Messages

[will]

I did. Since i subscribed to the topic I saw when you responded. I didn't reply immediately and I didn't see you had edited it until after I posted the info - but it's good to have for someone else right?
I'm not aware of a demo that compares the two, I can only tell you that I have NEVER replaced the input buffer once it was out. If you want to demo for yourself the effect the wah has on your signal chain, the easiest way is to hook it into a simple bypass looper It's about halfway down the page. Guitar in -> send -> Wah Input ->wah output-> return -> Out to amp. First with the wah OFF, simply compare the difference between the wah being in the signal path or out of it. While you're at it stuff it into a 1590a and use it for your older beloved effects. Heck you can use it as your Wah bypass if you prefer.

There is a "simpler" way to do a bypass mod, I don't like it as much because it leaves the buffer IN but at least it's only there when the effect is on.
You will need to cut the trace between the input tip and C9 in the red area pictured as pictured.


Now you'll add your wires TO the components. I've updated my previous picture below, pretend the components are there. The ground location doesn't change, just solder it to the south leg of R14 and your new Effect input wire gets soldered to the north leg of C9.


This is a very clean way of wiring a wah with the 3PDT if you want an LED. I can not take credit for it, I just had it on my harddrive at home.
Power for the LED comes from the north leg of D1, and you will need to lubricate the shell and drill bit when you drill. WD40 is not lubricant. 3in1 or a touch of motor oil will suffice.


If you want a deeper look into why what does wah - look at R.G's excellent article on the Wah

You are correct in that a 25k would suit you just fine. Trimmers - They aren't all spaced the same - there are different ones. Typically Madbean boards are setup for 3362P trimmers. You can find them readily at Mouser or Tayda Steve stocks a similar item SKU1015that will fit pin spacing wise, but will be a bit larger of a body and you might need to put it on the opposite side of the board depending on the project.
I'm not familiar with his other trimmers, but here's a very cool thing about Smallbear.- email him. Tell him you're working on X project and need to know Y - You will get an answer, usually from him, always with the right info and always complete honesty!

Looks like he's using Jack Orman's LED Pop reducer schematic. I don't know why a 22k resistor is being used That's a 2k2 resistor I missed the decimal.
looks like your lugs will be going |  |  | not — — — right? Overall a nice idea, but yeah try and get your solder pads on a 2.54mm (0.1") pitch for ease of use and possible header usage. Take a look at aballen's 3PDT board for an idea of what is meant. Love the extra grounds and +9v's idea. With all the extra space in the bottom right corner, maybe you can get those resistors laying flat rather than standing? Not putting anything down by any stretch, I couldn't do any better.

Love the spinal tap reference!

The sustain, listen to it.

Willy - I do love rondo - They made my 7 the way I wanted it. They don't offer mine in a 25 1/4" scale very often and when they do it's usually with a stop tailpiece. I HAD to have a floyd rose - but didn't want the 27" scale - They got me one. And I blocked the floyd 3 months later.

[is]

Ahh... That's because you haven't created it yet! For true bypass you'll need to remove that hideous buffer circuit and add two wires.

Locate and remove R14, Q3, C9, C10, R16, R13. I've marked them with red X's in the picture
Add a wire for ground at the south of R14 (black)
Effect in is now at Pin1 (left most) of q3. Add a different color wire here (Red)
Wire up a Carling 316PP DPDT or a Dunlop ECB035 (The ECB555 is different!) as follows. Joe Gagan had a bunch for sale you might check with him. You can use a 3PDT/2PDT that is traditionally used for effect pedals, but you may need to remove the bottom nut to make it work, and the switching "feel" will be entirely different. So people like it, others hate it.   
The colors assume you have the harness have followed the color schema from Dunlop and my suggested colors . If not you'll need to translate. Only solder the connection between SW1 and SW6 at SW6 at this point, since we're going to stuff a wire in SW1 as well.

Code Select Expand


GRN 1\  4 BLK
VIO 2 \ 5 RED
BLU 3  \6 Pin1



SW1 - Main In - Green
SW2 - Main Out - Violet
SW3 - Effect out - Blue
SW4 - Ground - Black (South of R14)
SW5 - Effect Input - Red (Pin1 of Q3)
SW6 - Jumper to SW1

A popular mod set:
As always, socketing is encouraged.
Gain
R9 Replace 390Ω with 330Ω
You can go lower and increasing your gain (and dirt) as you do, or you could even stick a jumper in. 
As Madbean points out - this results in a very bad, filthy, dirty wah that needs to be punished.

