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Should note that the pedal worked correctly before boxing.


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How is the output volume? Do you have multiple mosfets you can test with?

Volume seems to be normal. I'll throw another in and report back.


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It's not a bug. It's a feature. (I'm a software engineer)


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That is the board. No value changes. I'm pretty anal about testing components before using. But I'm happy to check because I'm a human and prone to error


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Built a metal oxide fuzz (diy guitar pedals Australia ) last night. Has an unintended octave. Common reasons that this might happen?


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Thanks! I'll give that a try next go round.


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Epoxy resin (sometimes called FR4) boards are more expensive and harder to cut, but are much more durable and reliable.

Oh man. You are right. These are the Cadillac of boards. Also, very hard to cut. On the cheapo vero boards a utility knife was sufficient. However it took about 20 min to cut through on these new FR4 boards. What do you recommend to cut these bad boys with?


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It sounds pretty clean, but with any circuit in this vein, it will have the slightest peach fuzz around the note.

Good info. It's desirable for me.


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Nice, neat and clean!

I build it on veroboard, layout from tagboard. Comparing the schematic in the document build from PedalPCB of this pedal with other schematics I found (Tentacle and Green Ringer) I noticed a difference: the output resistor across the ground is 10k and not 47k.
My Tentacle pedal works great about the ringing and the octave up effect, it sounds little fuzzy. I think it sounds how it should. In my there's a little volume boost.
How does work your Tentacle pedal?

I'm working on the vero layout you are. Gonna drop it in a box tonight. I'll look out for the fuzziness.


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I went ahead and ordered the fr4 board. I'll use the rest of this. I really think it's ok stuff and that I just should have done a better job of scoring it before breaking it. But now that. I know there are better materials out there I will use that instead.
Good news however. My first attempt at Vero (a booster) was successful.


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mine are said to be made of "Bakelite," also known as "polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride" for short

To paraphrase Shakespeare:
What's in a name? That which we call polyoxybenzylmethylenglycolanhydride by any other name would smell as sweet (when heated).   

Plus one in thanks for the knowledge!


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Yeah^ what vizcities said- the solder pads &/or tracks (depending on the type of board) are the important part, so as long as you treat it gently, a board that's split in half like that will work just fine, but personally I'd happily trade the 80 cents for a fresh, strong, unabused board.

Now a couple questions for you:
  How did that even happen??
  What are you building?

It happened while cutting it. Probably just didn't get deep enough and put too much stress on the board. Building an mxr distortion plus with some wampler mods.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WrOham39S78/UQgbmV5XBOI/AAAAAAAABR4/eEM3oK37nAI/s1600/MXR-Distortion+-w-mods.png


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Is that a phenolic resin board?

I honestly have no idea.

It was advertised like this:
6.5x14.5cm Stripboard Veroboard Uncut PCB Platine Single Side Circuit Perf Board


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I'm guessing no. Just confirming that's the case.




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Been wanting one of those little orange amps for a while. Pro tip. If you get an all tube head you can run the orange into the effects loops and have an all tube orange micro

https://youtu.be/IgHxgBwFEb8


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