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Thats stunning: absolutely great job. I'm still trying to finish up a pair of them, but its incredibly slow going and I have no time between all my classes. I need to solder the rotary off-board, flash the lfo, and debug what will inevitably go wrong. Of course I'm not filling it with all the mods, so that should make it slightly easier.

I went to visit a friend who lives with his grandfather on a farm, one thats been in his family since his grandfathers grandfather. They built up an extensive tool collection over the years, including a looking similar press. I wish I had known about it, since I could've brought all my undrilled boxes. Oh well, we got to go hiking and shoot a huge variety of his guns, which was more fun anyway.

I've tried it on vero, but I found it doesn't stick too well (neither to copper/solder board nor the aluminum enclosure). It could still work as a barrier, although I found using foam tape a more preferable option (it sticks slightly better). Another promising option are adhesive standoffs/pcb holders, but I'm too cheap to get them yet.

the Fender ones have that big round 'nose', which is much less pronounced with the G&Ls. Still similar of course. I never noticed until a friend pointed it out and now I don't like the fender headstocks any more

I wanted to find a picture that compared them, but not after you said this. Now I'm trying to remain blissfully ignorant 

Very nice! I have my main guitar on a stand by its amp, but my other 2 in their gig bags laying flat in a safe spot. I'd love to do this, but I don't have very much wall space. Also, I read its a bad idea to leave guitars by an outside wall, especially if the insulation is poor, as in my situation.

Even though I use the same jack on all my pedals, I always solder the wire to it, then check with my multimeter. Who knows if I'm distracted, tired, or just not thinking and accidentally solder it in backwards. If I do, I wouldn't think to check that when it doesn't work, and I don't want to risk burning something else up (I hate desoldering).

I recently picked up a Pork Barrel PCB, and I was wondering if it would be possible to use a TAPLFO chip to drive the mn3101 instead of the onboard LFO. I'm not sure what the voltage swing of the onboard LFO is, or if the TAPLFO chip could output the same range. Since the LFO is fed to the clock generator through a pair of transistors, how important is it to match the input voltage range of the original oscillator? 
 
Bonus questions, how should I filter the TAPLFO signal? Vactrols seem like the common answer, at least for tremolos. Would they work here as well, or should I opt for an opamp Bessel filter like the datasheet shows? A vactrol requires fewer components, but costs more; are there any performance differences to take into account? 
 
Thanks for your help!

Thats stunning! I like how heavily you swirl all 3 colors, but still manage to maintain enough distinction between them.

They had a 125B and 1590B for $3.99 for a buffered (not polished) finish up for a bit over the weekend. Looks like they're still working out the kinks, but I look forward to seeing these enclosures.

Will this one let you select multiple presets at the same time, unlike the original as far as I know, but like the Behringer clone?

If you look on this page, Aion explains how it works, but the short answer is yes.

What about just having a rate and depth pot? You could measure your pots as you rotate them and then mark where the presets are along the rotation.

Cause thats too ordinary, and the Dimension-C is anything but. Aion is going for as accurate of a reproduction as possible, which includes the 4 button fixed presets. Sure it might not be as versatile, but each preset sounds phenomenal (at least it does on youtube, and according to others). I'm sure you could modify it if you want, but you might want to opt for the dimension p (similar design with pt2399 chips) or regular analog chorus instead.

Unnecessarily complicating things by adding "features" is half the reason why I got into this!

I wonder if you can do top mounted jacks with a 125BB? Sure its a little wider then a 125B and almost the same width as a 125 with side mounted jacks, but it might still be a centimeter or more less wide, depending on what kind of jacks you use. Hmm....

You can easily squeeze 3 open style jacks and a small size power plug along the top of a 125BB. I haven't tried them with the normal size power connector, but it might work with compact jacks. Although you'd need to move the PCB out of the way, which possibly means off board wires for the controls... The things we do for top mounted jacks.
 

Y'all and your obsessions with top mounted jacks... my goodness

Every classic Boss & Ibanez pedal has side jacks. Get yourself some pancake plugs!

(tips over a table and hides behind it)

Now your putting me in a tough spot, I like your work and look forward to getting both the L5 (waiting on the enclosure group buy) and especially this, but thems some serious fighting words. Sure pancake plugs save some space, but top mounted saves even more. Which directly correlates with the number of pedals I can build and shove on my board.

Another question, if you don't mind; I've never seen an original, but it looks like it has the kind of 4 way latching push button that unlatches the other selection when one is activated. Is that a special part we'd need to source, or did you update it to something more conventional?

A very important question that seems to not have come up yet: will this include top mounted jacks like your typical projects, or side mounted jacks like your L5?

I'll take em!