Q/Mid Shape
R1 Replace 1k5 with 1k7 or 1k8 (You can go higher but it gets interactive with the Vocal Mod)

Vocal
R5 Replace 33k with 68K

Sweep Cap
C5 (above Q2) - It should be a 10n. 15n and 22n are also popular choices. 22n would be the Jimi/Zack settings. Bass wah would see a 68nf here.

You'll want to adjust the pot sweep to your liking by making adjustments to the rack tension and pot gear. For the sake of your pot, do not set up the treadle so that it will make the pot bottom out at either heel or toe. I've already replaced 2 wah pots for customers this year and it's only the beginning of Feb. 
There are other mods you can do - removal of the buffer and changing those three Resistors seems to be the most popular mod I do to wahs. Dunlop should have figured this all out by now, but I'm happy they haven't as each one I do puts money in my pocket

This is all from memory on my lunch break and not my workbench. As such errors could have been made. Caveat emptor.

Brian - I'm sorry. I couldn't resist.

Mark has a vero - I dunno about a ready to go PCB - but there's an eagle schematic and a couple of etching layouts over at FSB on the RAH trace topic. Haberdasher might be able to set you up with an etched board from the artwork at FSB.

Had time between classes - figured I'd come home rather than sit around campus for almost 2 hours ( I live 5 min away )
From the left with the headers pointing up or "north" if you choose
This is a rev H board, but the pinout is the same, yes it's missing a few components - it's a sacrificial board.

I am labeling the switch as such:

Code Select Expand

3    1
     2
1 - Black -9v Battery (Ground)
2 - Red +9v Battery (Positive)
3 - Black Pot CCW (Pot1)
4 - Green Switch 3 (Main in)
5 - Yellow Pot Wiper (Pot2)
6 - Blue Circuit Output - Connects to switch 1 then Pot CW (Pot3)
7 - Violet Main Out (Switch 2)
8 - N/C

Pics are attached - pardon my messiness, I was eating dinner while I traced.

I have a harness at home I can snap a shot of and you can trace out from there. Headed to class in a bit - but can get you after we get out of class at 9:45pm(EST)

Enjoy! And happy April 1, 2006!

Noticing that your Son is building with you - I'd say order the greenbean or the Nanodriver and get busy.

You can find those nanodrivers here and at $10 for a set of three it's a great deal. Build one - socket one - and surprise a friend with the other! Brian's Green Bean board adds a few options as well and as such "isn't quite Y(et).A(nother).T(ube).S(creamer)." I quite like it. You might too!

As Jimilee mentioned the vero of the TS is quite simple and easy to follow.  Mark's tagboardeffects site has over 220 layouts for overdrive alone. Many of them are based in some fashion or another on the TS because a lot of OD's are based on the TS.  Some are rather simple and others are quite complexVeroboard is cheap enough on Amazon, and you can find OD's and TS's in any colour you like.

Oh and remember that the difference between a TS808 and a TS9 is 2 resistors!

This guy right here.


Naw in all seriousness - it's mostly in the hands. All the gear in the world won't make a lick of difference if you don't know how to play. Compare Jon's rig and mine, now get out your wallet and I'll bet $20 you Jon sounds just like Jon if he played mine. Equipment is a factor, but not the only one. It does make a difference though,  between my pedal board and that Jet City - I do sound a lot better than I ever did with the Line6 150HD, and that sounds loads better than the Acoustic G20 that sets on my bench.




edit reason: Incomplete thought

"We will never give up, never surrender, whatever the cost may be."

Jacob

"By Grabthar's hammer, the box of fail shall be avenged!"

First off, he can send off rude emails for free so why should he pay someone. Especially when he can void warranties for having a 3rd party replace a 3PDT switch, then charge $60/hr for a bench fee and $15 to replace the 3PDT before he'll even start working on the other problems at $60/hr

(edit: reworded to make it clearer that I wasn't being snarky to das234)