Messages

How would I go about doing this on the board? Just put two of them in the 20k spot?

Not quite. Doing this would be putting them in parallel, not in series. In parallel, a pair of 10k resistors would get you 5k. What you want to do instead is...

Twist together one lead from each resistor and solder that twisted pair of leads together. What you have now, effectively, are three leads -- one of them is the one you just twisted up. The other two leads go on the board in the holes meant for the 20k resistor.

Now, when I do this, I like to make it look neat, so I clip the twisted leads close to the resistors and cover the now shortened lead and resistors with heat-shrink tubing. This insulates the otherwise exposed lead and makes it look neat and tidy!

Hope this helps rather than confuses.

Thanks, fellas!

What do I need? I fear I burned up a set of $$ germanium ones and would like to install sockets and use cheapies to test the circuit. Then, I can replace them with Mullards once I'm sure the rest of the circuit is up to snuff.

What'll work?

Thanks!!!

Didn't socket. COULD'VE socketed - but didn't. I have the sockets, but couldn't easily fit one of them, so I decided not to socket any of them...

poo...

Is there a way to test them, or should I just order another set?

Any other places to check?

So. I built the thing and...

No signal when engaged. Bypassed is fine, NOTHING when un-bypassed. No hiss no nada. But, the LED does light when it ought to...

I populated the board and see no obvious shorts (I'll post pics tomorrow). I wired it up using this diagram so as I could power it from a standard power supply:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/diagrams/switch_lo_3pdt_tb_dcj_pnp_ft.gif?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

Then - it got worse. While I was poking around, wondering what went wrong, I shorted the TIP and RING of the input together. The LED went out and stopped working. The LED is fine and the limiting resistor is fine. (New LED does the same thing, old LED lights when hooked up to a battery)

Where do I start? What are the obvious things to look for? I saw no release of magic smoke and nothing looks like it has popped or burned.




...aw maaaaaaaan...

Thanks, man. That's what I'll do!

What is entailed in biasing my patsyface? I'ma populate the board now and would like to know what I'm in for when it comes to biasing.

Thanks, fellas!

---
Cam

I accidentally ordered shorting jacks. I can't imagine it'll make any difference to my builds, but would like to know for sure?

For all intente and purposes, are they interchangeable with non-shorting jacks?

Will this work in place of the 1044?

So some good pals have recommended how to make the Chunk Chunk more SLOish. They recommended:

1 - Remove r15
2 - Remove c13
3 - Remove presence pot

I thought that it would be bitchin' to put these mods on a switch. I'm great with an iron, but crap with a circuit. What's a good way to go about this? I was thinking implementing a 3PDT toggle, but am not sure how I ought to wire it up.

Lil' help? THANKS!!!

Thanks, guys. It was (is) working as it's supposed to. It was just that there's a narrow range on the SUS control where compression really occurs. Dialed it in and it's nice 'n' squishy now!

Pop LOVES it!

m is not the same as u.

m for milli is 1 x 10^-3

u for micro (which should actually be the Greek letter Mu - μ) is 1 x 10^-6

I thought this pedal sounded weird. Must've been all the 4.7 millifarad caps...

The build doc says:

The SUS trim pot adjusts the maximum compression allowed. As you turn it up, compression will increase, but so will noise and distortion. Set this trimmer at a point where you feel you get the most compression with the least amount of noise and distortion. You may sub a 10kB pot is you want this as an external control.

I can TOTALLY buy that it should be set and left. That's not a problem. But WHERE to set it?

(Thanks, by the way )

Sounds like it's not biased right to me. Have you adjusted the trim pot properly?

Jacob

Well, I moved the trim off the board and to the box. Where ought it to be biased (don't know what "properly" amounts to).

But, since the SUS is the bias, it makes sense that when I dime it, I get "whoof" then no sound.

It should be, as I understand it, that I get more compression as I turn SUS up - up to the point that it gets noisy. Well. It never gets noisy and it doesn't SEEM like the compression is really changing.

But, then again, I might just be thick.

So. I tested my "Apple Juicer" and wonder if my experience is normal.

1 - It overdrives quite nicely. Lots of gain/volume on tap. I suspect that this is normal. But...

2 - It doesn't sound particularly squishy. It's hard to tell it's compressing at all, really.

3 - When I dime the 'sus' pot, it goes 'whoof' and the signal disappears. It does this past, say, 3:00. Back it up to < 3:00, sound is back.

4 - It's hard to tell that the 'sus' control really does anything.



Any ideas? Compared to my Keeley and the Orange Squeezer vids I've seen, it's obviously less squishy. Apart from the giant volume boost (it seems that 8:00 is unity. Maybe cuz of the linear pot? At any rate, can hardly turn it up without, y'know, turning it UP), it's hard to tell it's on...How do I get the squishy?

(Otherwise, it's perfect. It's quiet, it engages and bypasses, it works with a battery or external supply, the battery disengages when external power is present, etc. )