Messages

Hi,
No, I didn't lift any pins. I haven't done that before. Do I just clip off the first pin of the IC? I don't think the docs mentioned that. Thanks for the advice and let me know the best way to lift the pin.
Thanks,
Brad

I have a 1n5242 as the 12v zener diode. Just checking that that is correct. The motorboat sound speeds up and slows down turning the knobs and goes away momentarily when I strum the guitar (although no guitar sounds come through).

Hi,
I have a LT1054CP chip in at number 4.

Thanks. I have a little test box that I screw the jacks into for grounding. Both IC4 4 and 5 are positive.
Thanks

I just fired up my Naught Fish for the first time and sadly, there is only a loud motorboating sound when the pedal is engaged. The sound seems to change a bit if I turn the knobs or flip the switches, but there isn't any guitar sounds. I put the socket in backwards for IC1, but the chip is in the correct way. I didn't think that mattered- does it? 
Thanks,
Brad
Here are the IC numbers:
IC 1
1) 0
2) 0
3) 0
4)8.41
5)0
6)0
7)0
8)8.83

IC 2
1).49
2)0
3)0
4)8.41
5)3.31
6)3.55
7)3.47
8)8.83

IC 3
1)0
2)0
3)0
4)8.41
5)0
6)0
7)0
8)8.83

IC 4
1)1.35
2)4.80
3)0
4)3.79
5)8.40
6)2.56
7)1.44
8)8.83

Hi,
I'm about to build one of these. What's going on with the resistors at R40? I haven't read over the docs yet, but that looks unusual. Is that a mod? If so, what's it do?
Thanks a lot and your pedal looks great,
Brad

I'm starting a 6 in one for a friend to give his son as a gift. I'm concerned about wiring all those grounds and positive wires to the 9v adapter. How can I better do this? I'm mostly concerned about the surface area on the small 9v plug area. I've do done two, but six or more wires have me concerned.

I recently built a multiplex echo and turned the r7 into a 1M pot on the modulation board. This gave me a lot of fine tuning abilities. The modulation sound excellent when it is dialed way back.

Those all look great. Did you make that light plate yourself on the phaser? Excellent touch. The rat is so sleek and sharp. Is that etched with a machine?? Finally, are those leds on the Colossalus oval? They look like it, very nice. My first Colossalus didn't work and I have another board ready to try. You give me hope. I think that seems  to be one of the toughest boards  for people to get working, based on what I've observed here. Good job.

This is the 1776 Britannia circuit that does an excellent Vox in a Box sound. I used to own a great Menatone Top Boost in a Can and this is sort of in that neighborhood, although it's different and I'd build a clone of that if I could find it. This has a white laser decal under the clear powder coat. This pedal has been boxed in a plain white enclosure for a long time. I remember seeing another Britannia with that was finished like this, so I did my best to recreate a Vox AC-30 looking box. The Britannia was one of my first builds and I messed it up, so I ordered another and successfully built it, gaining a lot of confidence back then.

I tried another laser decal and powder clear coat for a Tonebender. I followed some advice given to me in my Multiplex build report and cured the clear coat in a couple stages at lower temps than the product specified. The decal didn't brown and the clear is durable. I like this pedal, it is nice with the fuzz way down and the guitar volume dialed back.

I wrapped up a Multiplex Echo Machine that I tried to do with a Boss pedal aesthetic. I'm learning how to use the GIMP software to make laser labels and then powder coat over them. The basic, old-school Boss pedals had a colorful, fun look and I went for that, including a mem-3 pedal name and Boss-ish font. The colors of the old pedals reminded me of the colored text of the old Atari 2600 cartridges- simple and bold. I wired it up with the modulation board set to be off, wired to delay 1 or wired to delay 2. The modulation is a bit too intense for me. I might look for a way to decrease the warble to something more subtle. Overall, using the pedal is fairly complex. It'll take some experimentation to dial it in because it acts differently in the three modes as well as having two delays. I'm used to a delay having just the delay time, repeat number and mix. The first plan was to fit it into a 1590BB, but it was too tight and I went with the 1790NS. It was my first time using such a big box and the extra space was great. The whole thing had to be painted and then stripped because I left it in the powder coating oven too long and the decal browned. Anyone have experience with this? It looks like about ten minutes is all the decal can take, but the clear powder calls for 15-20 min. Any advice would help. I also like to preheat the enclosure so the powder really takes to the box on the second coat, but the browning decals prevent this. 





I added a 1M pot and a 470k resistor to the modulation for flexibility. it's the first time I turned a resistor into a pot and I really like the results. The modulation is very lush when it is dialed way back.

I made the Madbean Silicon Tonebender.

One of my first builds was the Tonbender and I didn't like it. I thought it was flabby, farty and sounded like a blown speaker. So, I rushed ahead and built other pedals and forgot about it. Yesterday, I opened it up, tightened up the trim levels and experimented. What a great pedal. I had not owned fuzz pedals before and clearly I was not dialing it in. A little goes a long, long way, and the guitar volume knob was a revelation. Usually, I roll it back and there is some impact on tone and dirt level, but with the fuzz it was profound and sounded good going WAY down. It is such a musical, dynamic, touch sensitive sound. Very organic. I also found it turns brittle and unusable with a Sunking buffered in front of it. Anyway, I feel like I gained a great pedal. Now, if I can only get my Collosalus to work.

Hi, thanks. I bought the paper off of ebay: Clear Waterslide Laser Decal Transfer Paper 8.5 x 11, 20 sheets . There was a picture of a cat on their product image.