Messages

Tell you what, I'll PIF the other 2 tapflos. Feck it, your help gents is much appreciated and I often need it, so it all levels out lol.

I'd love to get a chip from you. I'm working on a liquid mercury and twin peaks, slowly. I plan on flashing the chips myself, but I won't know if that works until I have a correct board, but I can't test the board without a working chip.

Whats supposed to be in the deluxe version; does he have something written about it? I'll be picking this one up once I finish a few things I'm in the middle of, but I'd really like a tap tempo version that can sync with his lfo.

Those pedal link things are bike chain links. I bought a chain breaker and an old chain and did the same thing. They work extremely well but I only used two on each pedal so it was easier to swap things. If you want more let me know, I think I still have the old chain laying around somewhere.

I've been thinking about switching from velcro to these links to prevent pedal wobble. If you have extras no one's claimed yet, I'd be happy to take them off your hand.

I just build an OCD drive that does the same thing with the gain and tone cranked up. When I connect the brightness toggle it gets significantly louder and higher pitched. I tried looking for something causing it, but I wasn't.

I cast my vote, but realistically I'd buy most of these. I'd love to work on a submini tube amp, but I'm also a sucker for synchronized tap tempo. Out of curiosity, are the timelapse and cave troll (may it rest in peace, not just pieces) based on the Tapanatorator? I'd like to see how you converted the LFO to set the delay time of the pt2399. You might have given up on them, but I still believe!

for some strange reason, I really want some ice cream now. Great job on those enclosures. How do you like the lumin, I'm considering boxing it up with the Tiny Giant amp.

I've been working on the Liquid Mercury and Twin Peaks Tremolo using the TAPLFO.  I had it in my head that one of the 1590BB enclosures would have a tap jack so you could use something as a master SPST switch (either external, or one of the actual 1590BB's switch).

The way it currently works (from the diagram in the datasheet), an external jack can supply a master control signal to synchronize all your connected TAPLFO effects. This master control needs only be a spst momentary in a passive box as each effect supplies the necessary 5V. The internal momentary switch can override the master control, but only for that effect not the rest of the connected pedals. 
 
Its not terribly hard to modify the behavior the the internal switch to act as a master, but it requires a small daughterboard. I talked to the Electric Druid himself and came up with a design that should work, but I haven't put any thought into it since before Drolo's boards arrived. My enclosures should arrive next week or so, so I'll get around to testing it then I'll make a thread with more details.

How much current does this draw? I use a one spot daisy chain and don't want to risk tossing an AC wire in the mess as well, so I was thinking this could be a good excuse to finally get an isolated power supply. The Cioks AC Rider/Ciokolate have 800mA, which I assume is more than enough, but I figured I'd ask.

Another vote for double sided sticky foam. Its perfect beneath pots, and pretty adhesive. I use it to keep small strip/circuit boards attached to the floor (erm, inside roof? underside? the face where pots go) of smaller circuits.

I completely get that. I've grown accustom to having more things to do than hours in a day, but after a while it does wear you down. I haven't touched my soldering iron in over a week; even longer since I actually spent time with it daily. 
 
If I had a week of absolutely nothing to do, I'd be able to: 
* finally finish soldering drolo's liquid mercury and twin peaks
* flash a few taplfo chips for said effects
* order 125BB enclosures for a few builds and box them up
* I'm not much of a gamer anymore, but there are a few games from gamestop I picked up many moons ago but haven't touched yet
* I have way too many TV shows to watch
* my music collection is a serious mess, and needs many tedious hours of organizing it by hand

I also couldn't agree more about having another local builder. I used to talk to a few of my guitar playing friends about my upcoming pedals and whatnot, but they don't know much about effects so can't share my enthusiasm; as long as it sounds cool in the end they like it and thats the end of it. 
 
Plus, its always nice to have an extra pair of eyes. I built a mid-fi demo tape fuzz several months ago, but for some bizarre reason I can't get it to work. I reflowed the solder several times and checked all connections, but I just can't determine whats wrong with it. Since its not a very popular circuit it doesn't get much attention on the forums, so its just been sitting in a box collecting dust (partially because I've got other stuff I'd rather work on).

you know that american and brithish pint are different too, right? If you're in the US, the metric system would benefit here to as our beer comes in 0.5L. 

Well now theres no reason not to switch.

Its hard to say without looking at the schematic, and TH has too many for me to know which one you have. Probably, since its easier to use a double throw as a single throw instead of having to keep 2 different parts in stock. But theres a chance it needs the second throw to do its thing properly.

I blame the metric system.

I actually blame the non-metric system you guys use... pounds per square inch? I mean, come on! why not use Pascal instead? we all should just use SI units, which incidently happen to be in metric units

Metric is too precise for muricans, over yonder would never make it in the metric system.

Except for temperature, for some reason Fahrenheit is more accurate than Celsius. But really, as long as I can still buy beer by the pint I'm good.

Its hard to say without looking at the schematic, and TH has too many for me to know which one you have. Probably, since its easier to use a double throw as a single throw instead of having to keep 2 different parts in stock. But theres a chance it needs the second throw to do its thing properly.

a 1pdt is the same thing as a spdt. the s stands for single, and the d stands for double. Larger than that they switch to numbers to keep things simpler.

The 78L** series has an internal voltage drop of about 2V, meaning you need to supply a 12V regulator with at least 14V to work properly. I don't know if theres any easier way to power the circuit or if a charge pump and regulator is still the best.