Messages

http://www.madbeanpedals.com/tutorials/downloads/StandardWiring_MBP.pdf

Do you have  the battery snap hooked to the input ring like this? so that when you plug in the 9v, the battery doesnt get wasted.

Almost - the power jack if wired correctly prevents the battery from being wasted when a 9v power supply is used. The wiring you pointed to prevents the battery from being drained input cable being inserted. Much better than what I had up there. Good catch!

I think? This thing is (almost)ready for war! I like it. I prefer cheaper parts than he's chosen here but man it's nice.

Yup - and damn.
Dale  mil-spec resistors
Wima box caps
Sprague caps
milled sockets
Highend replacement for the tl062...

And none of us managed to use sockets on the trannys when we built them. Get a replacement MN3101 and she should fire right up!

["Let's stop for a second and figure out something, What power scheme and jack are you using?"]

Ok - the +1ing of a positive tip and the mention of a pedal that uses AC power has me saying,
"Let's stop for a second and figure out something, What power scheme and jack are you using?"

9v DC? The standard knobikon style input power jack with a BOSS style 2.1mm with a negative center pin connection?
Looks like this?



All of the Em Drive circuits I know of should use this wiring method.
I really can't think of a reason you would wire it differently. If you're going to use a so called "positive ground" effect, the best practice would be a charge pump inside the enclosure and/or a battery unless you have a rather expensive isolated power supply, and even then building it with a charge pump ensures "standard" 9v (negative center pin) Boss style power supplies can power your pedal. These are so common even Dunlop switched over to them.


So check your power connection and if at all possible provide a link to your build documentation, and sharp clear pictures of your board (front and back) and your wiring.

Pardon my copy pasta - I'm at school not at home where I could grab pics.

remove incorrect wiring scheme

Oh and because I'm a complete moron and didn't mention these things before (I was fixated on getting you sorted) -
In no particular order:

WELCOME TO THE FORUM!
Congrats on getting together a rather complicated build with what appears to be a *very* easily made mistake
Thank you, for using the search function!
Welcome to the madness that is pedal building!
Thank you, for using the search function!

That said, Blk to ground and Red as a "probe" is the correct method - but I couldn't duplicate your voltage on pin4 unless I did Red on +9v and Blk as the probe. I did quick check when I found the initial resistor was wrong and didn't see anything others, except the ones I mentioned. That doesn't mean I've caught them all either - My silly butt shunted the entire signal to ground on my build via R1. My suggestion to check all of your 47 value resistors was a good precautionary step given the apparent swap, and me checking it over on a 14" laptop screen. Your cap values looked good aside from what I assume are the Monte Allum mods. I'm not familiar with Him or his mods, but that means nothing.

http://www.digikey.com/us/en/mkt/calculators/4-band-resistors.html
A great tool for checking by color code, while there are many who can remember all this stuff by heart (and I applaud them) I can not and rely on tools and tricks. This is also a great piece of freeware - and I did donate.
http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/download.php?source=ea_calc_ad#assistant

If you want a quick check - look at this picture and verify your board against it.
You'll need to IGNORE the 0R resistor at R1 - that was my mistake when I made mine.
The pork barrel prehaps much like a Dr.Boogie seems to have become a right of passage build for many.

If you click it you'll go to Imgur click it again at imgur you'll get a very nice re sizable one.

[R6 R9 and R8 are HIGHLY suspect]

I'm looking at your pictures and seeing these color codes - They seem to be incorrect.
R6 R9 and R8 are HIGHLY suspect - Yellow Violet Red Gold is 4k7 not 47k Yellow Violet Orange Gold
R12 is HIGHLY suspect - Yellow Violet Yellow Red  is 470K not 470R  which should be Yellow Violet Brown Red
R27 is also Highly suspect - Yellow Violet Red Gold is 4k7 not 47k which is Yellow Violet Orange Gold


I suggest you might go through and double check all of your resistors especially your 47 value resistors - they seem to be the problem spot. It's a VERY easy mistake looks like a bag or drawer got mixed up. Some of us are how to say it delicately... "retentive" and measure each resistor as we place them to verify. 

After doing all that - can you repost pics?
can you replace the OP2134 with a JRC4558 ? I know the OP is supposed to be the superior device - I'm asking to swap it out with a completely different device to eliminate the possibility of both of your chips being "bad"

Question - are you putting + lead on +9v and - lead on pin
or + lead on chip and - lead at ground?
IE Red at +9v and black at IC1-4 you get 9.37v
or Red at IC1-4 and black at GND you get 9.37v

I'd just sand the enclosure then with some 160 or 220 and up to get rid of the decal you'll need to anyway to get it ready to take paint etc. Soaking in some paint thinner before sanding might not be a bad idea. Acetone works but it's a sledgehammer for a finishing nail.

R1 D4 - omit is correct no jumper needed.

I can't see them - but I'll assume you've double checked your tant cap polarities.
I assume you have your shunts for the chip selection going Left-Right not North-South
I'll double check my build here in a few re this:
You have + voltage at IC2-4... That's a negative pin. Can you double check that?
Looks like you copied my excel sheet for voltages - FYI those are vias not testpoints, I didn't know any better at the time.

Sounds like the first place to start is your 9v connections. Center pin is Ground/Neg, with the sleeve being +9v/Positive. If you're using them backwards, you're putting +9v on every ground connection you have and that would explain your loss of sound with connection of battery or PS. Depending on the circuit - you might need to replace some parts due to this.

As has been already mentioned, clear sharp pics of the front and back of the board and your wiring will assist in troubleshooting.

The inductor and it's traces are the first place to start looking, and it depends on which pins are continuous and which ones aren't. They usually have continuity in matching pairs
1 - 2
3 - 4

1&2 have continuity as well as 3&4
or
1&3 and 2&4

Depending on which inductor you have - you might need to rotate it 90° to get some "wah"

some clear, sharp pics of the front and back of the board would be helpful. Also - you did check your trannys right?

I assume you put some tape on the back of the pots to prevent shorting?

Generally, if it doesn't fire up within five minutes of troubleshooting after a build, I put it in the "fix later box" and move onto another circuit.

I usually unplug it and then insert the ICs and or trannies. Usually works after that! :-D

Word

Yup - did this on a Klone buffer I popped into my board i/o box. Boxed it up and took it to practice sans ic. Rather than drive 25 min home - I went to Radio Shack up the street and paid $2.50 for a TL082. thank god I socket.

Weller and Hakko are kind of "the" standard. The one I recommended came with a substantial vouch, or I'd have never gotten it. There is nothing wrong with a pen type, and benefits to both. A station and a guitar aren't that great to work with, the pen unit with a screwdriver/Chisel tip and a guitar is. Working on a PCB - I'd rather have the station. If I could only have one - it'd be a hard choice.