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I double checked my documentation (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B5vtgOg9bRJjVGlIVDZxUUxfSDA), chapter 8. I remember it was kind of tricky to get the modulation running on the 2-PT-version. For the calibration of a 2-PT-Delay, I had to modify the code a bit (downloadable version!), so it might be, that that is the reason, why it isn't running on a 3-PT-Version (what is the complete schematic of that and what design is that - looks awesome and I see a lot of knobs and a microcontroller on your breadboard as well).

While I cannot really help with the 3-PT-Delay: What 2-PT-Design were you using... maybe I can help with that one.

P.S. As you mentioned the USB-Cable in your 1-PT-Design: Are all the GND (Taprecise, Delay etc.) connected to each other? Just an idea...

the receive pin is A0 and that must be working because it calibrates a single pt2399 just fine

OK... I must have missed that the Taprecise Board seems to work on a single pt2399 delay.
.

2 Seconds Rings a Bell... I think that If taprecise does Not receive an Echo within 2 sec, it will Stop the calibration. So, please Check If the echoes make it to the analog Pin (I will Check the Code tomorrow to See which one that is...)

I am really sorry I currently cannot support you better, Leetut. It's been a long time since I built my taprecise and the issues you describe do not remind me of anything I (or others) had to deal with before (there have been quite a few successful builds). Plus, my work load increased due to corona (nothing to complain about, really!), which kept me away from both, music and electronics for weeks...

I have never tried it with a 3PT2399 delay, mine works in a double PT Delay though. Don't see, why this should not work... What comes to my mind: Have you done Arduino programming before? If yes, you could try to write a small piece of code an manually (e.g. via the serial interface) set the resistance of the digipot (just to see if it reacts correctly). Also, you could check (much easier), if the tap tempo button is recognized by the arduino, check for the analog input that receives the echo beeps during calibration etc...

Disconnect the delay and measure, If the resistance in the three digipot lugs Changes during the calibration, please.

I assume the delay ist working with a regular Pot...

Seems Like the digi Pot is Not changing the delay time, so I assume some wiring issued between taprecise and the delay...

Finished my LAB5 yesterday, I'm in. We could extend the thread to anything else we get finished during the crisis. For example cleaning the basement ;-)

Have you had this laying around for a while or is there a new run of the enclosures?
Can you explain what the multifilter sounds like?

I got this early 2020 - I thought that the price was "only" the PCB and was very surprised, that Kevin obviously meant to give away the enclosure as well. What a treat!
For the multifilter, I would say that it sounds like a presence control, but more effective (less effective and less artificial than an exciter, though). It adds narrow peaks at 1kHz, 1.37kHz, 1.9kHz, 2.63kHz, 3.63kHz and 5kHz, if I read the schematic and the patent correctly.
Interesting reading: https://patents.google.com/patent/US4117413A/en

Very nice! You got that done pretty quick if it was your BOTY prize!

Thanks. Corona crisis gets me back to the soldering iron.

Did you have any issues with setup/biasing etc.? I've seen a few threads in various places where folks were running into trouble.

Not at all - I did it with the iOS app "signal generator", as recommended by Kevin. My DMM does not measure AC mV, so I had to take a very old analog device for that. Don't know about the precision of my setup, but it surely sounds nice to me. For the compression, I ended up maxing the trim pot (fully CW). It's in series with the limit pot on the front panel, which you will keep below 12:00 'o' clock anyway.

My biggest issue was finding an AC power supply that didn't give it fits.

What supply did you end up using? I've got a couple of the Line 6 supplies that I think he said would work.....

I used an old 9.5 V AC adapter rated for 400 mA I had lying around. The regulators get hot, but not too hot to touch them.

I Take No credits for the design. That's Kevin! The Screws, the enclosure, the Name Plate ... I just Chose the knobs and the leds :-)

Awesome, my BOTY 2020 price - thanks, Kevin!

I like it better as a preamp than as a pedal. First shot is my preset in stompbox mode, second one in preamp mode (less compression required, higher master volume).





Some comments:
- Mouser ran out of the recommended Nichicon power caps - Try the Panasonic FP series for an equivalent ripple!
- Substitutions: OPA134 for LF356N, NJM2068 for RC4558P
- First time I orderded at Mouser: Shame on you, Mouser, what a waste of bags (giant plastic bags, often with second bags inside for a single resistor). Other suppliers use less than the half plastic waste.

