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Let's hear it, although the plastic cap over the LED works, its not that much of an elegant solution

Yep that was the original goal - use the LFO Indicator LED instead of the True Bypass Indicator LED.

When I stick the positive/negative leads to A1/A2 and turn on the effect

the LFO Indicator LED is always on
the actual LFO LED is also always on
if I play around with the depth knob, the actual LFO LED changes brightness, but the Indicator LED is at the same brightness

Its all settled now though. Thanks for the help! 

It's the electric boogaloo / Shoot the Moon Tremolo:



I made a dark cap/cover to place over the indicator so there is no need to turn it off via the circuit

I don't think I'm getting this properly

I just tried it out - the Indicator LED is always on. The LFO LED is always on. When I switch the effect off the LED is off (so thats a success), but the pulsing stopped. The depth knob controls the intensity

What I did was connect the positive lead of the indicator diode to A1 and the negative lead to A2, thats if I am understanding this whole circuit thing properly. Is the actual LFO circuit have to be connected?


EDIT:

No Worries about this. I've grown to like that indicator, Ill be keeping it always on

Just to clarify that I am getting this correctly. The A-1 would have the positive lead of the indicator LED and A-2 would be the negative lead?

Not a problem, I might end up leaving it the way it is. Would something like this work:



Maybe there is a simpler solution

The way by board is currently wired is that the LED Indicator is pulsating all the time. I have the LED wired directly from the board. Is it possible to wire it, so that when the effect is bypassed the Indicator LED is off?

I'm using a 1776 3PDT board which has space for a LED (currently blank). I was thinking of running some wires (ie + from PCB connected to + of 3PDT) from the 3PDT board to the LED Indicator on the PCB, but Im not sure it would work

Whew thats a relief. I was ready to start cutting traces.

How about 1 and 2 of IC2, the one with resistor. Should there be connectivity there?

So Im building the Electric Boogaloo and I got a solder bridge between pins 6 and 7 of IC1. I cleaned it offbut Im still get connectivity signals from my DMM. I checked the schematic maybe there is supposed to be connectivity?

Here's a link


If so what I am not getting is that I am not getting any connectivity between 1 and 2 on IC2 (I soldered the resistor in)

Thanks Jon!

It would look something like this right?:

So I'm building a Rangemaster using this PCB:



Would it be possible to add a range mod like this:


How would I modify the above schematic?

Looks like it is the 5th now. Im hoping the build docs would be up before.

The  shoot out should also be someone with the original klone - it will be somewhat of a control in this sciencey experiment

Whats wrong with their resistors/caps?

Is it an aesthetic issue (like small leads) or a numerical issue (out of spec/ huge tolerance). Apparently I've heard the ceramic caps are bad, but I am not sure what makes them bad

Here is that post:

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=5399.0

Do you know of a video of how the note decay sounds like? I've been browsing youtube for purple plexi clones and I haven't noticed anything weird