Messages

I second the Vibramate suggestion. With a Vibramate you can NOT use an import/licesnsed Bigsby (B50/B70), the holes are in different places. Vibramate intentionally does not offer them for imports. I'd like to think they have a good reason behind it, since it'd be so easy to move some screw holes and produce the additional product.

I used a Vibramate B5 (Yes a B5!) on my LP Ultra III and haven't regretted it. Contrary to popular mythos - I experienced additional desirable tone, increased sustain, and no have no tuning issues after installing my Bigsby. I also installed a brass roller bridge vs the stock zinc bridge, installed locking locking tuners, and occasionally lubricate my nut with some Dr.Duck's. I will suggest doing the same if you decide to take the bigsby plunge, as I can use mine and return to pitch without fail. Stewmac and Guitarfetish both sell the roller bridge i reccomend. I've purchased from both and they ship the exact same part, a Wilkinson Brass Rollerbridge. The posts will screw right into your existing bushings on the Wilshire. I only suggest ordering it from StewMac if you're already ordering something from them, it's about $10 cheaper from GuitarFetish. You may curse stringing, I'll suggest a stringray vs the spoiler if you decide to get a tool to assist. There is also the Callaham part that makes the string roller a string through.

The cost between a B5 and a B50 is less than $20. I don't suggest cheaping on the B5 vs the B50 for the small cost savings. That little extra gets a USA made part, better overall construction, handmade vs die cast, and compatibility with aftermarket products. The ease of reselling a guitar can will go down with a Bigsby installed (often you'll not get the money back from the investment). You may also find you just don't like it. If you've drilled - you're screwed (pardon the pun). Another reason for my seconding of the Vibramate suggestion. It's a $50 installation tool that will pay for itself in saved time alone. I took 10 min over a string change to install it. It includes both Metric and STD screws for your bushings so you're covered there. If you decide you like it, and really, really, want to... you can remove the vibramate and drill. If you decide you don't like it - you can remove the entire kit from your guitar and return everything with zero damage to your guitar.

Those are they. AC Pulse/Suppression is their official function. If Mouser put "Toan" instead, I would venture to say they'd sell 50x as many Unless you're a fan of crimped leads, avoid part #'s ending in w, 3, or 9.

I can't find it - and I'll check with AlanP he used to have a shared 3PDT board that was cheap from OSH 2.50 for three and free shipping.
I apparently posted instead of previewed at one point - so there's some editing that went on after you replied. Might be of interest on you.

First off - Welcome to the MAAADNEESS! The Mudbunny is a great first project! Even if it says "Cowboy" it's just due to the number of components involved. You've got a good station, so you shouldn't be a stranger to soldering. Your Led placement should be good if you follow the suggestions from the folks above me. Madbean has a nifty trick he shows off in a build report of the Zero Point SDX (about halfway down) about solder lug pots as board mounted that would be PERFECT in your situation - just lengthen the wires a touch

Oops, they do have the 1290s.  They are also $6.  The price of the BLMS is a dollar cheaper...  I might try out the BLMS...  Not 100% sure; I'm a bit conflicted.  I suppose it doesn't really matter that much...

For the record:
<~~~~ This bitch LOVES his switches, and his enclosures. The 3pdt's are nice and solid. As with ALL multi-pin devices, it would be a good idea to solder one or two then wait a bit so you're not overheating the device. Besides the "jelly" there's also some lubricant inside the switch you don't want to kill as well.

Also, I was wondering...what size soldering tips do people like to work on the pedal pcbs?  I usually use a Weller ST6.  I'm wondering if I should try a slightly larger tip like the ST1 or ST2.

Thoughts?  For reference, here is a link that shows all the tip sizes compatible with my soldering iron/station (Weller WLC100)

As mentioned by Blues Healer - that ST7 (fine point conical) will be perfect.

Other things that have been made mention of that are helpful
Chomosphere recommomends Bluetack/Poster putty as a great holder for things as is this little inexpensive vise from HF. Check your dollar store for the poster adhesive.
And don't use silly putty.

Trust me on this.

Since a TL072 is just a dual opamp of the TL071 single opamp, there's no reason why you couldn't. As you've mentioned - mind the pinout and you'll never notice the difference.

Best that I know of- but if you're just dying to mod it to true bypass and kill the crappy buffer - there's lots of other info out there. The best collection in one place I know of is here. I used to do these mods (and more) all the time back in highschool at my local music store. Socket and experiment. 

Joe Gagan will prob stick in his 2 cents at some point, and it will all be good advise. I have one of his inductors and pots - they are quite sweet. While I haven't finished playing with my weener just yet, It's about ready to go. Need to drill and install the relay switching for the boost(don't ask) Don't get caught up in the mojo components,  stock stuff will work just fine - Mojo-jo-jo is cool -but in the end - only you will know once it gets strapped down on your board.

Im sorry but you guys started it:

http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products_id=122

I know you say you're not making those anymore, but I HAVE to have one. I'd be willing to pay 2-3x the normal cost if you'd just make me one. I won't tell anyone where I got it.

Np clayford ill put you on the waiting list.  Should have one in stock for you in about 15 years.  Please let me know if you die so the next person can have yours.

Im sorry but you guys started it:

http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16&products_id=122

I know you say you're not making those anymore, but I HAVE to have one. I'd be willing to pay 2-3x the normal cost if you'd just make me one. I won't tell anyone where I got it.

