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Ah, bummer - US stock with a big delivery charge..doh!

At least I know to look for 24AWG now - i'll have a search around.

Thanks,

Ian

Ah, cool - is that this stuff? -
http://www.newark.com/nte-electronics/wh24-00-100/hook-up-wire-100ft-24awg-cu-pvc/dp/33C7358

Thanks - i've seen the Barry's stuff mentioned before somewhere, but the shipping from guitarpcb.com to the uk is extortionate.

Ian

Hi,

What wire do people use for wiring the offboard stuff (pots, jacks, switches, power)?

Will the thickness affect the sound at all?

I prefer to use stranded as solid snaps too easily when you are moving around trying to solder & test, but then I got some 22AWG stranded from Tayda and it doesn't fit through the holes on the etched boards i've been building.

I've got a load of cat5, which is solid and snaps very easily, but is nice and thin, and neat as it's twisted together in pairs (although, will that cause a problem?) - but it's very thin....will that affect the sound at all?

Also, do you build them loose so you can test before boxing, or do you fix pots, switches etc in the box and solder wires in place?

Thanks,

Ian

Funky!

ok, those capacitors and diodes look ok, but I did find (and fix) a solder bridge on one of the capacitors near there!

The supply now seems to have gone up to 9.19v and i'm getting the following readings:

IC1:
1: 4.58v
2: 4.59v
3: 3.36v
4: 0.2mV
5: 4.55v
6: 4.57v
7: 4.57v
8: 9.19v

IC2:
1: 5.04v
2: 4.59v
3: 4.58v
4: -8.83v
5: 4.57v
6: 4.57v
7: 4.15v
8: 16.84v

IC3:
1: 9.19v
2: 4.61v
3: 0.4mV
4: -4.38v
5: -8.20v
6: 4.03v
7: 7.09v
8: 9.18v

How do those look?

Thanks,

Ian

Ah, right! - that makes more sense. I'll check D1 & D2.

I assume therefore that C19 refers to the fabbed one and it's C21 (off pin-4 of IC3) that I need to check?

Thanks!

Ian

Oh!!

I just looked up what D5 and C19 are.

I've not fitted D4/D5 yet as I thought they were just for clipping and the circuit would be unaffected without them? (i'm going to have them switchable with some different types but thought it would be fine without it and just like CompCut on the FD2).

I guess that's my problem then!

I'll fit some diodes in there tonight and check the voltages again.

Thanks,

Ian

Charge pump is a ICL7660SCPA from:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251066447875

Thanks for the suggestions! - i'll check those out tonight!!

Ian

Hi,

I'm just finishing up building a single sided Sunking board someone etched for me.

I've got the switch, dc socket and jacks connected, but not the pots or clipping diodes yet - but I thought i'd fire it up and check the voltages against the ones in the document.

Most of mine are in the same kind of ball park, except the following:

- Instead of 0, I get some mV readings.

- Instead of 18v, i seem to be getting 12v

- I don't seem to get the negative voltages.

Here are all of my readings:

Supply: 8.52v

IC1:
1: 4.26v
2: 4.26v
3: 3.17v
4: 1.6mV
5: 4.26v
6: 4.26v
7: 4.26v
8: 8.53v

IC2:
1: 4.43v
2: 4.28v
3: 4.26v
4: 84mV
5: 4.25v
6: 4.27v
7: 4.11v
8: 12.29v

IC3:
1: 8.53v
2: 2.5v
3: 3mV
4: 2.5mV
5: 83.8mV
6: 3.08v
7: 6.71v
8: 8.51v

Please could someone who understands what they are and should be tell me what's going on?

Any idea what the problem is with the ones which are out?

Will the variance in the others affect the sound in anyway, or is it just down to component tolerance and that my 9v supply seems to be a bit lower than the documented ones?

Thanks!

Ian

Cool - does the gain mod just swap the pot for a larger value like the DeadRinger's boost?

You've also got an extra pot on there - have you swapped the dual gang for 2x individual pots?

Nice!

What mods did you do?

Ian

Thanks - have dropped him an email.

Ian

Anyone ever find this?

Thanks,

Ian

I guess Tayda must have changed their 1N34A's since then, as I just looked at some I ordered in the last month or so and they are see through glass with 2 black rings.

I've already used one out of a pack of 10, but the others read as follows:

0.239
0.229
0.227
0.232
0.227
0.238
0.241 (only had a single black band, oddly)
0.247
0.235

They also do seem temperature dependant as they took a bit to stabilise and then if I grip it in my hands, the reading goes slowly down about 0.001 per second...

Does all that look correct for 1N34A's?

They're $0.24 each.

Ian