If there HAS to be something ON/ON in order for the circuit to work, I'll order SPDTs and wire as "midwayfair" suggested.

Thank you

Thank you. For the "jumper", should I just use a small bit of wire or a resistor lead, (for a PCB jumper)?

Hi,

I've got a bug about building some discontinued circuits, (thought my Pepper Spray wouldn't work but sounds great!). Anyway, the build docs call for SPST ON/ON for Deadpool (Body & Comp), Doombutter (Fuzz Lift), and Uproar (Pres.). I've been banging my head trying to find ON/ON, when all I'm finding is ON/OFF. I found an example of wiring an SPDT ON/ON so it acts like an SPST ON/ON, (See Attachment Pic), in the Mysterioso Jr. doc. Would this be the best way to go as an alternative?

Thank you

Thank you for both getting back to me. Very helpful info!!!

Hi,

I know it's discontinued, but I was wondering if anyone knew the specific type of Vactrol used in the Doombutter? I have a choice of 5, VTL5C1, VTL5C2, VTL5C3, VTL5C3/2, and VTL5C6. I know everyone says "roll your own", but I have tried in the past and FAILED miserably! I'd rather spend the $ on a commercial one.

Thank you

Thank you all. I may try the hot glue or just do the center leg...quickly

Thanks again

Hi,

Just built my first etched PCB today, and surprisingly it worked...quite well. Anyway, in the Pepper Spray etched version the Q2 (2n3565) is quite a leg stretch, and the transistor is kind of wobbly. I also want to shore up the 2n404a. Would using my heat sink on each transistor leg, and putting a drop of solder on the socket work, or would it be detrimental?

Thank you

Hi,

Does anyone need 22 (regular) DC power jacks. I'm using "Outties" these day...much easier to wire and install... for me. Anyway, if anyone wants them send me a P.M. with your info., and I'll send them out to you.