Looks great, I would go with Black/Silver knobs Kinda like a Marshall or even this:

I second those knobs

I love your LED grounding method!  Did you use the Vactec, Marcon, or roll your own LDR?

I'm only in the prototyping stage of mine. I suspect you will beat me to market.

Brian - do you have any idea how much Cherry Coke burns when it leaves through your nose?

Two caps and a switch make the mod - .012µf (12nf) and a .022µf (22nf). If the switch is closed the .022µf cap is added in parallel to the .012 for a total .033µf (the stock value)
Since you want wet bass always on - you just want the .012µf cap, and I suggest you socket it.   

He could produce and sell a million units to corksniffers at <whatever price he sets>...if he got off his ass and did it. 

This.

Meaning what exactly?

I'm afraid I might have offended you in my comment... It wasn't the intention. Meaning that your offer to (re)design it is mostly complete. Your Klone circuit is well regarded as one of, if not the best of the Klones. You stopped at rev 3. Can't buy the boards from you(yet) and Haberdasher will not etch. But armed with your document, some copper clad, and FeCl3,  one is ready to attempt the completely impossible task of making a Klone of a pedal that not only contained unobtanium, but also poured goop unicorn tears over it after soldering it together. Others have used your schematic and the other to create their own layout/products as well and offer them for a reasonable price. Your layout and version of the schematic was and still is being used by a more than a few cloners (boutique builders too! Just look around.) to separate fools and their money satisfy the needs of the corksniffers masses that have to have one.

I've heard and played through 2 Klon's^**. The first one was a Silver Klon and I had NO knowledge of the pedal and I damned near dropped my Les Paul when I heard how much the thing was "worth". The second was a KTR It's a decent pedal, but I don't think I'd have ever paid $269 for it, certainly not the $500+ used originals go for. $129? $149? Quite possibly. The TGP crowd will say I'm tone deaf, but these are the people that bought into the Gibson BumbleBee and the Freekish Blues fiascos, defended them fervently, then threw complete temper tantrums once they figured out they'd been "duped".  

As you stated - If Bill wanted it, for little to no cost (because you and probably countless others would design it and sign it away in a heartbeat) - he could have a ready to roll Klon board with SMT and/or thru-hole components, pcb mounted pots, jacks, and power, a buffered/non-buffered switch, with a 7pin molex headered replaceable footswitch, ready to drop in a 1590(B or BB) ala EHX, MXR, etc, all per his design spec. Supposedly by the time we read the article, we can get KTR's again. They aren't available yet, and I honestly don't think they will be. I could be wrong, but honestly why should he? Because once he does the game changes. Everyone will able to make an informed decision about his pedal, and not be awed by the fact they paid a week's worth of salary for it used. Now his one design must not only measure up to, but measure above the Klones, or he fails. There's no biscuit to dangle in front of everyone. There's no "Rockstar" mentality for himself nor the owners of his product. He now to stop the incessant bitching and moaning about how everyone is/was stealing his money. You know the money that he admittedly gives to someone when they need it^***. The value of the Klon market plummets. His assistant, John Perotti, shows him another funny video that he shares trolling the community. What's left? Those circuits he has been working on and perfecting for years.. you know the ones he's been working on without the help of Fenning, whom Bill openly admits is responsible for a good portion of the Klon sounding how it actually does, that he doesn't want to release because we're all a bunch of grabasses waiting to steal his designs and money? They would have to be released and must be spectacular or else ALL of the hype would be GONE.^****

TL/DR Version:
After he packed up his toys and went home, you had the best alternative option to the entire community through 3 separate revisions. Some people decided to abuse the ever loving crap out of it for a profit. You stopped producing them for reasons that are your own. Klon(e) discussion has always managed to get you a little worked up, but you have stopped letting it do that do you recently. Bill is completely aware that his product is: desired, completely marketable, and a self admitted license to print money. Admittedly he's been offered lots of money to make them, and he refuses to do so on a regular basis, thus invalidating his right to bitch. Sure he did allow the KTR out for a bit, (whilst blatantly trolling the community) and then just as quickly stopped production due to reasons he would only vaguely hint at, but won't actually discuss. And those are valuable now too. You have decided to release the SunkingII (rev4). Supposedly he's rereleasing the KTR again too. I think both ideas are awesome.

Does anyone else feel like Premier Guitar also trolled the community, and are also currently watching the page views and therefore advertising dollars roll in?


^*results may vary
^**itsbasicallyjustatubescreamer
^***Or has he just gotten smarter and realized he can just build one and have it sold the cost of building 2-3 of them?
^****Remember the hype is not his making

[AND]

Couple of things worth mentioning...

While there isn't anything protecting the schematic or overall design - if you blatantly ripoff the PCB layout (it is "artwork" and therefore can be protected) then you have your arse handed to you in court. if I took a BMP schematic and used Brian's Mudbunny design to lay it out in Eagle and started selling pcb's - I'd fully expect him to show up at my house, Bat AND subpoena in hand.   

Side note - Big Pharma gets drugs approved every so often for what used to be "off label" use so they can extend their exclusiveness. They also "reformulate" by adding inert ingredients and market them as new/improved products that way as well. Time release, capsule vs tablet, all these things can be used to protect the drug, cause there's not exactly any money in the cure.