Messages

The 40 drawer cabinet is pretty typical HF low quality.  I find them entirely adequate for sorting duty though.

Yup they're drawers. They work for a single value of a component. You can label the drawers if you're careful, and even get a second oddball value if you use a baggie. If I were making a living - I wouldn't use them. I'd get the Arko Mils 64 and the complimentary types you find on the page.

If I order something I don't have, I get a good qty of it. If I'm low, I order more. It's like stocking a kitchen with ingredients. If you have all the ingredients on hand, you can make anything you want.

Agreed - 5 bucks for $25 of a cap or 12 for $100. If it's a standard value - I bulk it out as I need it. I'm set on 100n's between my MLC's and the ECQ-V's I got from Chromosphere. If it's an odd ball I'll order 10 for the break and call it a day.

And I can't recommend enough the this model form Circuit Specialists if you're looking for an upgrade and are in the states. For PCB work, I'll also recommend as myself and others have before, for any a good Conical Tip. This one will get hot enough to work on the lead free solder you run into on repair jobs, can heat up a ground plane like no other. I have managed to lift a trace on 2 boards with it. One was Vero the other a MB board, and both were overworked. I don't think you should ask any pad or trace to stand up to 4 or more reworks.

   

That one doesnt have a sw pad on it per the schematic, but the LED has +V and a 4k7 resistor on it. So you'll want Anode(+) wired there and Cathode(-) wired to the switch as you described.

a couple of ways to remember which is what.
If its fat and its flat, its cat(hode)
CCD -> Cathode Current Drains.

I've not used one - but it could be useful. I've not ever found a need for selectable inductors, but hey you might like it. It's an OSHPark board - and a mini Alpha 2p4t rotary switch. How they're getting "4 sounds" L1, L2, L1->L2, L2->L1. Its a fair price for the board and switch. If you dont like it you can always replace it with a 1P6T from Smallbear, etch up the board he has on there for caps and make a variable sweep cap wah. Go from 6n8, 10n(Stock), 12n (Joe B.), 15n, 22n(Jimi,Zack), 68n(Bass)

breakout your calipers.
http://www.mouser.com/Electromechanical/Knobs-Dials/_/N-5g22?P=1z0z2f1Z1z0jm4cZ1yxc8gf

5 years is outstanding! Congrats on that! All your points sound fantastic..15 new designs to choose from..geez! What about some MBP t shirts?

I think a Madbean T-shirt would be most excellent. It would be an honor to wear it.
I could be picking my guitar with my Madbean pick, playing through my Madbean pedal while wearing my Madbean t-shirt. Get a Madbean coffee cup and life will be sweet. 

And we could be wearing a Madbean hat/skullcap , Madbean socks, and using a Madbean sweatband for muting our strings. Seriously though - I'd buy the Tshirt, skullcap/toboggan, and the sweatband (wrist size).

If you have the input (JI?) on the left and the output on the right(JO) you are correct. I will second the idea of getting the Effect in/out and power/ground setup so it's one run up, without a bunch of crossed wires.
Effect In - Ground - Effect Out - +9V Most boards have worked with all have the schema for In/Ground/Out and it's hit or miss as to +9 being to the left, right, or above.

It's even 500k, and this ProLine for $5.99 looks suspiciously just like a CTS as well.

I'll second Leevibe's HF storage Bins. I use a couple of 41 Drawer Units a couple of Storage Flats from Harbor Freight and a couple of Stack-On 36 Drawer Units from Lowes. I like the Stack-On ones as they're a little sturdier, but for the price I have a VERY hard time justifying the extra $5 over the HF ones, especially since they aren't the nice hard crystal clear plastic like they show in the pictures. They now come with the milky flexible plastic, just like the ones from HF. I do like the larger drawers at the bottom of them for housing projects that are in progress, upcoming PCB's to populate, switches, or a stash of premade boards. Since I had to purchase a bunch of 1/8w size components , I will be getting another pair of the 41 Drawer units form HF and one of these 18 Drawer Units since it is all large drawers. Condense all of the large drawers into one unit and recycle the Stack-On's to the wife for her Craft materials.  Least I can do since she handed down her rotary tool to me when she got a new Dremel kit for the holidays. 
I have some NDA work on the bench right now that precludes me from snapping a shot of it. These will give you an idea

Agreed - you can walk into Guitar Center and get a Fender with tone cap for 7.95. An AllParts Alpha for $5.95.

Yeah - It would be great to know which side of the board we're looking at. Input on the left side Output on the right would save you from crossing wires.

Mac Walker over at DIYSB had something similar. 48 shipped for 4 boxes US.

End of last month he posted here that they're now 5 for $50, unfortunately only to continental US, but i managed to get four before the shipping embargo and they are really nice, a flat roomy wedge.

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=13616.0

There is another US only option on ebay for steel enclosures, search there under Superfuzz.

I think that's someone that bought the 10 pack and is trying to split them off.

Mac Walker over at DIYSB had something similar. 48 shipped for 4 boxes US.

I had one bad and only one experience with them. After 2 weeks of no updates I emailed. A week later the replied, "Big Sale. More orders than anticipated. Hope you understand." No apology, no ETA. I canceled. 

I'm hazzarding a guess at a momentary switch from C2 right leg to ground. My other thought was right leg of C9 to ground. I could of course be completely mistaken. These are starting points.

I again am guessing based off of Jon's info provided here. I feel strongly for the C2 but could be entirely wrong.