When splitting humbuckers you should keep in mind the 250k/500k pot thing and how it effects pickup loading and max tone pot treble. Split humbuckers typically tend to sound thin and trebly. This is usually because HBs are designed to be used with 500k pots. So when you split them, you are effectively running a single coil thru a 500k pot.

I remember reading somewhere that some humbuckers, like the Duncan JB, were more or less designed to be used in a Strat and therefore tended to work well with the 250k pots that were already in them. I am mainly looking at it from the perspective of splitting HBs in a Gibson so when I think that, when they factory load 300k pots, that it's specific whatever pickups come in it, which can vary from year to year and even in very similar models. I think most of the nuance gets lost in the 300k vs 500k factory pot debate.

I know that the physical design (slugs vs bar) accounts for some of the difference between SC and HB, but I think you could prob get a little closer to an acceptable single coil sound from a split HB if you design in some resistance switching as well. For instance use a 500k pot, and switch in an additional parallel 500k OR 1M resistor when you pull the pot to split.

BTW, I have a 2005 SG Standard that came with all 300k pots and pickups are:
490R (Alnico2) 7.8k
498T (Alnico5) 14.2k

True! I've done that in another instrument. You need a Super Switch for that, I stole the idea from a Suhr HSS strat. I can dig it out, if you need that...

I have a Sambora Strat from the 90s and it has the clapton mid boost in it (but wired differently). I traced it and made it smaller and added it to all my instruments. That is on a push/pull and "on" is, when the pot is pushed in ;-). I love it! Not trying to sell something to you, though - you could have one for free, if you seriously want to try it. Here is the thread (a discussion with myself, but anyway): https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=24718.msg240879#msg240879

You would need a 9V battery (or a LiPo in your strat and an USB-charger-connector :-)) - very untraditional, but I've seen it on a Greg Koch Tele and though "why not?"). The LiPo would fit easier than a 9V (you don't want to route your beloved instrument.

I can fully recommend HSS. Some Ideas for that:

I've been an HSS guy most of my life and just recently changed one of my strat to a SSS configuration. It's different, for sure, but I regret the change.

On my HSS Strats, I use either
- the bridge humbucker or
- the combination of neck and middle pickup or
- the combination of a split bridge and neck pickup (tele-like)
None of these hum (middle is reverse wound, reverse polarity).

- If you want to get great and cheap pickups, try tonerider.... I have them, they kick ass. Great support (not affiliated!).
- Concering switiching options, there is millions available for HSS, but only a few work for me. I have added a little switch on my strat to add the neck pickup to whatever you choose on the 5-way-switch. Something like this: https://www.google.com/search?q=gilmour+stratocaster+switch&rlz=1C1GCEB_enDE880DE880&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwi4g5SsiqfoAhXXQkEAHTpLBy8Q_AUoAnoECAsQBA&biw=1363&bih=809#imgrc=FlFKpDLN4eGO2M

- Are you considering adding active electronics?

My personal recommendation:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Soldering-Iron-Station-Temperature-Controller-Kits-for-HAKKO-T12-Handle-/381511733009?hash=item58d3df0f11:g:sFEAAOSwIgNXwPgy
15 USD

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Schaltnetzteil-alle-Modelle-Netzteil-Trafo-LED-Strip-Power-Supply-/131486861965?var=&hash=item1e9d3a4a8d:m:m5x-FPu4LpHbyVrCYMvLTOA
5 USD

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-T12-Handle-Series-BC2-BL-JO2-KU-Soldering-Iron-Tips-For-HAKKO-FX951-FX952/112369174587?hash=item1a29b9883b:g:c4cAAOSwU8hY7xtc
25 USD

Total 45 USD, you need to build it and create an enclosure for it (downloadable for laser cutters).

It's really, really perfect.

Haven't designed something for about a year... before setting up Eagle (now part of Fusion 360), my libraries and my scripts, I was wondering, if there were alternatives available and stumbled over EasyEDA. I played around with it for two hours or so and found the libraries to be quite good (checked for some parts, usually only used by stompbox builders, e.g. BTDR reverb bricks or PT 2399 delay chips).

Findings so far:
- Schematic drawing is cool enough for me
- Placement of components is ok as well
- Online Autorouting seem to be limited, but there is an option for a browser plugin (need to check)
- I think there is no limitations in terms of PCB sizes (I might be wrong).
- Visualization of the PCB is available (probably including components)

Anybody who migrated to this online tool? There is an installation version available as well, which I haven't tried...